new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

Basically this is up to me.
If I can teach the guy my magic touch throttle technique then he should be ok even if it is the

Aluminum cast dropouts will break!

It is a skill like a video game thing.
Careful use of a throttle can succeed to avoid a catastrophic failure.
Those cheap worse case scenario forks could work.
But if possible to upgrade then who not ?
Thanks. LC. out.

As I have insisted multiple times ...
Thumb throttles are OK ... only if you have a wimp ass motor and are stuck In WOT mode.
For reasonable speed regulation a twist throttle is needed, for precision and control a half twist throttle is advised!

Cast aluminum dropouts are comparatively brittle, being comprised of a crystalline structure.
Forged aluminum dropouts are much more durable having had crystals stretched and melded into each other.
How to identify?
Forged aluminum dropouts are typically welded onto the fork, rather than molded with it.

 

[calab]

I have always used thumb throttles, I prefer them but I never used anything else.
Maybe I should order some up and give it a try, they are sure cheap enough.
Domino and Magura throttles seem to be popular, but like anything a good keyword search is invaluable.
But yes I have heard people talk about throttles being really sensitive and hard to tame for high powered systems.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=114469&p=1692569&hilit=magura+throttle#p1692569

Everything will have to be repeated in a month or twos time anyway so it could be the meta-verse or A.I. testing grounds.

Here is the newest post about suspension forks and front hubs, broke a suspension fork with 1kw.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=115198&p=1703689#p1703689

 

[DrkAngel]

Twist throttles are the same function and precision as the typical motorcycle throttle.
The half twist has the advantage of stable support under acceleration and allows a mere grip to maintain speed rather than an awkward sustained twist.

Lots of varieties, including with key lock and/or volt meter.


The Magura throttle is not compatible with standard controllers.

 

[latecurtis]

Twist throttles are the same function and precision as the typical motorcycle throttle.
The half twist has the advantage of stable support under acceleration and allows a mere grip to maintain speed rather than an awkward sustained twist.

Lots of varieties, including with key lock and/or volt meter.

I don't like them. Period.

I took pictures.

If I could get a 26" steel fork that will fit then I could have front brakes.

I thought it was 27.5" but looks like 700c as the rear wheel don't fit. I have a 700c rear wheel in storage that will fit.



Not sure what the forks are , cast aluminum or forged. It is why I took pictures. If they are cast I will need steel or forged forks that will fit. I either need to order them or pick them up at a bike shop if they have them.

I am dealing with a very impatient person so will need this done A.S.A.P


I found this.

Spinner Odesa AC 700c Forks

Spinner Odesa AC 700c Forks
Features:
- A basic 700c replacement trekking fork

- 63mm of travel, non adjustable coil damping system

- 25.4mm steel stanchions and forged alloy crown

- Available in 1" and 1-1/8" (threaded and threadless)

- Threaded forks have 265mm steerers with 1 1/2" of threading

It says on the fork Spinner Odessa ACS. Not sure if they are the original fork.



The gold on the fork does not match anything on the bike ?????.

If they are forged aluminum then they should work right ????

I do not want to be responsible for someone getting hurt.

OK.

I just talked to John and he is ok with 26" steel forks for front brakes. That is what I want to do. I want to do it right. I know the SLA batteries might be an eye sore but they are NOT going anywhere. I spent two days building those brackets.

I could give a rats ass how it looks. I want it to work and be safe. Pedal gears , brakes and no issues with the forks.



Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

Takes you a very long time to get the simplest of anything done so I can understand why your family member is wanting it done right away.
Go to your local bicycle store and get a fork, or get one on Amazon, its really that simple.
Do not buy the fork with disk mounts and not have the v-brake mounts you require, or need a 1-1/8" when you bought a 1".
I love the motivation your pictures give me with reminding me to clean and organize my garage.
The good thing about having 26" wheels, is every bicycle I ever found is 26"
Bungee cord is a nice touch, I am more of a Gorilla Tape kind of guy myself, and its got to be black Gorilla Tape.
Having a 700 rear wheel and a 26 front wheel is just personal preference, I have been doing that now for years but I dont ride fast with front hub and mismatched wheel sized. Currently 700 rear, 26 front with hub, before it was 19" motorcycle rim laced to hub with big ass knobby tires and a 26" fat rear which is 29" = 700 rear.

I could give a rats ass how it looks.

Well that is obvious, but who cares as long as its being used and was built safely. I am quite surprised that your family member wants that big a battery, but however you can get rid of what you got the better and move on up to better and brighter things then dealing with substandard batteries.

 

[Chalo]

If they are forged aluminum then they should work right ????

They are not forged. Those fork lowers are cast aluminum, no doubt. You will break them by using a front hub motor. It is technically possible to construct torque arms that will protect a fork like that, but I don't think it's possible for you to make them.

Also, the suspension action will lock out when the motor is pulling.

The best fork for this project is a steel 29er disc fork (if you kept the disc brake that came with the wheel), or a suspension corrected steel 26" cantilever brake fork. No suspension.

 

[calab]

For a front hub motor ebike
A rigid fork is needed.
A suspension fork is not needed.

Remember
The simpler the better.

If you can find a fork with both disk caliper mounts and v-brake mounts both on the same fork would be better to get if the price isnt that much difference as there are more possibilities later on when swapping that fork to something else.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

What you both are saying makes a lot of sense. I remember about a year or less ago snapping the dropouts on the Currie with a Bafang hub motor

I will need to get a steel fork than as quick as possible. I might have to install the rear 500W e bikeling hub motor from the Giant roam and just live with the front. John has been waiting > 2 years for an e bike. I basically ran out of time.

The best fork for this project is a steel 29er disc fork (if you kept the disc brake that came with the wheel), or a suspension corrected steel 26" cantilever brake fork. No suspension.

The Bafang is 26" so if a 26" steel fork will fit then I can install a front brake. If I cant get it accomplished in a couple days then I will have to give up my 26" e bikeling 500W motor.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Yea.

I just did a search on geared hub motors.

I think it was DA. that got me hooked on the e bikeling and have run them a lot over the years. Easy Street was my first and 700c and 500W. It sports a 22 amp controller. It is a notch above the 350W bafangs with 17 or 18 amp controllers.

I found some new e bikeling motors on e bay and am very confused on the specifications. Especially torque. They have a 750W geared and 1,200 and 1,500W direct drive.

Here are the specifications in question.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274876503252?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3fffea94d4%3Ag%3A8I0AAOSw8KBhHo0-&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSlHY%252FYTip4QFVjNQrCEJt6lBG2GASWKXt0puF%252Fgw7%252F8hUeXgw9OLg3PImDjsYjE2Z6x4moL9Zjzl8T4GBoPF8iQkXagUZf3uuEbdc7DCfdH4lupjQ3SgQZJ0xCVwqG%252FSJbiNy%252F13CwZQJIIS9XVN85GESSXAmEG0GOoNcJ%252B0xoq8ikJIs3AuRFEBwJ7LyxO7CLnUNwQj3h%252BoGRbdj4N4WGMngd8z5MIzonrEWr9OHVT%252FqneqcdHYlROXCAa7IxTLg9xO%252B%252F0Bj7wug9mRijFydSJtesa5gISe7SSb87slHSEXOVhSExWAMkhHIiHJalgr0M5%252FstrL1VDiBgeY9q4ZR4ZVm6Wop%252BP0N9es5cK0jpd4%252BOi0CyI7aGRJ049fN1wxqjL5xZAuTz5RlMZWhIa368Od2LD5zcwv4azpsPeOmNcsR%252FCZNrgwGrZ2%252Bw1RpYJjgV%252BhQHcXdBb38TEtjFgKs2GFZbnYBaoM5JuvSxeJSHhwq1vKmy09rxhHA9MZEDzsO4f7AwOcgOVoGUlH9ZjeLZ%252B78iQ1bMHFm6AYuADx2kG8on5X8nN6Svl8BzkgWlC6ihbQrs5N%252Fm%252B0L%252BET4sXu3lwZcGnRHOzv910aJoEfArdpHLFzTPAjIMW6aBBckMDTbhjzIG9rF5IfYrSxH1hNA5Bnkhtmt%252FcwfvpklXnLbbj4N2vdLmoRayN%252F4Cv9v8MWgQHRt1HFlCOF%252B%252Ff9Td2GOJx%252BlJJdcsidS7CdGa8fG%252FC1ldPsK0WZ5INk6MRLHPdu6JsfEggdzyB2i4r5hQF2fThv2XXRuV5aVQSAk8tBEJ8pXWkcJSejZ2Fqibes7XPDgCmQvTXkQ1zwP3O%252F0v1NvZw%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBM0L-O2udf&LH_ItemCondition=3

750W geared.





https://www.ebay.com/itm/144092609324?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110002%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D237209%26meid%3De4ec8afbcb314adb83cdb19893561e73%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D274876503252%26itm%3D144092609324%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2WithMLRv3&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A144092609324e4ec8afbcb314adb83cdb19893561e73%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACAKIfs%252B9eNY3slwX9L%252F66dTUpp6gKR7y9G2xFUK4Nqnjfmwg4YV7vWAbxHt996tsoVbIW4U9GsQYOE7UaXEYe5xMDPQrurm0uuAhRkFFI9rjRqepdzID6i2z4k%252FxxMHIkK4gBD4iN8jKtvml3fSZcKsBcMEkAlvzPyFozXH1GVQsKg1b%252BGhe58Lq6%252BLy3cul38wq6mPqXug0yMF%252FTsyfFoMGjrwn1UEZWWXgWviS8XMZ1nVKn7ZMUFS7pwa8lAdB7X38V5WSWEwHHwh1fY1enkqLtekPn%252FxDmf5NXes8AocQrxgzuwRh8ZI6iwDxBCthyILGs2SDhu1Ssjd9KF4OeI4eqQi3jIGHzTMMZE8d6x8IJOjLMAb9ko3ZO%252BxBFfErHsXCoogmyujSFlOHMe4wWz6VDq0XBDdruft3cdkVe10tVsu7Z6YZJoAgLqUMg%252BlUFyil1x06vuB%252BTLa1EGSVPTxZ8zSzNpLbd4Sure4zFQGbozQgLbKDT2eD4cn%252BJi21s0aazfcOI874YyCgI%252BME4yy17NYrhOHji4bNzddm2vqASGXb%252FUpNQFRFGPpQjKsEsot4xQvK5Uy%252BItF19D8%252Ba3riuXeRY3EWkHPxo0Ab%252BpBB2Jxjv99eXsXAmdX%252FDIbfGpvTuTL9jYZTNqHLJMYBEMHOZH4jvplG%252BCLjQAFad2%252FSQ%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

1,200W direct drive.




https://www.ebay.com/itm/274849093804?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110002%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D237209%26meid%3Daccfe68118fd4e67ab808cd42557fe70%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D144092609324%26itm%3D274849093804%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2WithMLRv3&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A274849093804accfe68118fd4e67ab808cd42557fe70%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACAPxY1JHzyaHk228AD6mH5XyTSRtTTMsU6kBmFt0hYBUmcYRUqiFSNYY276C3XK%252FA9nQQhlksBx4BrwQ4l5hTU1hQvX93mPe2c1n0r%252BTAxMx3XzLkCMUBxOmLwn9v2Njs%252FHl7BMiPofDa0WrGKI%252BRIrAS70F%252FJj2QItPq0DZHlxDIo3dNvbsjtLO%252Bg1idFL%252BoEKlxyKMBioNohndfXcDCpZJKynuEEjoiVJ3FzbAT0sgi1RZgI1kTQDVzdtYvXS%252BvVmVusR9hUaN10lALDP8i9AeQx22vV7j2%252F1%252BEtm%252FmuQr2iE2TQ%252Bp%252BnULOmXBp6%252BIv5rLv%252Bu6XnmSx8i0ayXngvfhrwg1%252BM7JQ2uJhgsEGEgpQgqIiOIF5vYlxvaXak8lIcI5Qz8bK4B1AFBe4lEBw8S2TOI52JZkUaGJVdZCLMpwOjZOyglNp2LjTnM%252FWbFMmJyvu%252BhAvZetOrlHZpPLmaYFZ2MehdUQ2Hxuk%252FDvV5qrB4IeQ8uzjG5neIPJOVVqo60Y1cepKDc8sO8P4gFTmstYI553ufAuo847d51sX%252FeRSuRI6WczEv%252ByqFTT3dGiZVw8VlFAy%252Ft8tMkH2ziQ5irajEdmbt3VpslbPnQQ%252FeUH5JBs1lABhv4gXZRZAXYNAG92p8FfjaoS0ofEGL%252B%252FgC4kkYbOz1eOjPkGWK%252FmuRK7I%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

1,500W direct drive,






Yea. How is a 750W geared 50 Nm The 1,200W is only 30 Nm and the 1,500W 40 Nm.



How is that possible. I know geared hub motors are high torque and efficient but more torque than a 1,200W direct drive and a 1,500W direct drive.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

Yea. How is a 750W geared 50 Nm The 1,200W is only 30 Nm and the 1,500W 40 Nm.



How is that possible. I know geared hub motors are high torque and efficient but more torque than a 1,200W direct drive and a 1,500W direct drive.

Please let me know.

Power is torque times RPM. If the more powerful motors have lower torque, they have much higher RPM at that amount of torque.

That's how toy airplane motors rack up such impressive power figures-- uselessly high RPM times not very much torque.

I don't assume the specs you linked are accurate, but that's how power and torque work.

 

[Ianhill]

Work done is torque × rpm over time, gearing can increase the torque and lower the rpm but the same amount of work over time can be done.

Slowing a system down with Gearing so the torque figure is large is possible but to get work done it takes longer but heavier load can be moved other end of the scale is gear up reach very high rpm with low torque so only a small amount of weight can be moved but its fast

A 10w lego motor can lift a 100kg weight it needs gearing down and the amount of time to move that object 1 metre or so can take over an hour so we add more power to the system to give us an acceptable amount of time / speed to complete the task

Theres also balancing a load with an oppsing load so its like a seesaw at tipping point using that method its possible to turn hundreds of tons with less than 3000w enough to boil a kettle.

 

[latecurtis]

OH.

OK.

Thanks for clearing that up.

So 260 rpm at 50 Nm = 750W ?

430 rpm at 30 Nm = 1,200W ?

560 rpm at 40 Nm = 1,500W

I just want to see if their specifications make sense.

Also speed for 260 rpm , 430 rpm and 560 rpm - 700c wheel ?

John wants pedal and I want it safer so swapping the rear - 500W - e bikeling motor on the back of the Giant Roam for the front Bafang. I could care less about pedal.

The Giant still has the e bikeling 700c - 500W front motor. I never used it on that fork. It was on the front of the 700c Giant Cypress Hybrid frame in storage now.

I hope the Giant Roam is not cast. I plan on two separate throttles. The right side will power the rear Bafang to 18 to 20 mph solo. Then will gradually ease into the rear on the left side for a higher speed. Then I can let off the rear on flat as the 700C e bikeling motor is geared higher than the 26" Bafang I think.

If I am going up a hill as soon as I hear the front motor struggle I can kick the rear Bafang for a little help. I wanted pedal assist also but can order that 750W - geared e bikeling motor later on this summer.

Problem solved. John will have the stock 700c wheel back on the front then with a front brake. No rear.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

with a front brake. No rear.

Well, at least there will be one good brake, the front brake is better then only a rear brake.

 

[DrkAngel]

I would recommend basic functionality and safety ...
No rear brakes? ... !

I know I once said I might go without rear brakes ... but that was when powered by a non-freewheel gear reduction motor.
Which would provide reasonable deceleration and sustainable restraint on long descents.

 

[Chalo]

So 260 rpm at 50 Nm = 750W ?

430 rpm at 30 Nm = 1,200W ?

560 rpm at 40 Nm = 1,500W

That's not how the math works, but you're moving in the right direction.

Also, those torque figures are probably the maximum torque when using the intended controller, but not the torque at the maximum power RPM. For instance 750W output at 50Nm of torque implies 143 RPM. But that hub probably makes 750 W at a higher RPM, with less than maximum torque. You'd need a power-torque-speed--efficiency chart to figure out the specifics for any given motor.

Here, play with this calculator:
https://binsfeld.com/power-torque-speed-conversion-calculator/

 

[latecurtis]

The three 7.5 Ah - SLAs are gone. I think they are in Florida as I gave Mike a bike (Johns brother) and the old 48V Unite motor and some wheels and stuff about 18 months ago I think. He helped me move my stuff from NY back in 2020.

John found the old hoverboard packs. The two 10S - 2P - SONA packs and three Samsung packs. All in parallel with a 1.5 amp 10S - 42V charger. They only have about 50% capacity I think.

They are out in the van with the new 13S - 7P - 20 Ah lion pack. I wont charge them in here. I guess John is getting the SLAs as I built racks in his frame to mount them.

Until I get a solar kit and figure out how to install it so it cant be stolen those lion packs are useless.

I got the 12 /15S - LIFE packs up here and the 20S - LTOs in storage. I can charge them at storage if it is not raining with an extension cord and 900W 54.6V charger. I really don't know if a 50 foot cord would work. I think a 25 foot cord would be better but not sure if there is one. The outside outlet is about 20 feet from my unit.

I prefer LIFE or LTO over lion because they charge < 1 hour vs overnight or > 6 hours. The trade off is heavier and bulky packs but the fact they are safe and can charge anywhere tips the scale in their favor. That is just my opinion. If battery hookup get the prismatic cells back for the same price I am ordering them.

I just watched a cool video.

https://www.harborfreight.com/metal-050-caliber-ammo-can-63750.html

Yea. A waterproof box for lion or LiPo. I know that completely sealed could explode if there was an issue however I could drill holes in the bottom to prevent such a mishap. I do not want to remove the rubber gasket as would like it waterproof if it rains.

I need a power bank for charging lion out in the van. I need a solar kit. Then a couple of ammo cans will work for my lion packs.

3/2/22 - 4:31 PM.

Still need a brake on the Diamondback and the Giant needs a thumb throttle and a axle. The axle with the lever that slides in. I found the one for the front 700c wheel on Johns Diamondback but need to find the one for the rear wheel. I am just going to run the Giant with the front hub and pedal assist.

3/3/22. - 230 PM.

I found the axle and a nut off a shorter axle that worked. The green light happened on the charger just before the temperature hit freezing on the old 10S - 10P hoverboard packs about early this morning around 3 or 4 AM. Five 10S - 2P in parallel. They are in the storage area separate from our living quarters. It is like 28 degrees today so not able to charge the 13S lion pack. Hopefully tomorrow or Saturday.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea.

Something is wrong with the 26" rear e bikeling motor. It trips the DC breaker. The controller is only 22 amp and the breaker is 40 so I just don't know why. All the wires are taped up good. No shorts.

I tried the old lion packs and the 12S - LIFEPo4s but does the same thing. Batteries would not cause the DC breaker to trip anyway.

It will turn on and will not trip if the wheel is off the ground but under load it trips.

I have no idea why. The e bikeling motors have the module that turns on the controller when you press and hold the power button. If I made a mistake in wiring it should not even turn on. I see no sparks and double checked the connections.

I just do not get it. I never had that happen before. The only time I ever tripped a DC breaker was when running the 1,000W brush chain drive with that 40 amp brush controller with the speed control knob.

I am only running an e bikeling 500W motor with a 22 amp controller. It makes no sense to me.

Please let me know if possible.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

Could be a defective house circuit breaker if its as you said nothing wrong with your wiring. Did you look over the wiring a minimum of 4.5 times?

Could also be a mislabelled controller thats not 22a but could be more amps then your home circuit breaker, that is a big could be or possibly be, rare as that might be you just never know. Remember those sellers could have slapped on the wrong sticker pumping their controllers out and when you ordered it it could have been the last minutes of a friday before they drink their Bubble Tea.

My guess is the circuit breaker, so you need to throw in a 30a or 40a 12vdc automotive breaker and see. If you break that one, then its the wiring or a shorted out controller so you'd have to open up the controller and take a quick peak in to see if everything is ok.

Get out your tote box of wires, get out your soldering iron and get on it, hopefully you have a 12v 30a fuse in your minivans fuse panel or cadillac.

It will turn on and will not trip if the wheel is off the ground but under load it trips.

 

[latecurtis]

Get out your tote box of wires, get out your soldering iron and get on it, hopefully you have a 12v 30a fuse in your minivans fuse panel or cadillac.

No Cadillac. I bought a 12 foot boat with a 14 foot trailer instead but might have a blade fuse I can use. John is going to try another 40 amp DC breaker tomorrow. If that trips as well then looking at a replacement controller. Also will be checking the wiring going to the motor for damage. I really hope I wont have to replace that.

We both worked hard building that e bike. The motor and controller was used on another e bike. It is not new. I also used a 40 amp breaker with it and never tripped before. Something has changed. I know it is probably not the same exact breaker but same brand and 40 amp.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

Take a good ole sniff of the controller and undo the 8 bolts, 4 side cover and 4 fets and slip the pcb out and take a look.
Always a bit of a challenge lining up the fet bolt holes to reinstall
Popped caps, black poop marks or something.
Its always something simple, probably wiring. Flip a coin

 

[latecurtis]

Take a good ole sniff of the controller and undo the 8 bolts, 4 side cover and 4 fets and slip the pcb out and take a look.
Always a bit of a challenge lining up the fet bolt holes to reinstall
Popped caps, black poop marks or something.
Its always something simple, probably wiring. Flip a coin

Yea. That does make sense.

I just don't think I am capable of taking a controller apart and putting it back together. I could swap controllers though but should probably swap the DC breaker out first to eliminate that. First check all wiring all the way to the motor though.

It is just something I have never encountered before. I have been using the DC breakers awhile and never had that happen before.
I also have the power meter DA recommended. It will tell me how many amps are going thru the breaker.

I just hate setbacks such as this. Especially when I worked so many hours on it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

3/4/22 - 12:39 PM.

OK. It was the switch. I just did a video. There are a few minor things to work out but the video will show that the main components are in working order. Motor , controller and batteries.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5T6DdaO1uvk

Yea. I don't see how disk could work on that. (Johns bike rear wheel) see video.

As far as my thumb throttle on the 20" Turbo Where the screw goes to tighten it is broke. I have one upstairs and shot some photos. It is not actually broke but is missing the screw and piece the screw fits into.



I might even have another one but will need to look. The cold weather could also be effecting the batteries.

If I ever move to a permanent apartment or house I will be looking for a 250 cc dirt bike frame with a blown motor and John is an experienced MIG and TIG welder. I bought the wire welder but he has the big one. We will be building the FX - 75 - 5 motor.

John is experienced with motor vehicles and has 30 years and over 3 million miles driving tractor trailer all over the country , Canada and Mexico. He is learning e bikes. That is new to him. He retired due to health issues.

He has a three wheel trike in my storage he wants to convert to electric. I will take pictures and hope that you more experienced members can help him with some ideas. I have never converted a three wheeler and do NOT want to give him bad advice. I do things my way. He wants to do things the right way.

Thanks. LC. out.

 

[calab]

Its a simple matter of doing the easiest troubleshooting first.
Wires are simple and as you just learned switches/throttles are simple fixes, this is why its important to have spares.
Usually the connectors are just cheap shit and people dont clue in that it could possibly be the connectors.

I get way less distance when its cold out, thats just common knowledge.

It doesnt look like to bad weather in PA, I prefer palm tree's and beach sand myself.

 

[latecurtis]

It doesnt look like to bad weather in PA, I prefer palm tree's and beach sand myself.

Ohio but you were close.

Yea. Those old 10S hoverboard packs only charged to 40.5V as they are very old plus the temperature was dropping down to freezing awhile I was charging them two nights ago.

I would like to see John get some use from them but would like to check each pack with the meter separate to make sure they are all still good. Then parallel them back up if they are.

The 13S - Lion pack which has been sitting in the van for months is above 48V. I would like to run that down to below 47V but not under 46V then charge back up to 53+ V. or full. That way the BMS has plenty of time to balance the pack.

When those newer 10S - 2P hoverboard pack/packs failed I was letting them sit around 38V or higher for days or a week at a time then charging to full or 42V then running them. That could be why they failed , not sure. All I know is I took one apart and found a cell < 2V and one > 5V. They are in storage in an ammo box.

I am not sure if it was my fault or not. I just know I do not like factory lion packs now as I can not monitor the cell banks. Factory packs usually do not have a Bluetooth BMS. I think LiPos are better as are two 6S in parallel with balance plugs for each. If there is an unstable cell you can catch it early before catastrophic failure.

If I do build 18650 lion it will be a 6S and a 4S or a 6S and a 5S for 36V controllers and 2 - 6S packs or a 6S and a 7S for 13S. I can charge 13S and balance separate as needed as my 4 in 1 meter will balance 7S. I could even do two 7S for 14S and charge at 13S.

I am still not sure if I will be building 18650 lion in storage or not but that could change. I prefer the 25 Ah prismatic cells but are currently out of stock. I found a large fold up metal table by a dumpster and will get a fold up chair. I can cover it with cardboard so the cells do not short out and get a real spot welder.



I already have a wire welder for bike frames. When I learn how to use it I wont need to use wood for mounting motors any longer and if I get the spot welder no more soldering batteries.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

Sunnko sucks.

 

[calab]

There are way better alternatives available then a sucky Sunnko.