New so...please help... Emoko hvd-3

Well just got back to mine and now the back 800w wheel is stiff like some sort of brake is comming on....... So opened it up... Nothing spells burned the battery will only charge now when I disconnect the controller..... And the wheel stiffness gose away when I disconnect all 3 wires yellow blue green

Sounds like you fried the controller and now some of the MOSFETs are shorted. Good thing you ordered a spare.
 
Sounds like you fried the controller and now some of the MOSFETs are shorted. Good thing you ordered a spare.
That's the thing I haven't ordered 1 yet 😂... I need a controller that is rated at 800w I cant find any that is the same as mine. As thay are only 350w or 500w........ Can anyone recommend 1 that will work will on the conector s the same as my one
 
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Will this 1 be ok
 

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Please don't ask me to bless or damn an alibaba controller but at that price maybe it's worth a gamble?

Don't count on connectors matching. Or colors! Always be ready to splice in to match up.
 
Please don't ask me to bless or damn an alibaba controller but at that price maybe it's worth a gamble?

Don't count on connectors matching. Or colors! Always be ready to splice in to match up.
That's what I mean just to get up and running... Just wanted to no if it shold be ok. As long as I can get help with splicing the wires to make it work. Ie people on hear helping me 😂
 
That's what I mean just to get up and running... Just wanted to no if it shold be ok. As long as I can get help with splicing the wires to make it work. Ie people on hear helping me 😂
The only way folks can help you is if you provide enough information and pics to identify all of the connectors and their functions of your existing controller, if you want the new controller to perform the same. The pic you posted earlier, while not terrible, doesn't show all of the connectors and wires coming out of the controller and the connectors they go to. I can see the phase wires and the hall sensor plug, and maybe one or two brake cutoffs (not sure), and maybe a PAS or throttle connector. A couple of the harnesses are behind/under the controller so no idea about those. A description of what functions you use might help as well (e.g. some controller may control lights, have cruise control, a 3-speed switch, etc.).
If you take a pic or a few pics, so we can see what's going on, it may be possible to answer your compatibility question.
 
The only way folks can help you is if you provide enough information and pics to identify all of the connectors and their functions of your existing controller, if you want the new controller to perform the same. The pic you posted earlier, while not terrible, doesn't show all of the connectors and wires coming out of the controller and the connectors they go to. I can see the phase wires and the hall sensor plug, and maybe one or two brake cutoffs (not sure), and maybe a PAS or throttle connector. A couple of the harnesses are behind/under the controller so no idea about those. A description of what functions you use might help as well (e.g. some controller may control lights, have cruise control, a 3-speed switch, etc.).
If you take a pic or a few pics, so we can see what's going on, it may be possible to answer your compatibility question.
OK totally understand.... Like I stated please bear with me as new to all this. So dont really understand.. I dont understand myself so emm I will do the best I can. With respect to what wires go wear don't no.... But happy to take as many pitchers as u require give me a few moments I will get a few
 
Hope theys are clearer
 

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Can i put a 25 amp controller on it as my battery is only 15ah......this is the bit I dont get a the kugoo g2 pro has the same battery 15ah and has a 25a 1000w controller in it so can I put a 1000w 25a controller in it. Do u think it would be ok.
 
This is it
Can i put a 25 amp controller on it as my battery is only 15ah......this is the bit I dont get a the kugoo g2 pro has the same battery 15ah and has a 25a 1000w controller in it so can I put a 1000w 25a controller in it. Do u think it would be ok.
Thanks for the pics. Is the the labled pic the existing controller or the new one that you want to use? If existing, then it may be a challenge to find a controller with the support of headlights, tail lights, brake lights, but that just takes more research.

For the battery, please note that battery ratings will describe ##A and ##Ah ratings, as well as the voltage. 25A is the current delivering capability, which means how much current the battery can deliver 100% of the time without it overheating or being damaged. 25Ah is the current capacity of the battery over time, similar to the total energy stored in the battery. So, a 25Ah battery can deliver 25A for an hour, or 12.5A for 2 hours, or 5A for 5 hours, all of which result in 25Ah of energy used.

For your question on controller compatibility, you need to know the current rating of the 15Ah battery, which is determined by the quality of the cells used in the pack, but unfortunately, the label on your battery doesn't provide that info, but you can make some reasonable guesses.

The label states 13S6P, 48V nominal, 15Ah capacity, and 720Wh capacity, 48x15 = 720, so that makes sense; and the model number if the pack implies the use of 18650 lithium cells.

6P is the number of parallel groups making up the pack, so 6, times the discharge rating of the cells used in the pack will determine the ##A current delivering capability. We can also use the 15Ah rating to determine the current storage of the individual cells is, or 15Ah/6 = 2.5Ah (2500mAh per cell). If the pack doesn't state Samsung, LG, Panasonic, etc., then it's make of cheap generic Chinese cells 99% of the time, and a lot of the cheap packs are made of 2500Ah generic cells, so that ties to the label as well. On my cheap generic cell pack, I could reasonably pull 3A-4A per cell, and 5A had a lot of sag, so 3A or 4A may be reasonable estimate. Since you have 6P, that's (6x4) 24A, so likely the pack can be used with your 25A controller, if it's it good working condition.
 
Thanks for the pics. Is the the labled pic the existing controller or the new one that you want to use? If existing, then it may be a challenge to find a controller with the support of headlights, tail lights, brake lights, but that just takes more research.

For the battery, please note that battery ratings will describe ##A and ##Ah ratings, as well as the voltage. 25A is the current delivering capability, which means how much current the battery can deliver 100% of the time without it overheating or being damaged. 25Ah is the current capacity of the battery over time, similar to the total energy stored in the battery. So, a 25Ah battery can deliver 25A for an hour, or 12.5A for 2 hours, or 5A for 5 hours, all of which result in 25Ah of energy used.

For your question on controller compatibility, you need to know the current rating of the 15Ah battery, which is determined by the quality of the cells used in the pack, but unfortunately, the label on your battery doesn't provide that info, but you can make some reasonable guesses.

The label states 13S6P, 48V nominal, 15Ah capacity, and 720Wh capacity, 48x15 = 720, so that makes sense; and the model number if the pack implies the use of 18650 lithium cells.

6P is the number of parallel groups making up the pack, so 6, times the discharge rating of the cells used in the pack will determine the ##A current delivering capability. We can also use the 15Ah rating to determine the current storage of the individual cells is, or 15Ah/6 = 2.5Ah (2500mAh per cell). If the pack doesn't state Samsung, LG, Panasonic, etc., then it's make of cheap generic Chinese cells 99% of the time, and a lot of the cheap packs are made of 2500Ah generic cells, so that ties to the label as well. On my cheap generic cell pack, I could reasonably pull 3A-4A per cell, and 5A had a lot of sag, so 3A or 4A may be reasonable estimate. Since you have 6P, that's (6x4) 24A, so likely the pack can be used with your 25A controller, if it's it good working condition.
Wow verry verry informative. Alot to learn.... Yes tge pitcher with everything labeled is my old controller identical wires.... Im wondering whether this controller would work what's your thourts or should I stick to a 25a.48v 500w
 

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Can you provide the actual link to both controllers instead of the screen shot? The old controller appears to be rated at 16A, but since I can't read Chinese, I can't tell if that's continuous or peak current. The new controller clearly states 13A continuous, and 26A peak. Hard to tell if the new controller can provide more or less power without knowing what the 16A represents.
 
This is what's written on the original controller. Don't no what modle it is nore do I no if its a 1000w 350w .500w. It only went 18mph verry slow factory. So want it to go like the kugoo g2 pro about 25mph and i will be happy...I translate it on an app. I will provide link as i cant find the fist 1
 

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Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £16.38 51%OFF | Brushless Motor Controller 48V 25A 6pin Cable Aluminum Alloy Plastic Electric Scooter Motor Controller 2023 New
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ez99bRn what about this 1..with the 6pin led trigger display. I'm gunna buy that 1 loads of extra wires tho.. Just brought it so might need help with splicing wires to make it work if that's OK please
 
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Hi guys had to cancel. That order as the seller couldn't ship my order........ So getting this 1 instead. Can someone help me with the wireing. Thing is I can't find the wireing diagram. It says its for a m4/m4pro
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £27.47 36%OFF | 48V 25A Electric Scooter Controller Dashboard Kit Spare Parts With TF-100 Display Scooter For KUGOO M4 Electric Scooter
 
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Well order turned up.... I figured it all out.. Got up and running. Got all indicator's working horn light / brake lights.... I do have 1 question tho. The side indicators. I did test with a multimeter and got a reading of 51v
 
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