Well, it's probably not 17A or 10A, it's probably 17Ah and 10Ah, which are completely different things.
Ah is capacity (range)
A is current (related to power draw)
However, they can be related, in that a lower Ah pack usually is also capable of delivering less A before voltage sags too much and packs' BMS shuts off, or the bike's controller shuts off due to LVC.
You'd need to know how much current your bike actually draws, and get a pack that can handle that current output continuously.
To measure that current you can use a wattmeter (a search on that word here on the forums will turn up many threads about various kinds and how to use them) or a multimeter/ammeter.
Many small packs are also meant for low power, so if your bike is too high power for the pack it isn't healthy for the pack, or may not work at all.
It's also possible it's just a really crappy new pack, and the cells aren't balanced or are defective.
Or that it isn't charged up, or the charger that came with it is defective.
Try leaving it on the charger that came with it for a few days (weeks if it's badly out of balance) and it might help, but a pack that comes new badly balanced is probably defective or not worth it, and should be replaced. Or repaired if you are comfortable with that and either knowledgeable enough to fix it or willing to spend a lot of hours reading all the other battery repair threads around the forum first.
ALso, "48v" can mean a 13s or a 14s battery pack; the latter is also often called a 52v pack. If your bike came with a 14s and you use a 13s, voltage sag on the 13s could drop it below the bike's LVC and cause what you see.
This also would mean you can't use the charger from one pack on the other.
If your new pack is 14s and the old was 13s, then the charger from the old one won't fully charge the new one. If the new one is also badly unbalanced, the old charger can't fix it, as it will never get to the point where the BMS begins balancing.
