Nissan Leaf Cells Test Data

When I said TOXIC, I found a dead rat 2 days after ONE had bitten holes in 2 of my cells. Coincidence or ???

Just use normal common sense when cleaning off that electrolyte. I used rubbing alcohol to get that oily film off, so I could Epoxy the holes shut. Be sure to bury or burn the rags you use, just so they do not spontaneus combust, if you leave them wadded up. Not sure what exactly is the make up of that electrolyte.

Why were they out of the cans ?? That would be a terrible way to pack them. I would seek replacement or money back for that whole carton. Damaged cells are not a good thing to have to put under your legs or "other" goodies.

Photos ??
 
teslanv said:
Yikes. :shock:
Click to expand...


Yikes, indeed.

I suspect a short while the pack was in transit? Those middle packs look damaged... why all the corrosion around them?

Still, the outer packs are serviceable. Many test fine with the voltmeter. I will take the pack apart and determine which are still usable. I've been googling enough to be pretty sure that I won't get cancer in a few days if I handle this material.
 
WTF. I'm surprised the package didn't light on fire.

That's a good reason right there not to buy random loose cells off eBay. Buy them in the can!
 
Holy crap. :shock: :shock: Whoever boxed them up should be lashed. Something like that could have caught fire OR sent out a large smoke cloud, and put a stop to shipping batteries. There must be close to 30# or more in that thin cardboard box. :roll:
Each bare cell weighs 1.76 pounds.

Looking at the leads coming off those cells, be VERY careful you don't set off a KFC event and cause some major damage.
 
I agree, they could've been packed better.

Still, that box was REALLY mishandled by the USPS. Looks like it was tossed around like a medicine ball...


The OTHER box that the seller sent me was in fine condition, and it was packed similarly. I can only guess that it was handled much better than the bad box. Those cells are fine.

I might be able to salvage 26 or 28 of the 32 that were sent to me... we'll see...


What's the best way to clean the crud off the terminals? Sandpaper?
 
Well you can't fault USPS. Technically these guys shouldn't even be shipping them USPS.

But yeah that battery looked like it was poorly put together.

I say from now on just get those still in its case. Less chance of short and damage.
 
Well,

I spent about 3 hours tonight disassembling that pack and testing the voltage with my multimeter. 15 out of the 16 in that pack test at 3.9-4.1 volts.

One pack, the "culprit" pack, was completely breached. The side of the pack was split wide open. I am certain that's where the material came from (the sweet smelling greasy material that must be the solution inside the batteries).

Looks like this might be a salvageable purchase. Still, I want to test each and every pack with a full charge and discharge.

I currently have ZERO chargers (this was my first battery pack). Can anyone recommend a cheap-ish charger than can also do a test discharge (to test capacity and discharge curve)??


Basically, what kind of hardware do I need to produce one of these:

file.php
 
Search "Bulk discharging"
You have a massive amount of testing ahead of you.
For a power supply, look into a modified server power supply like the Dell 2850 unit. 12V & 57A for 700W max.
Pair that with a 30A rc charger like an iCharger 306B or 3010B.
 
At 10A and 30V you'll only be feeding 300W to the battery. Eventually, once your massive pack is built, you are going to want a bigger PS, and all 30A for the 3010B charger.
You can get a Dell 2850 sever PS on eBay for around $20, and the mod is pretty easy. Or just buy one from icecube57. And I think to maximize output on the 3010B, you might need to add a second PS in series to bump it up to 24V to the charger.
That set-up should allow you to charge your full pack at 1000W.
What size/configuration pack are you going to build?
 
teslanv said:
At 10A and 30V you'll only be feeding 300W to the battery. Eventually, once your massive pack is built, you are going to want a bigger PS, and all 30A for the 3010B charger.
You can get a Dell 2850 sever PS on eBay for around $20, and the mod is pretty easy. Or just buy one from icecube57. And I think to maximize output on the 3010B, you might need to add a second PS in series to bump it up to 24V to the charger.
That set-up should allow you to charge your full pack at 1000W.
What size/configuration pack are you going to build?
Click to expand...

I will get one asap. But, for now, running 10A, 30V will be just fine for testing individual pack charge/discharge curves, yes? Once it is built, I understand I will need a bigger power supply.

My current plan is to build two separate 14s1p packs with these cells. I've been debating between that and a single 14s2p. The reason I want to separate the two packs is for the mounting configuration, which will be similar to this (on a Surly Big Dummy):

file.php






This will not be my primary pack--I have a smaller pack on order for commuting purposes. This big pack will be for bikepacking long mileage trips.
 
It will work fine. It will just be slow to charge.
I'm looking to upgrade my charger for the second time. First one was 50W, current one is 250W (iCharger 106B), and now looking for a 1kW charger like the 3010B. Just trying to save you the same headache. :mrgreen:
Its the typical NOOB progression, and most have to figure it out for themselves.
 
If your end goal is 14S2P, you should have just bought the cans, unmolested. Those would have been immensely easier to wire up, since you would not have had to modify them in any way.
 
Yikes! The more I see these open-can packs the more I'm glad I left mine inside the cans. Not only do you get a bit of safety by the cells and their connectors being sheilded from physical damage, but you also get the original bolt holes to apply compressive force.

Qu26sDj.jpg


I cut the original steel plate in half and bolted one piece to each side using some lengths of ready-rod. Between the cans and the steel plates I think I've added some 4-5 pounds, but damn is it ever worth it in my opinion.
 
:x
teslanv said:
If your end goal is 14S2P, you should have just bought the cans, unmolested. Those would have been 14S2P, since you would not have had to modify them in any way.
Click to expand...
Hi,

Which is exactly why, I was trying to convince him not to go with a 14S1P configuration in his other thread. It never even occurred to me that anyone would buy the loose cells instead of the modules. Why did you do that?! I think it would've been much easier to wire up, even in a 14S1P configuration using the complete modules.
 
inedible said:
Yikes! The more I see these open-can packs the more I'm glad I left mine inside the cans. Not only do you get a bit of safety by the cells and their connectors being sheilded from physical damage, but you also get the original bolt holes to apply compressive force.

Qu26sDj.jpg


I cut the original steel plate in half and bolted one piece to each side using some lengths of ready-rod. Between the cans and the steel plates I think I've added some 4-5 pounds, but damn is it ever worth it in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Wow very clean battery mod. I will have to steal your design for next battery build!
 
Hi,
Harold in CR said:
When I said TOXIC, I found a dead rat 2 days after ONE had bitten holes in 2 of my cells. Coincidence or ???
Click to expand...
Deanwvu said:
I've been googling enough to be pretty sure that I won't get cancer in a few days if I handle this material.
Click to expand...
I think you should minimize your physical exposure and to the fumes. Ingestion, exposure through the skin and breathing the fumes of a toxic material are all harmful.
 
If anyone is interested, I obtained a single NEW Leaf module from Hybrid Auto and ran a number of tests. You can find the results here:

http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?3668-Nissan-Leaf-battery-testing&p=44858#post44858

I was pretty satisfied. Appears the cells can do 10C, possibly a lot more, no problem.
 
Cool - I've got 19 brand new ones on their way to me at the moment :)

The 3C results look promising, I usually hit a bit over 180A from the batteries when I decide to wring its neck. :mrgreen:
 
noahpodolefsky said:
...Appears the cells can do 10C, possibly a lot more, no problem.
Click to expand...

from previous posts, the official specs were..
Power density 2.5 kW/kg
Cell type Laminate type
Rated capacity (0.3C) 33.1 Ah
Average voltage 3.8 V
Weight 1.7624 lbs (799 g)

So from this Key data ....
Power density 2.5 kW/kg
Weight 1.7624 lbs (799 g)
Rated capacity (0.3C) 33.1 Ah
Average voltage 3.8 V

Leads me to think each cell has power capacity of 2.0kWs..
Which suggests 526 amps from a 33Ahr cell ..or 16C !!

god knows what the voltage sag or temperature increase is like though ?
One day, there will be a standard test procedure to establish "C" rates and capacity etc etc.
 
Guys I would be cautious when running anything higher then the rated C rating. Nissan reduced the current from the battery in 2013 for a reason. You might not notice a drop in performance at first but it would be after a few cycles the problems will appear.

For instance I have video of pulling >90c from a Turnigy hard case pack rated for 20c continuous and 30c peak.
 
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