NON-Electric Schwinn Meridian Trike Pedal Skipping

[pottsf]

When I ride my new trike, the pedals "skip" once every revolution or so. Skip is about 45 degrees of the circle or so, I estimate. The chains are tensioned properly. The trike is near-new (2024). Doesn't stop me riding, but is annoying as hell. Single-speed, 26-inch wheels. As though the freewheel is "running ahead" of me (no load on the pedals). Freewheel seems to be working right, otherwise.
A bike mechanic trued the drive wheel to keep it from rubbing the fender (works).
Is there a better forum for non-electric (pedal) trikes? Can't find one.

 

[amberwolf]

What exactly does "pedals skip" mean?

Based on the description, it sounds like you mean they suddenly just rotate without any load on them, not driving the wheel, for 1/8th of a pedal (chainring) rotation, every time they go around, in the same spot every time.

Which way it skips and exactly what is happening with the skip helps locate the problem.


If this is in the same spot of the pedal revolution, then unless the pedal to wheel gearing is exactly 1:1 so the pedals rotate directly with the wheel, it has to be something in the pedals or BB itself, which is unlikely (unless the chainring is not bolted on and is sliding around, which also wouldn't give the same results).

It could still be at the pedals if the freewheel is in the chainring itself, instead of back at the wheel (unusual but not impossible).


If there are no gears to shift on the trike (like an IGH in the drivetrain or wheel, which is common on this style of trike in general), then you'll have a fixed ratio from pedals to wheel, and the spot where it skips should rotate with the ratio of pedals to freewheel input sprocket, which is not usually 1:1.


Freewheels don't usually skip for part of a rotation, they either seize so they don't freewheel at all, allowing the chain to backdrive the pedals, or the pawls stick down so they dont' drive anything and the pedals spin freely wihtout driving the wheel. Soemtiems only one pawl sticks or breaks, but that doesn't let it spin freely for part of a rotation, it just transfers more of the load to the remaining pawls.


A bearing race can break on the BB, so that it clicks or feels odd once every pedal rotation, but that doesn't unload the pedals.

 

[PaPaSteve]

Skip might be as simple as a stiff link in the chain. Try to find where the ends were connected together.
When coasting, is the freewheel pushing the pedals to rotate ?
Pedals spin freely on their axle ?

 

[neptronix]

How well is your derailleur aligned to the gears? this is the first thing i'd check.

 

[Oldguy614]

How well is your derailleur aligned to the gears? this is the first thing i'd check.

Single speed though

 

[neptronix]

Same question then, want to check alignment of all gears, and also see what the motion looks like when pedaling the bike with ya hands.

 

[neptronix]

Is there a better forum for non-electric (pedal) trikes? Can't find one.

Hey we're an OK substitute if you can't find one!

 

[PaPaSteve]

Same question then, want to check alignment of all gears, and also see what the motion looks like when pedaling the bike with ya hands.

Good idea.
Use blocks (or something) to raise the rear wheels off the ground so they spin freely.
Rotate the cranks, watch the chain and feel with your hand where and when the skip happens.
Rotate the wheel by hand, does the cranks spin too ?
Look for "kinks" in the chain.

stiff links video =

 

[Chalo]

When I ride my new trike, the pedals "skip" once every revolution or so. Skip is about 45 degrees of the circle or so, I estimate. The chains are tensioned properly.

There are other things that it could be.

- Worn or damaged sprockets anywhere in the system

- Knackered or missing inner axle bearings allowing axle flex

- Trashed freewheel ratchet

- Trashed drive flats on the driven wheel

- Loose or damaged freewheel mounting collar, or the axle where it mounts

 

[pottsf]

What exactly does "pedals skip" mean?

Based on the description, it sounds like you mean they suddenly just rotate without any load on them, not driving the wheel, for 1/8th of a pedal (chainring) rotation, every time they go around, in the same spot every time.

Which way it skips and exactly what is happening with the skip helps locate the problem.


If this is in the same spot of the pedal revolution, then unless the pedal to wheel gearing is exactly 1:1 so the pedals rotate directly with the wheel, it has to be something in the pedals or BB itself, which is unlikely (unless the chainring is not bolted on and is sliding around, which also wouldn't give the same results).

It could still be at the pedals if the freewheel is in the chainring itself, instead of back at the wheel (unusual but not impossible).


If there are no gears to shift on the trike (like an IGH in the drivetrain or wheel, which is common on this style of trike in general), then you'll have a fixed ratio from pedals to wheel, and the spot where it skips should rotate with the ratio of pedals to freewheel input sprocket, which is not usually 1:1.


Freewheels don't usually skip for part of a rotation, they either seize so they don't freewheel at all, allowing the chain to backdrive the pedals, or the pawls stick down so they dont' drive anything and the pedals spin freely wihtout driving the wheel. Soemtiems only one pawl sticks or breaks, but that doesn't let it spin freely for part of a rotation, it just transfers more of the load to the remaining pawls.


A bearing race can break on the BB, so that it clicks or feels odd once every pedal rotation, but that doesn't unload the pedals.

The freewheel on Meridians is an INDEPENDENT assembly, not in a hub, nor in/on the crankshaft. It's on the shaft that connects the front chain to the rear chain. BB? Ball bearing? IGH? Independent gear hub? Thanks for answer. I'm going to try WD40 in the freewheel.

 

[Chalo]

The freewheel on Meridians is an INDEPENDENT assembly, not in a hub, nor in/on the crankshaft. It's on the shaft that connects the front chain to the rear chain. BB? Ball bearing? IGH? Independent gear hub? Thanks for answer. I'm going to try WD40 in the freewheel.

That jackshaft hub is still a hub; it just doesn't have a rim laced to it.

BB = bottom bracket

IGH = internally geared hub (e.g. 3 speed)

 

[amberwolf]

The freewheel on Meridians is an INDEPENDENT assembly, not in a hub, nor in/on the crankshaft. It's on the shaft that connects the front chain to the rear chain. BB? Ball bearing? IGH? Independent gear hub? Thanks for answer. I'm going to try WD40 in the freewheel.

Ah, then it probably does have an IGH, most likely. (internal geared hub). That adds some other places for a failure that could cause what you see, such as stripped gears inside the IGH or a shifter that's misaligned and not fully shifting into gear.

Good clear well-lit (direct sunlight is best) pictures of everything in the drivetrain, and a more precise description of the symptoms may help us help you find the problem.

See this thread for a much much older version of Schwinn trike with pics of the IGH, shifter, etc :

Amberwolf's Schwinn Trike Rebuild / Conversion to Heavy Cargo Hauler

From here: https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/the-sb-cruiser-amberwolfs-2wd-heavy-cargo-trike-dog-carrier.67833/post-1827806 I got an old Schwinn Tri-Wheeler Town and Country (probably the 1971 or 75 or 78 model, based on info from bikehistory.org) from someone I knew from the...

endless-sphere.com

 

[pottsf]

There are other things that it could be.

- Worn or damaged sprockets anywhere in the system

- Knackered or missing inner axle bearings allowing axle flex

- Trashed freewheel ratchet

- Trashed drive flats on the driven wheel

- Loose or damaged freewheel mounting collar, or the axle where it mounts

I can rule out ALL EXCEPT bad freewheel ratchet and loose mounting collar. Going to check the latter now. The freewheel itself seems to be a sealed unit, but not necessarily hard to replace. If I maintain load on the pedals carefully, it does NOT skip (no hills on my route, but on an uphill, it would NOT skip).

That jackshaft hub is still a hub; it just doesn't have a rim laced to it.

BB = bottom bracket

IGH = internally geared hub (e.g. 3 speed)

No gears. Jackshaft: just so. I suspect the rear chain might be too tight. I CAN loosen it, with effort. WD40 didn't seem to do much. Freewheel is marked TRI-DIAMOND.

 

[pottsf]

I have loosened the rear chain (a lot). No joy. Now, my thoughts are on the "D" in the hub of the drive wheel. There seems to be play vis-a-vis the mating "D" of the axle shaft. I am at a loss as to how to reduce/eliminate this.