Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

Is there any way to disable/enable throttle inputs in the different speed modes? I dont have the controller yet, so sorry if it is already implemented. I'm thinking it could be useful to have a "road legal" mode (low wattage, PAS input only, since throttle handle is illegal in many countries). And being able to turn off PAS for the slow/tecnical trail riding (I would assume 3-4KW jerking in and out from PAS would make it a handful, better to just control motor with throttle handle).
 
HrKlev said:
Is there any way to disable/enable throttle inputs in the different speed modes? I dont have the controller yet, so sorry if it is already implemented. I'm thinking it could be useful to have a "road legal" mode (low wattage, PAS input only, since throttle handle is illegal in many countries). And being able to turn off PAS for the slow/tecnical trail riding (I would assume 3-4KW jerking in and out from PAS would make it a handful, better to just control motor with throttle handle).

I think you can use a 3 Speed switch for this program each instance

Peter
 
VasiliSk said:
how did you configured speed switch?
surron wires have direct throttle connection, if you want to connect it somewhere else i suggest to use display port

ive used each of the 4 main screen buttons for each mode 1-3 and R... the controller defaults to mode 2 (presuming thats normal?) on startup, i can change to 3 or to R, but not 1... hold down the associated button and nothing happens.

doubt its related but the far right button doesn't have the same 'click' as the other 3... it works but is not audible/tactile like the rest.
 
VasiliSk said:
on latest software default mode is 1, unless there is 3 speed switch configured in controller ports

will have a look in the settings - mine definitely defaults to 2, with no apparent way to get to 1...
 
Hi Everyone.
I have a bike called lmx64. It is having this nucular drive. I have a plan to make bike "like" road legal ( i have insurance for ev which have limits 1kW and 25/h). When connecting power, it should start like road legal (25km/h and no throttle) and after making some tricks enabling these normal speed modes (s1,2,3).

Question is that has anayone made it and which way? My idea is to have an extra switch which is connected digin and its overwriting any other speed mode selection. This moment i have switch connected digin5 and i/o parameters its configured throttle disable (first step done). I have a issue with modes, that i dont like to use these S1,2,3 for this, because these modes are needed in offroad riding. Does anyone have suggestions which way to do it.
Is there possibility to add more modes (found in manual: "Controller - Advanced modes
In this menu you can activate advanced control modes with parameter Enable adv. modes.")?
I dont know what it means or makes? In manual there is modes N and Reverse, i think its not possible to have same parameters like S1 is having (for me doesnt matter if mode name is eg.Rv or N, if it just make these limits). What a about cruise? i havent understood it functionately yet. This lmx nucular configuration is showing modes n,s1,s2,s3 this moment and reverse mode is visible (not needed, but where to activate it?)

Basically main question is that how to get more modes like S4 and how to keep certain mode selected until switch is activated?

Please give your idea to make this road legal function.
Thank you
 
Nice post.

-methods

sn0wchyld said:
ElectricGod said:
Ohbse said:
ElectricGod said:
.
Watts = volts X amps
Battery watts = battery voltage X battery amps
Motor watts = battery voltage x phase amps

This is obviously very incorrect, phase amps x battery voltage would result in more power output than power input from the battery.

Torque is phase amps, if you want more 'kick' you need more phase amps. A 12f will not give you enough torque on a qs273.

Current drops as bemf of the motor increases until motor current reaches near zero as voltage available equals bemf. Fw extends this speed at the expense of additional current being required. This is speed range is limited by the bemf voltage exceeding the controller silicon limits.

Very incorrect? How about overly simplistic and close enough for people that don't want to read white papers or spend time understanding what's really going on.

I said phase amps increases torque. Not sure what your point is.

For people that like white papers...

Here's one about how Kv works:
http://learningrc.com/motor-kv/

A couple of basic articals on bEMF:
https://www.motioncontroltips.com/lenzs-law/
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/277602/where-does-back-emf-appear-in-motor

EG mate, this is why some people get annoyed with you from time to time. On your RV motor thread you've just had it explained by several people in no uncertain terms that the calculation bV x phA is meaningless/useless/erroneous, yet here you are defending it as somehow valid or useful, if but 'oversimplified'. Its not even that... It doesn't tell you anything about the system at hand. its not 'motor watts'... motor watts is either A, = battery watts (perhaps accounting for controller output efficiency), or B, = mechanical output power, NEITHER of which is related to or determined by bV x phA. phA gives a indication of torque, subject to things like saturation. bV gives an indication of max RPM with respect to a given motor. its only with the knowledge of bA that power of either the battery output/motor input, or the motor mechanical output can be determined... and none of these values are determined (nor any other value of worth) by multiplying bV with phA. Perhaps you can explain what you are trying to get a 'feel for' with this number your calculating, some of us might be able to point you in a better direction?

You may well see this as some kind of 'personal attack' mate, but its not - its constructive criticism of the errors in your understanding and knowledge, with a clear indication as to both why its in error, and how to fix/improve it. And its stated in an effort to head off spreading of further confusion on an already complicated/complex enough system. If your looking for a 'simplified' view / understanding of the system, this is simply not the way to do it, because as mentioned several times now, it doesn't bare any relation to how the system will behave.
 
Hi Vasily
Can you tell us a bit about the new 6 fet version you are working on?
Any significant changes over the previous model?
Thanks
 
Other than cost, is there any downside to having the controller potted? One place I ride has a river crossing where if I fell over, the controller would be partially submerged briefly. Would that destroy the controller?
 
Potting is ideally what makes it waterproof.

Downside is, more difficult to desolder and replace burnt components.

I believe Vasili has not answered the question, as to specifically what compound is used, inquiring minds want to know
 
if it helps, i've had the bottom foot+ of the sb cruiser trike (with controllers, wiring, charger, etc) submerged multiple times in flash flood waters, for probably less than a minute each time, and only once per ride.

the charger is a potted meanwell hgl-600h-54a.

the controllers were different each time, but none of them were potted, just the usual flimsy silicone seals, etc.

nothing failed any of the times, but i did have to open the pack up to dry out the spaces between cells the first time, because the cargo area under the seat where the battery is located got a lot of water in it. (shortly after that first time, i sealed it up except for a drain hole in case of future water intrusion, rain, etc). i opened controllers each time afterward to check but never found any sign of water intrusion.

i expect longer submersions would cause problems wiht the controllers or wiring, but don't know how long it would last before water did get in. (or if they were out in the rain itself, instead of being under the trike away from everything except floodwaters).
 
thoroughbred said:
Other than cost, is there any downside to having the controller potted? One place I ride has a river crossing where if I fell over, the controller would be partially submerged briefly. Would that destroy the controller?

your essentially exchanging repair-ability for reliability... it both improves waterproofing and vibration resistance... two major causes of failure (next to overpower/overdriving failures). Vas mentioned he can get the potting out for repairs in a previous post too, but generally speaking its difficult, particularly without the nessasary chemicals to desolve it.

if its anything to go by... my 24f is potted :p - but its in direct line of fire from water spray from the road/front tyre and on a bike that will be ridden offroad/into water crossings so waterproofing was high on the list for me.
 
I think that it's worth noting that (at this point in time) the reliability of the Nucular controllers has been exceptional. In comparison to most other controllers, they appear to be relatively bulletproof.

Certainly my experience so far has been of outstanding performance in a tiny package, with very little heat produced. From this, I infer they have used high quality components, construction, and design.

The downside of potting (limited access for repairs) in that case is moot.

Potting wasn't available as an option when I ordered my 12F, but I will probably do it myself next time our electrical guys are doing enclosures at work (if I can find the motivation to uninstall/reinstall...).
 
Back
Top