Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

Pantera_666 said:
Yes sir, you are absolutely correct, blown mosfets...
so i took the controller apart and it seems that if got water in somehow...

So question is: which mosfets to get, and where can i buy them? I'm in the US by the way...

How is your controller mounted?
Never mount it with the wires facing up, water can follow the wires in to the controller.
 
It was mounted with the wires facing up...
When i took the controller apart, a lot (and i mean A LOT) of water came out... Half of the controller was basically submerged in water, and it seems that it was like that for a while because the water was moldy and there was a a lot of corrosion in the fets screws...
mind you guys, i’ve never rode my bike while raining but you know... water will find it’s way if there’s an opening (the wires opening is not tight, nevermind water-tight...) and a little splash here and there will accumulate overtime...
 
:lol: :lol: :lol: the New Nucular submarine
 
thank you for beeing honest. wires up is mostly a controller killer, no matter what brand. its not the question does it happen, its only when will it happen.

how long have you owned it? i wonder how long it takes to rust "inside" allready.
 
Pantera_666 said:
mind you guys, i’ve never rode my bike while raining but you know... water will find it’s way if there’s an opening (the wires opening is not tight, nevermind water-tight...) and a little splash here and there will accumulate overtime...

Yes especially with the wires up. It's like putting a glass of water under a tap !! :roll:
 
By the way, i don’t want this to look like it’s a design fault or Vasilisk fault or anything like that... i should have known better and mount it with the wires facing down or inside the frame or whatever...
I’ll post some pics later today...
Guys please learn from my mistake and take measures against this issue... it’s present in 99% of ebike controllers, not only the Nucular. The cables have to come out of somewhere and IT WILL BE A WEAK POINT...
Guys: I understand that i’m the first victim of this issue, but let’s try and make it the last one...
Vasilisk: man i love your work and your team’s product, it’s amazing!! Like nothing out there... i was just unlucky...
 
Pantera_666 said:
When i took the controller apart, a lot (and i mean A LOT) of water came out... Half of the controller was basically submerged in water, and it seems that it was like that for a while because the water was moldy and there was a a lot of corrosion in the fets screws...
Then I would not bother replacing the FETs, and just get a new controller...because that corrosion is likely to get worse, in places you can't even see (like under the MCU and chips, and in the thru-holes on the board), even once it's dried out.

Even if it doesn't, there may be other damage you can't see but will find out about once you power it up again with new FETs in it...possibly while riding. :(

Depending on the FET you use, and whether you replace them all or just the failed ones, my guess is it'll be about $50-$100, possibly not including shipping.


The good news is this probably means your motor is fine. :/
 
Yea, the seal around the wires is really bad. At least on my potted controller, I guess it is the same on the non potted.
But I would not mount any controller (or other devices) with the wiring up. It is to ask for trouble sooner or later, at least if it is not in a dry environment.
 
Ok, so i'm back home...
Should i post pics?
I see that every posted pic of the insides of the controller is deleted...
Maybe we are not supposed to show it?
 
If you mean the first post in the "photos" section, it looks like they posted them on external hosting websites, which tend to regularly lose or block viewing of stuff.

If you post the pics by attaching them directly to your post, they wont' get lost, and anyone that can see your post can see the pics.
 
hello Vasilisk,

I have Cyc X1 Pro Gen 2 with original controller FOC (i suppose) with 20s battery/28Ah/80A BMS.

Do you think that i will have better efficiency/performance with the 12F controller ?
Also, do you think that i can reduce noise with your controller ?

Kind regards.

Olivier
 
You need a 150A BMS. Nucular 12F is 10kW pic
 
amberwolf said:
Pantera_666 said:
Then I would not bother replacing the FETs

I understand what you’re saying here, but i want to at least try and see...

Could you or anyone guide me in the replacement parts?

If i’m not mistaken it has to be a 100v 120a n-channel TO-220 mosfet, but i have found several that match that description! Honestly i’m not educated in mosfets specs and values...

I think i found a suitable replacement, is a infineon brand (can’t find the exact same one as in the controller...) the model is IPP023N10N5AKSA1... can someone help me here?
 
olivier2604
Noise will be same, performance may be poor coz cyc is RC-like engine

Pantera_666 post if you want to make chinese guys happy for reverse engineering ;))

btw i would not expect to find "nucular-like" on aliexpress, they just dont know how to write software at all, if something similar appears its gonna be user-experience-madness thing lol
 
Pantera_666 said:
Ok, so i'm back home...
Should i post pics?
I see that every posted pic of the insides of the controller is deleted...
Maybe we are not supposed to show it?

I think it is Electric god:s pictures you are referring to, he has deleted his pictures himself all around the forum since he got banned.
 
Pantera_666 said:
Could you or anyone guide me in the replacement parts?

If i’m not mistaken it has to be a 100v 120a n-channel TO-220 mosfet, but i have found several that match that description! Honestly i’m not educated in mosfets specs and values...

I think i found a suitable replacement, is a infineon brand (can’t find the exact same one as in the controller...) the model is IPP023N10N5AKSA1... can someone help me here?
Are you replacing *all* the FETs?

If not, you should use the same p/n as what's already in there. Which number is on the ones you already have?

Otherwise, you should probably just try to match the major characteristics of the existing FETs.
 
Amberwolf
The ones that come in the controller are the Magnachip mdp10n027. 100v 120a 2.8m ohm N-channel

The one that I found is a Infineon IPP023N10N5AKSA1. 100v 120a 2.0m ohn N-channel...


That’s the closest match i could find for sale here in the US...
 
PITMIX said:
Pantera_666 said:
mind you guys, i’ve never rode my bike while raining but you know... water will find it’s way if there’s an opening (the wires opening is not tight, nevermind water-tight...) and a little splash here and there will accumulate overtime...

Yes especially with the wires up. It's like putting a glass of water under a tap !! :roll:



The water always wins.
 
Ziltoid81

My guess is that it accumulated little by little by riding it over wet streets and sidewalks... also i had the cables facing up, so it guided the water inside the controller... the water was moldy by the time i opened up the controller, it was accumulating there for a while...
 
Well it’s not like i’ve been riding right afted it rained or something like that... sometimes there’s a wet section on the road for whatever reason and you just can’t avoid it. I wouldn’t call that “wet conditions”, it’s just how the road is...

What killed my controller was me installing it with the wires facing up... i should have known better, but it never crossed my mind because i don’t “wash” my bike with water and also i don’t ride when it’s rainy...
 
Pantera_666 said:
The ones that come in the controller are the Magnachip mdp10n027. 100v 120a 2.8m ohm N-channel
The one that I found is a Infineon IPP023N10N5AKSA1. 100v 120a 2.0m ohn N-channel...
That’s the closest match i could find for sale here in the US...
I'd say it's pretty close on all accounts. Assuming that the rest of the circuit is ok (good chance it's not), they should work. $100 gamble.

Personally I would install some cheaper n-mosfets that I have laying around, and bench test that the controller still functions and turns the motor (low speed, no load). Then if that works, buy the pricey parts and put it all back together
 
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