Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

That's what i'm talking about, great idea!

I have a chinese 20a controller laying around... guess it will go to the sacrifice altar :twisted: :twisted:
 
Help please,
When setting control mode to FOC, the motor stutters, see attached video:

https://youtu.be/I71vRFXVekE

motor is cyclone 3000
 
Electronics can easily be restored after being under water, lots of videos available on youtube.
Just search for: Restore waterlogged electronics
 
This will be the first time I update firmware, so I will check first that the new ones (display and controller) are later than the exist versions in the display and controller. My question is does it retain all of my existing settings, so I don't have to worry about wheel off the ground as well as writing down all my settings to duplicate?
 
John in CR said:
My question is does it retain all of my existing settings, so I don't have to worry about wheel off the ground as well as writing down all my settings to duplicate?
When I did it last time, it wiped the settings. You can export the current settings to the memory card first. Then import them after you update.
 
Nice thread

-methods

VasiliSk said:
We have tested our e-boat kit :D
Reached speed 10kmh, need higher RPM, motor worked oh half power.
Z939kIZl.jpg
 
serious_sam said:
John in CR said:
My question is does it retain all of my existing settings, so I don't have to worry about wheel off the ground as well as writing down all my settings to duplicate?
When I did it last time, it wiped the settings. You can export the current settings to the memory card first. Then import them after you update.

Great tip :thumb:, and yet another good call by mr vasili.
 
Altair said:
Electronics can easily be restored after being under water, lots of videos available on youtube.
Just search for: Restore waterlogged electronics

Very true
The key is to de-energize as fast as possible.

Nearly all electronics actually go thru the equivalent of a dish washer before they get to you. It is called an "aqueous wash" (as opposed to a solvent bath). Water does not hurt things like a motor controller or motor at all. Water + Electricity absolutely destroys things.

There are many pins which are sensitive and under-protected in a value engineered design. Water breaks the rules by allowing stray voltage all over the place. Anything from pinholes at the atomic layer to mechanical etching....

So
If you drop something like a phone in the water - pop the battery immediately. The liquid can be evacuated from the screen via vacuum or baking in an oven. The most important part is to pull power as soon as you know something is wet.

-methods
 
Hi Vasily,

I'm very impressed with my 24f. Ive only managed to get 12kw out of it so far. Even with all my weight over the handle bars it just tries to wheel stand :D
I will need to build a longer swing arm or wheely bars to get 20kw out of it.

Any update on the BMS development?
 
Hello guys!
Who has pre-orders for 6F controller, numbers from 290C to 1000C, we are ready to send the order.
You will get a new version of 6F 2.0. Dimensions 53x32x91 mm, 12V 3A on board, phase 120A, battery ~90A.
The cost of 170 USD, display 90 USD. Also, you can choose the accessories at https://nucular.tech/#accessories.

Important!
All new 6F are by default with compound fill (IP67, better cooling), if you do not need to fill, the cost will not change, in this case, the board will be covered with a varnish. The filling is full, you can't add any wiring after filling, so think about your connecting scheme in advance.
By default, the output from the controller:
- the phase wires, 11AWG motor bullet 5mm jack (female connectors in the kit)
- the battery wires 12AWG XT60 jack (mating connectors in the kit)
- the halls wires
- CAN wire to display, 1.1 meter length.

And remaining two connectors in the controller PWM/PAS (5V,12V) and Control (alternative gas/brake connection to the controller, by default connection to the display). The schematic here is https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KkEgWcJ5U-AEkk6GrXhDNlYXFCcsjpUQ/view

For delivery at the moment we use the Russian company DPD, which delivers through UPS. We have tested for Europe, Australia and USA, everything is fast and reliable, parcels are delivered in a short time. The cost of delivery is not expensive.

Write to me in pm, to sales@nucular.tech, or Telegram @DmitryBogdanchikov
 
Turbomatic said:
Hello guys!
Who has pre-orders for 6F controller, numbers from 290C to 1000C, we are ready to send the order.
You will get a new version of 6F 2.0. Dimensions 53x32x91 mm, 12V 3A on board, phase 120A, battery ~90A.
The cost of 170 USD, display 90 USD. Also, you can choose the accessories at https://nucular.tech/#accessories.

What about preorder #845C for a 24F? :D
 
Hi Nuc.. I've had an absolute blast with my 12f controller for a year or so know.. thousands of hard miles offroad on my raptor :bigthumb:

this morning I managed to flip the bugger :oops: bike went down quite hard on it's side.. then no power to motor.. ? I got input from throttle & tried a new one, regen brake works perfect, charges fine .. everything is as it should be screen boots up it's perfect just don't go .. just thought I'd ask before a tare down.. I'll check the throttle plug to the head unit tomrrow first but i can see movement in the control menu so..?

Oh & when charging I get the same coggy motor like normal..
 
OK I see..

Tonight I ran a # configuration step by step ! #
full setup

Everything worked fine except for throttle setup it stayed on "press" and didn't change to release like brake did, motor spun up all seemed good, but no throttle.

I used a spare throttle too, just the same.. I checked the plug into the back of the computer it seems fine?

I do plan on checking the cable that runs to the controller from the computer for damage, the system is definitely not picking up a throttle signal.

Any thoughts on what may of happened?

Thanks

Jon

PS sorry for a terrible pic..
 

Attachments

  • nuc.jpg
    nuc.jpg
    16.1 KB · Views: 882
I,ve checked that my hall sensored brake changes voltage in "Display - information" etc and it does perfectly.

I unplugged that from the back of the LCD computer then plugged it into the throttle port and this to gives the reading of 0.00v too.

Could there be a fault in the cable that runs to the controller as I believe Throttle is the yellow pin on the plug inside the control unit from what I see on the schematic.

Many thanks

Jon
 
Back
Top