Observed trials bike designing

I'd be interested to hear how that feels. I'm kind of guessing it's going to be a fairly rudimentary analogy to a flywheel. Maybe just a minimum rate of accel/decelerate on the motor RPM. If I remember correctly they have asymmetric accelerate and decelerate "flywheel" settings, so riders can set a reasonably snappy accelerate, but a much slower decelerate.
I'd be most interested in these two circumstances:
1. From flat or gentle upslope accelerate hard (ideally wheelie front wheel clear) in to an obstacle perhaps axle height, but ensure the throttle is closed before the back hits. A real flywheel will release lots of torque as the wheel hits and tries to stop. Unless the Stark flywheel has more smarts than I think then I expect it to kind of fall in a heap and not give that big torque surge. This move should also show up if the 'flywheel' response is moderated by the basic throttle smoothing or not. In fact if the throttle settings are set really soft & progressive it should make it easier to feel how the two (flywheel & throttle tuning) interact.
2. a normal splat style clutch dump.

Yeah I have a feeling it's functionally just adjustment to spindown / spin up time, and I doubt it will perform well in either of the situations you describe. No clutch, it's a single speed, so a splat style clutch dumb is totally out. But we'll see when it shows up!

From my perspective what you're doing with clutch & rpm is the gold standard, looking for more snap off the bottom via motor response is a regression that will cause more problems than it solves. But I don't do your style of riding.
I love this quote from an ex-national trials champ rider who now rides hard enduro comps a bit. "Hard enduro is really just trials riding on inappropriate machinery" :ROFLMAO:
Hahaha yes, the issue is that mostly my 250 is a wide ratio transmission (as far from a trials bike as you can get!) so I really need to be in the right gear, or sometimes on a big climb you have to throw in an awkward shift down from 3rd to 2nd because the bike won't lug down low, or you're just absolutely annihilating the clutch for extended periods to keep the bike on the pipe and in the power - pinned to keep the RPMs up, modulating with the clutch, but if you've lost momentum and the tire hooks you can easily end up with it suddenly dropping RPM and you're back out of the power. Amazing when you can ride it the way it should be ridden, a lot of work if you're a little off your game.
I suspect you'll run up against the problem you refer to in the EM. If the flywheel is on the end of the shaft with the output and clutch then you either run out of space for a large diameter flywheel, or you end up with the flywheel hanging far out the end. The EM flywheel is anorexic and spins up/down so fast as to be next to useless. Making a flywheel out of Cu/W helps considerably as Cu/W is roughly 1.5 - 2 x as dense as steel. But it's not cheap.
Adding mass to the clutch basket would be a really, really inefficient way of adding inertia - the basket is spinning so slowly compared to the motor, you'd have to add enormous amounts of weight to make it useful.

Here's a thought for you that I've considered previously. In your QS/ICE crank build you geared the motor to the flywheel (crank) and then out to the drive. What if you drive direct off the motor, but gear the flywheel? So the motor sits where the crank shaft was (with a clutch) and the flywheel sits up above it all running off a gear (belt, chain, gear - whatever works). Now you lose some of the space constraints of hanging a flywheel off the end of the motor and you also gain the possibility of gearing the flywheel up to benefit from the exponential gain in energy with rotational velocity. Those QS motors and even the EM are pretty slow turning, so the flywheel has to be big &/or heavy to be really effective. Throw in a 2:1 step up and now your 4,000 rpm motor is spinning a nice little 8,000 rpm flywheel. Or go 3:1 and have a 12,000 rpm flywheel!
Torquey low rpm motor that makes final drive a bit more manageable combined with a high rpm flywheel. win - win.

Ahh, this is a great point - I was optimizing for _not_ machining out a set of cases, so that's why the location as it sat. The thing about that setup is that the 2 stroke cranks are shockingly heavy (more so when you weld them together), so it did have a lot of good flywheel mass, it was just that the throttle response was really marginal.

I'm really hoping the new EM 4 speed is the answer to all my dreams, I can deal with the flywheel thing if I could just have a bit more flexibility with power vs speed.

Did your EM not have the idle mode? That's a game changer - trying to coordinate picking up revs off zero and clutch just doesn't really work, which is why they have idle on all the better e-trials bikes now.
That's also where you come up against the limitations of controllers that only know about torque without any reference to RPM or load. That horrible characteristic of electric bikes to just spin up madly when there's no load. By the time you start to tame that by limiting the throttle response (really the rate of torque increase) then you can't get any snap out of the system. The control loop has to know about RPM to work the way we want it.
If the "soft start" you mention was a soft rpm rise, but not necessarily a soft torque increase, it would be a completely different feel. You could still get really solid power & acceleration out, but without the crazy runaway that uncontrolled rpm rise gives. At some point you'd hit the limits of the RPM rise rate, and that's when you'd need to be using clutch to step up the snap.
Sorry, I should clarify here - I have done two conversions at this point, one where I did the QS into the ICE motor, and one where I put my EM ePure powertrain into a 300 chassis. The EM does have the idle mode, and is generally pretty great, although I think shortening the gearing will really help, because I've added a lot of weight to the chassis, so while you can clutch up a wheelie relatively easily, it's hard to hold it up with the gas at anything but balance point. I'm hoping that what the EM/300 conversion gives me is a woods weapon to about 30mph that encourages me to have another go at the QS/ICE conversion, because it's enjoyable enough to ride that I want to invest the time and energy to get the extra flexibility of the 6 speed.

The issue I identified with the QS/ICE build was that if I was rolling with the clutch in, I would wing the throttle open to try and get a bunch of power into the flywheel and it'd take about a half second of slow acceleration of the flywheel followed by normal acceleration, and I was assuming that was because it was limiting the change in RPM, as you said.
 
Some more observations on e vs ICE trials motor response.

I've been experimenting a bit with my e-trials now equipped with 2-speed box and a newer Fardriver that I can finally tinker with settings.
It's been quite interesting.
I'd hoped and somewhat expected that the low gear was going to significantly improve clutch response and acceleration characteristics (especially that the bike would accelerate faster but to a relatively lower top speed). I was encouraged when I saw the new controller was driving the max RPM a little higher also (7,000+ rpm on QS138 70) as this puts more energy in the flywheel.

Sadly the results aren't quite what I expected.
The clutch acceleration is certainly faster, and the ultimate wheel speed is reduced to something more reasonable for trials. But unfortunately the response from throttle is also amplified so much as to be a problem. It's savage!

I've fiddled with the acceleration settings in the controller (Fardriver allows you to set % output at each 500rpm interval) but it's made it very apparent that the problem isn't to do with the available torque, but the actual rate of motor acceleration. This fits completely with my ideas around the need for lots of flywheel inertia (real or possibly virtual).

The nub of the problem is that if I dial down the output at low RPM to something that gives nice fine control eg. once the bike stands up on the rear wheel say at the top of a step, then there isn't enough power available to accelerate from low RPM up a steep slope. If I dial up the power at lower RPM to be able to drive effectively up slopes at low speed then the acceleration becomes too brutal to control finely on one wheel.
This is absolutely a demonstration of "too much (unmoderated) power".

I've got an oil bath clutch on the bike and I hoped I might be able to overcome the low speed drive by lots of clutch slipping. But the problem is the motor becomes even more throttle/RPM sensitive when load is altered via clutch - it spins up and down too quickly in response to small changes in clutch pressure so it becomes quite hard to transition from slipping to locked smoothly. It also demands a very, very nice clutch and my fairly basic coil sprung unit just isn't really up to the task - it gets some judder and isn't really precise enough. Bottom line is the motor needs to be made smoother.
There's also a problem with getting appropriate linearity if you dial down the bottom end too far. If the low end is set to a very low % and the top end at 100% then there has to be a period of significant ramping. If that increase gets too steep then the control becomes very difficult to manage accurately as power output increases rapidly with RPM, even if throttle is held constant.

Looking at torque at it's basic level, torque in a motor is only produced if there is a reaction against some inertia. With a very large rotating mass much of the motor's available torque is absorbed by accelerating the mass, so it never really appears at the rear wheel unless the rate of increase of RPM is relatively low (when the flywheel is absorbing very little torque).
If the RPM is constant then the full torque of the motor is available. This is roughly what should happen when driving up a steep slope - very little motor acceleration, but high torque delivery.

On my e-trials even with my biggest flywheel there is simply not enough inertia in the rotating system to moderate the angular acceleration. You wind on throttle and the RPM zips straight up, accelerating the bike dramatically. Hopeless for fine control.

Switching from my e-trials to my ICE-trials is just so dramatic. The ICE bike is infinitely more controllable. There is just no comparison.The ICE bike feels so wonderfully smooth compared to the e-trials.
In fact the e-trials is nicer to ride for many things in the high gear because the bike inertia is then more significant. But that has it's own set of well known problems.

So I'm seriously encouraged that I'm on the right path trying to develop a throttle interceptor that controls motor output in relation to rate of change of RPM. I just need to spend more time getting it working!
Or I need to fit a much larger flywheel!

I'd love to put an ICE trials motor on a dyno and get a set of figures for more or less steady state torque, then a couple of other sets for accelerating quickly, one at moderate load and one at very low load. I figure then it would be possible to setup some limits for maximum torque at various RPM ranges, and also a profile for maximum rate of RPM change. That should fairly closely emulate an ICE bike and from there we could start to explore how to improve upon the current "state-of-the-art".

It may even be sufficient to do a dyno run on an inertia dyno with a very large flywheel, then do a no-load acceleration recording just RPM curve. I just need to get someone with a dyno interested!
 
Torque or speed throttle? I played with a "throttle tamer" a bit on a speed throttle setup before it crapped out. It was a game changer on the e-bike it was on at higher power levels I was plying with. Too bad, I could not get another one to replace it and can not find much info on it anylonger. Simple circuit with a few trim pots. Is your flywheel spinning motor speeds? If not, the two factors dialed in may make a huge difference IMO.

found this link Throttle interface for sensitive high power setups
 
I am not doing any of the fine tuned riding you do on a trials bike, but I also found the throttle control on fardriver to be rather crude. If I turn down the response (the one that goes to 224 or something like that) I got a delay that I didnt like at all. There was also steps I think, so the difference was more then the throttle twist at some points.
It would also loose traction violently when accelerating on slippery surfaces like wet mountain, (or just going up wet mountain) often resulting in 90 or even a 180 degree turn and often a crash.
I think the vesc based 3shul I have now is much more controllable, but at the cost of loosing some of that aggressive throttle response when you actually want it.
 
I am not doing any of the fine tuned riding you do on a trials bike, but I also found the throttle control on fardriver to be rather crude. If I turn down the response (the one that goes to 224 or something like that) I got a delay that I didnt like at all. There was also steps I think, so the difference was more then the throttle twist at some points.
It would also loose traction violently when accelerating on slippery surfaces like wet mountain, (or just going up wet mountain) often resulting in 90 or even a 180 degree turn and often a crash.
I think the vesc based 3shul I have now is much more controllable, but at the cost of loosing some of that aggressive throttle response when you actually want it.
Too bad the throttle tamer is no longer available. My build was much as you described when I installed the much larger (Oversized) controller. Slightest twist would lift the front wheel or flip it, if you were sitting upright. I ended up reaching for a clutch ( no clutch on the e-bike) often in tighter trails. Frustrating to say the least.

With the tamer, I was able to dial in ramps that could hold a slight wheelie much like a 125cc racing bike or dial it up to feel like a big bore racing bike, as well as calm it down to a pleasant trail riding machine. Unfortunately, playing with overvolting fried it along with a nice controller.
 
Too bad the throttle tamer is no longer available.

If it helps, TommyCat is working on an analog version of something like the Tamer.

I don't have a link ATM, but there was some relatively recent thread for a tamer type device that you could change the curve for on a setup program on the computer. I don't recall how far the project got or if sources were available for it to build one.
 
@speedmd, @j bjork & @amberwolf - thanks for those comments and the links. From what I can tell all of these work on simply ramping current and hence torque. That's definitely not what I want, it just doesn't give the control response that's needed for trials.
My controller is torque control, which I believe is the preferred mode. The flywheel is direct on the motor shaft.

I think the key thing to recognise is that when you open a throttle on a motor with significant flywheel inertia (enough that it takes say 3-4 seconds to reach max RPM) then the output torque is completely different if the wheel has high load on it compared to if it has low load.
At high load the acceleration is going to be very low, which means pretty much full motor torque will be transmitted to the wheel because the flywheel isn't absorbing much energy.
If the wheel has low load then the acceleration will be higher, but significantly moderated by the fact that the flywheel is absorbing energy.
So the throttle response is inherently load dependent. Effectively there is a sliding scale of torque response depending on the load on the wheel. A single throttle ramp setting just doesn't cut it.

My thinking is that in basic function the flywheel is an RPM control system. So if I roughly replicate the RPM response of a flywheel I will roughly replicate the torque response also. Obviously more to it than that, but that's the basic idea.

Of course this is coming from the position that current ICE trials bikes are state-of-the-art, so replicating their behaviour is the best starting point.
 
@speedmd, @j bjork & @amberwolf - thanks for those comments and the links. From what I can tell all of these work on simply ramping current and hence torque. That's definitely not what I want,
I know; I was just pointing speedmd to potential replacements for their system(s) since their tamer is fried. ;)
 
Too bad pete this little device is no longer available. It had three pots. One was a start voltage dial in if I recall and the other two worked together to dial in some really good throttle feel. Worth digging into this for certain IMO. Only area I found it still got into a bit of trouble was in a stall position with a slight throttle but not enough torque to give much of any movement. From there, it was timing out if balancing a bit too long and momentarily going back into what felt like devil mode!

With a clutch and massive flywheel revving up in like fashion, I don't think you would be at any loss to a chokes moto. Not a bit!
 
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