One way bearing keeps siezing

[atom1025]

This is the second one. These bearings are not capable of handling 1800 watts peak. I have been running a RC81208 one way clutch bearing. Same as found on these http://www.thesuperkids.com/19toroclpige.html

So I want a permenant solution that can handle the torque.

Whats the best approach here? Larger shaft & bearing?

Access to mill and lathe is no problem.

Adam

 

[Miles]

Adam,

Those are rated for a torque of up to around 12Nm. How much torque are you putting through it?

 

[atom1025]

I don't know. Is there an easy way to ckeck?

 

[Miles]

What's the motor? Is the clutch on the motor shaft?

[Torque in Nm = 9.549 * Watts / rpm]

Does the clutch have separate needle roller bearing support (either side of the central clutch rollers)?

 

[Grinhill]

If you can fit a larger diameter shaft (or add sleeve) and bearing while keeping the same size sprocket, you can move to one with a higher torque rating. Hardened shafts are always better if possible. :lol:

The other thing I have noticed with my one-way rollers is that grime tends to accumulate in them (dirt, rubber etc) which doesn't help with longevity.

 

[Miles]

You can get hardened inner rings for needle roller bearings. 12mm ID, 16mm OD would make a sleeve on the existing shaft A 16mm clutch is 22mm OD and can handle 20Nm (it needs a proper housing to reach spec....).

 

[atom1025]

Motor is a 1000w Powepack. http://www.thesuperkids.com/10wabmcbrels.html

Specs are lacking on this motor.

Sounds like a hardened sleeve is the easiest way to improve performance.

 

[mrbill]

It looks like you're using the Powerpack motor with the Currie/Lashout planetary housing. I recommend upgrading the planetary housing to the version available from Scott McGregor at EVDeals.

http://evdeals.com/USPD%20Drive%20Parts.htm

Scott uses an 18mm shaft and rollerbearing clutch (HF1816) that should be within spec if your controller is limited to about 40A, assuming you are using the Matex 4.8:1 planetary gearbox. I also recommend you avoid placing significant radial load on the clutched sprocket as these clutches have no adjacent rollerbearings to bear radial load. There is insufficient space in the planetary housing. Adjust your motor drive chain to be slightly slack. It should be taught on the drive side only when loaded by the motor, slightly loose otherwise.

 

[atom1025]

That's fantastic! A simple ready made improvement. The pricing seems steep though.

I am going to press a hardened sleeve on the existing shaft and bore the hub to accept larger bearing.

 

[mrbill]

That's fantastic! A simple ready made improvement. The pricing seems steep though.

I am going to press a hardened sleeve on the existing shaft and bore the hub to accept larger bearing.

This motor and gearbox was sold to many users over the last 15 years, enough to create an aftermarket for improved versions.

Yes, the price is steep, but the service is top-notch and prompt.

I recommend Scott's improved housing for more than just the fatter output shaft. The brass bushing on the stock housing wears quickly and causes extra energy loss. The improved housing uses a proper bearing. One can feel the difference. The stock housing is hot after running for a while, but the improved housing is rarely more than barely warm, in my experience.

http://mrbill.homeip.net/hybridBike.php#M1_gearbox_study

 

[mat h physics]

It may help to use the proper term, search SPRAG CLUTCH: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch

Though it may be off topic here is an Easter egg for the board: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuclear_weapon_design#Clean_bombs
:lol:

 

[Miles]

It may help to use the proper term, search SPRAG CLUTCH: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch

But it isn't a sprag clutch.....

 

[rkosiorek]

The EV-Deals gearbox is worth the extra money. ball bearings on the output shaft, 18mm roller clutch. all good touches that add reliability. if you are going to the trouble of adding the larger roller clutch to the shaft, I'd recommend adding a ball bearing as well.

I used one of the 1000W BMC motors with a 40A Crystalyte Analog controller a couple of years ago. it has not failed yet.

i'm in the process of mounting one of those 1000W motors with a PowerPac controller to a bike frame to run through a NuVinci Dev Kit at the moment.

rick

 

[atom1025]

Went ahead and ordered the housing with 18mm clutch from Scott at evdeals. I was put off by the price but let me tell ya it was money well spent. Took less then 30mins at a casual pace to swap out. I immediately took it for a spin and was pleased to find the results. Fist observation was the sound was lower. Obviously the old gears had some miles on it... I also noted a 2mph increase to the top end speed. This has obviously increased efficiency. Money well spent!

I love my stupid synergy bike! Its too small for me and the shocks are worthless but for some reason I can't find a replacement that fits me the way this does. Plus I can pedal this 70lb behemoth like a regular bike. I personally don't notice the weight and avg 14mph pedaling on the flat trails.

I highly recommend synergy/lashout/rayos electric bike when its purchased used for less then $300. They are easy to modify and work on. Lots of replacement parts available. Replacing back tube is no different then standard bike. The con would be there appears to me no of the shelf drop ins capable of sustaing more then 1200w continiously. The powerpack 1000w is the best drop in upgrade I have found....actually the only.



Adam

 

[spinningmagnets]

The improved housing uses a proper bearing. One can feel the difference. The stock housing is hot after running for a while, but the improved housing is rarely more than barely warm

You really should have a hardened shaft, but the heat of not using a proper bearing will burn away any factory lubrication, causing the seizing. The extra diameter on the replacement shaft will slightly reduce individual roller loads (same torque, spread across more clutch rollers), always a good thing...