Opened My 35a controller and... SIX! x irfb4310 Fets STOCK
- Thread starter BiGH
- Start date
The7 said:
Unfortunately I don't have one of these controllers physically on hand to see what components are and aren't actually soldered on the board. But what I do remember is that a lot of the header pads were unused and not wired to anything. Probably things like key interlocks, brake cutouts, pedal motion sensors etc. The ABS signal goes to pin 22 of the microchip, which is labelled as either an AGND or P2(4).
Justin
We're going to have to try and read the code out of the chip to see if it can be decyphered. 
>However i do wonder if it would be possible to have a PIC run the
>phases, and adjust the timing etc.
There are several PIC's available that would work well for this. The dsPIC30F4011, for example, have a three phase BLDC controller built in.
>would this allow a higher top speed-
> by advancing the phases to take into account increased rotational speed?
Phase advance can indeed do this but you introduce some new problems (like very strong regen if you back off on the throttle.)
>phases, and adjust the timing etc.
There are several PIC's available that would work well for this. The dsPIC30F4011, for example, have a three phase BLDC controller built in.
>would this allow a higher top speed-
> by advancing the phases to take into account increased rotational speed?
Phase advance can indeed do this but you introduce some new problems (like very strong regen if you back off on the throttle.)
GGoodrum
1 MW
I recently bought what was supposed to be another Crystalyte 4840 controller from Electricrider. What I got was this, which I have mounted on one of my folding bikes:
I was told that this is the new design for these controllers. Is this the same as the one you all are referring to here? If so, does that mean I can probably run this controller with a higher voltage setup, like 66V using DeWalt packs in series?
TIA. I'm still trying to play catch-up here.
-- Gary
I was told that this is the new design for these controllers. Is this the same as the one you all are referring to here? If so, does that mean I can probably run this controller with a higher voltage setup, like 66V using DeWalt packs in series?
TIA. I'm still trying to play catch-up here.
-- Gary
BiGH
100 kW
Gary,
That looks the same as the one i have (had - i killed it)
the best way to do it is to open it up and read the number of the fets (your supplier should also know).
be careful when u open it up those little suckers are sensitive to static.
Take Care,
Haydon
That looks the same as the one i have (had - i killed it
)the best way to do it is to open it up and read the number of the fets (your supplier should also know).
be careful when u open it up those little suckers are sensitive to static.
Take Care,
Haydon
GGoodrum
1 MW
Thanks, Haydon, I will check this out today. If it does, in fact, have the 4310s, would this be good to go for trying a higher voltage setup do you think? I'm re-doing my two DeWalt mounts today, to add the BMS-enabling resistor networks, and I really want to try these on my Port Runner, which has this controller on it.
Assuming it works, I'll probably "downsize" to 5304/Cruiser, and move it to the rear. The 5303/Racer that is on there now already has way more top-end than I need on the existing 16s/50V setup.
Going 40 mph+ on something without a suspension, and 1-1/2 inch tires, is just not something I really want to do on purpose. The one and only time I tried, it took ten minutes before I could let go of the seat. Besides, I'm a big guy (6-3/250 pounds...) and if I hit the ground going that fast, they'll have to send out the road crews to fix the sink hole I'll make. In any case, if I am able to run a 20s a123 setup (i.e. -- two DeWalts in series...), I will want to use the lower kV'd 5304.
Although I've been a proponent of having the motor up front, and the packs in back, for balance reasons, with the folding bikes I have changed my mind. I'm still going to have the packs in back, but I have found it is a lot more awkward to fold the bikes up with the heavy motor up front.
-- Gary
Assuming it works, I'll probably "downsize" to 5304/Cruiser, and move it to the rear. The 5303/Racer that is on there now already has way more top-end than I need on the existing 16s/50V setup.
Going 40 mph+ on something without a suspension, and 1-1/2 inch tires, is just not something I really want to do on purpose. The one and only time I tried, it took ten minutes before I could let go of the seat. Besides, I'm a big guy (6-3/250 pounds...) and if I hit the ground going that fast, they'll have to send out the road crews to fix the sink hole I'll make. In any case, if I am able to run a 20s a123 setup (i.e. -- two DeWalts in series...), I will want to use the lower kV'd 5304.Although I've been a proponent of having the motor up front, and the packs in back, for balance reasons, with the folding bikes I have changed my mind. I'm still going to have the packs in back, but I have found it is a lot more awkward to fold the bikes up with the heavy motor up front.
-- Gary
rsisson
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
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- 124
Due to my own stupidity, I fried my new 4840.
Its the new one with 6 Fets... marked 4850...
I toasted some resistors and probably some FETs when my Hall effect connector was pulled apart on a crash (Didn't tie-wrap stuff down well enough)
I am looking for someone to repair the controller if it is worth it.
My Eye sight isn't good enough anymore to deal with SM stuff, and I gave up most of my diag tools a while back.
Anyone up to trying to fix a new rev 4850 ?
Bob
Its the new one with 6 Fets... marked 4850...
I toasted some resistors and probably some FETs when my Hall effect connector was pulled apart on a crash (Didn't tie-wrap stuff down well enough)
I am looking for someone to repair the controller if it is worth it.
My Eye sight isn't good enough anymore to deal with SM stuff, and I gave up most of my diag tools a while back.
Anyone up to trying to fix a new rev 4850 ?
Bob
BiGH
100 kW
GGoodrum said:Thanks, Haydon, I will check this out today. If it does, in fact, have the 4310s, would this be good to go for trying a higher voltage setup do you think? I'm re-doing my two DeWalt mounts today, to add the BMS-enabling resistor networks, and I really want to try these on my Port Runner, which has this controller on it.
Assuming it works, I'll probably "downsize" to 5304/Cruiser, and move it to the rear. The 5303/Racer that is on there now already has way more top-end than I need on the existing 16s/50V setup.
Although I've been a proponent of having the motor up front, and the packs in back, for balance reasons, with the folding bikes I have changed my mind. I'm still going to have the packs in back, but I have found it is a lot more awkward to fold the bikes up with the heavy motor up front.
-- Gary
Yeah i think you could run right up to actual 100v fully charged. its also interesting to note the new 4110 controlllers at ebikes.ca!
GGoodrum
1 MW
BiGH said:
I got Bob Mcree to repair a 4840 controller for me, that wasn't working right (it had a bad processor chip...) and while he was at it, I had him also do the 4110 upgrade. I finally got to test this today and oh my god, it blew me away! Bob also filled in one of the shunt areas, which boosted the current limit to something between 80 and 90A. I was hitting peaks of 5551W/87A!
It absolutely smoked the tire, not only from a dead stop, but also by just by goosing the throttle while underway. This was on my 20" Dahon Mariner with a front-mounted 5303 Racer and my latest 20s4p a123 setup (66V/9.2Ah...).Anyway, nothing got hot, so I can definitely see how these 4110-based controllers could be pushed even further.
-- Gary
BiGH
100 kW
thats pretty crazy - might need to put it on the rear insted and try it again!
methods
1 GW
Back from the dead.
Just because it is an interesting thread. Never found this while I was looking for instructions on installing my CA.
See page 1 for schematic if you are trying to install the throttle control on your CA. Shows the interaction between the diode you install and the series resistor for current limiting on the throttle line.
-Patrick
Just because it is an interesting thread. Never found this while I was looking for instructions on installing my CA.
See page 1 for schematic if you are trying to install the throttle control on your CA. Shows the interaction between the diode you install and the series resistor for current limiting on the throttle line.
-Patrick
Hi all-was looking at all these old posts could not find an answer to the regen issue over 60 volts. I recently switched from 52 to 72 volts li-ion and regen stopped working on my bike that had been working for years. The motor will turn off but not regen. Put it on my power supply and under 60 volts it works. Is there a fix? The controller /hub did motor is about 5 years old from HPC.
Thanks -jeff
Thanks -jeff
Blast from the past!
The microprocessor is looking at the pack voltage and limits regen when it goes above a certain voltage to protect the pack.
This parameter should be programmable in the software, but I am not familiar with that exact version and whether or not it can be programmed higher.
Inside the controller, there is a pair of tiny resistors that divide the voltage going to the MCU. If you change one of these, you can spoof the controller into thinking the battery voltage is lower. This would also affect the low voltage cutoff, so you would need some other way to protect against low pack voltage.
An even cruder approach would be to figure out a way to feed a lower voltage to the ignition wire to spoof the controller. This would be something like an analog voltage regulator with a 60v output.
Another approach would be to simply get a new controller made for that voltage that does regen. There are some nice ones out there these days.
BTW, are you in Moab?
The microprocessor is looking at the pack voltage and limits regen when it goes above a certain voltage to protect the pack.
This parameter should be programmable in the software, but I am not familiar with that exact version and whether or not it can be programmed higher.
Inside the controller, there is a pair of tiny resistors that divide the voltage going to the MCU. If you change one of these, you can spoof the controller into thinking the battery voltage is lower. This would also affect the low voltage cutoff, so you would need some other way to protect against low pack voltage.
An even cruder approach would be to figure out a way to feed a lower voltage to the ignition wire to spoof the controller. This would be something like an analog voltage regulator with a 60v output.
Another approach would be to simply get a new controller made for that voltage that does regen. There are some nice ones out there these days.
BTW, are you in Moab?
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