P-settings for URLIFE E20 ebike

[wmd1942]

I picked up a URLIFE E20 e-bike from AliExpress recently. Overall, I really like it, but I’ve noticed two things that bug me a bit:

PAS only has 3 levels (1–3), and even level 1 feels way too strong. I’d love to have 5 levels with a much weaker level 1.

The PAS sensitivity is super high. Just a tiny pedal movement kicks in the assist, which gets annoying and dangerous.

I know a lot of e-bikes have hidden “P-code” or “P-settings” menus to tweak stuff. Normally you get in by holding + and –, but that doesn’t work on the E20.

After playing around, I figured out the trick:

Enter Menu: Quick double-press Mode right after powering on
Scroll Codes: Use + / –
Edit Value: Single press Mode (value flashes)
Change Value: Use + / –
Exit Menu: Quick double-press Mode again

The menu seems kinda limited, though. Here’s what I found so far:

P1: LCD brightness (0–5)
P2: Sleep timer (off or 1–10)
P3: Units (0 = metric, 1 = imperial)
P4: Starting PAS level (0 or 1)
AO5 / A05: ??? (see below)
FAc: ???

The weird thing about AO5 is:
If I press Mode, it changes to P50 (or PS0??) with four dashes at the bottom, and I can set each dash (0–9) with +/- buttons.
Once all four digits are in, pressing Mode again just shows “Ehh” and kicks me out.

Looks like it’s waiting for some kind of passcode to unlock advanced settings.

Has anyone here cracked this yet, or figured out if deeper settings exist on the E20? Would love to tone down the PAS.

 

[pishta]

A05 could be password lock, ie put one in and it wont work unless you power on and put in password? My Walberg Xr1 "the Urban" (Gotrax G3?) has this. try 0000 and see if it takes and then asks for 0000 on power up. try posting the controller model number. My dashboard looks like a flattened hexagon.

 

[AGS]

Try passcode 2020

 

[docw009]

Did you see this Reddit post?

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/1n9b1gq

 

[wmd1942]

Yes, 2020 works. Thanks. I also found a manual in here. It seems A2 (Assistance gear selection) and A12 (Booster Start Strength) are the settings I was looking for. The strange thing is that, after changing A2 to 5, I can see the PAS levels increased to 5, but no pedal assist in levels 1-4. Also, there is no effect on A12 change (dropped to 1 from 5).

 

[wmd1942]

A05 could be password lock, ie put one in and it wont work unless you power on and put in password? My Walberg Xr1 "the Urban" (Gotrax G3?) has this. try 0000 and see if it takes and then asks for 0000 on power up. try posting the controller model number. My dashboard looks like a flattened hexagon.

Here is the controller:

 

[harshil102]

I have the same bike and I have the same issues with getting the speed limit/PAS number/initial boost/etc advanced settings to work.

I'm not sure if others noticed this but those settings also show up on my screen as A0x whereas in the manual that 0 isn't there it's just A1, A2, A3, etc. Not sure if it's related.

 

[ahubs]

Created an account just to join this discussion and share similar experience. No amount of change combinations to speed limit, PAS number, boost, amp draw, etc changes the power or speed of this bike. (the only cavate being that i also had the same experience that PAS gears at 5 results in 1-4 doing nothing and PAS gears at 9 results in no control on 'gears' 1-2, 4, 6-7 and full speed control on 'gears' 3, 5, and 9, just using PAS 3).

I'm really wanting to tame these bikes down as the 'jump' into pedal assist is dangerously strong for my wife and mother to handle. Currently have gone the route of unplugging pedal sensor and only using throttle, but I really want pedal assist only and don't care about throttle.

 

[E-HP]

Created an account just to join this discussion and share similar experience. No amount of change combinations to speed limit, PAS number, boost, amp draw, etc changes the power or speed of this bike. (the only cavate being that i also had the same experience that PAS gears at 5 results in 1-4 doing nothing and PAS gears at 9 results in no control on 'gears' 1-2, 4, 6-7 and full speed control on 'gears' 3, 5, and 9, just using PAS 3).

I'm really wanting to tame these bikes down as the 'jump' into pedal assist is dangerously strong for my wife and mother to handle. Currently have gone the route of unplugging pedal sensor and only using throttle, but I really want pedal assist only and don't care about throttle.

One option would be to use a power/current based controller rather than a speed controller. A second option, since you have a throttle input, is to use a Cycle Analyst and run PAS between it and the speed controller.

 

[wmd1942]

I'm thinking about that (1st option), too. Do you have any suggestions for a controller that could be compatible with my current one? If none can't be found, I'll consider the 2nd option. Thanks.

 

[E-HP]

I'm thinking about that (1st option), too. Do you have any suggestions for a controller that could be compatible with my current one? If none can't be found, I'll consider the 2nd option. Thanks.

KT controllers are a popular option. There's not enough info in this thread to be able to suggest a compatible option. It looks like maybe there's a physical size restriction as well. Maybe someone familiar with the bike and controller can help out.

 

[ahubs]

One option would be to use a power/current based controller rather than a speed controller. A second option, since you have a throttle input, is to use a Cycle Analyst and run PAS between it and the speed controller.

Is the controller the part you'd change? or both controller and display? (or are displays kind of a matched set and need to be swapped if/when changing controllers?)

 

[wmd1942]

I am okay with changing both the controller and display (as they're normally tied to each other). The enclosure of the controller on my bike has the following inner dimensions: 114 mm x 70 mm x 63 mm. The current controller's dimensions are: 92 mm x 63 mm x 35 mm. Its current rating is 18A, but a little less than that is ok for me. The battery voltage is 48V. My minimum goals are:

1. 5 levels of PAS (instead of 3)
2. Reduce the PAS strength on the lowest level
3. Reduce the sensitivity (or delay of detection) of pedal movement on PAS

There are so many listings in Amazon, ebay, and Aliexpress. I just don't know which one can be trusted. I'm thinking, if they function like the one I have now, why would I bother to replace it? Thanks a lot for your help.

 

[harshil102]

Created an account just to join this discussion and share similar experience. No amount of change combinations to speed limit, PAS number, boost, amp draw, etc changes the power or speed of this bike. (the only cavate being that i also had the same experience that PAS gears at 5 results in 1-4 doing nothing and PAS gears at 9 results in no control on 'gears' 1-2, 4, 6-7 and full speed control on 'gears' 3, 5, and 9, just using PAS 3).

I'm really wanting to tame these bikes down as the 'jump' into pedal assist is dangerously strong for my wife and mother to handle. Currently have gone the route of unplugging pedal sensor and only using throttle, but I really want pedal assist only and don't care about throttle.

Yeah the initial power on pedal assist is ridiculous lol. I tried to jump onto a curb yesterday. Got weight off the front and pedaled just a step to hop the front wheel onto the curb. Forgot about power assist which kicked in like it does and rammed the back wheel over the curb at full power with me leaning my full weight over the rear lol. Almost knocked me off the bike since the power also keeps going for ~2 seconds after you stop pedaling. Luckily I'm not a big guy and the tires were well inflated fat tires so just put the rear wheel very slightly out of true which I'll possibly deal with one day when replacing the rear tire if at all. Else all is fine.

But I have the same concerns as you for my wife. I'm very experienced with cycling and doing sketchy things on a bike that while I find it really irritating, I'd be able to deal with this bike's power assist. But it will likely scare my wife away.

 

[harshil102]

KT controllers are a popular option. There's not enough info in this thread to be able to suggest a compatible option. It looks like maybe there's a physical size restriction as well. Maybe someone familiar with the bike and controller can help out.

I have the bike and I am decently handy but not too familiar with the ebike world yet. Is there anything to look for to indicate controller compatibility? More than willing to take some pictures/investigate if it helps you help us lol. The screen is the CMACEWHEEL S2. Manual linked above and here is the product page: https://cmacewheel.com/cmacewheel-new-electric-bike-color-lcd/ In case that helps with controller compatibility.

I was hoping that since the options are there on the screen and in the manual for the screen that the controller just needed some settings changed or wiring fixed in order to actually account for the screen settings but I'm not sure how these controllers work yet or even if they even have any modifiable parameters.

It's frustrating that the controller does support smooth power level input/output with the throttle where I can cruise as slow as walking pace yet the mapping of pedal speed to power output and power roll on are so crude and haphazardly implemented. It seems like a simple percentage mapping of max speed to a "full" pedal speed like 40rpm would be so easy to implement. Set the base value of 15-20% power that comes on with 1rpm or whatever minimum detectable pedal speed and the power roll on is solved too.

 

[wmd1942]

The advanced programming manual was mentioned in the earlier post. However, it seems the settings that could improve are locked down by the bike manufacturer. As of now, I disconnected the cadance PAS sensor input and achieved the controllable assistance through throttle only. Looking for a suggestion to replace the controller (and display). Thanks.

 

[wmd1942]

I'm willing to utilize the open-source firmware OSF OSFW. The problem is that none of the controllers on bmsbattery.com fit my bike. S06S is only for 24/36V. S09 or S12 supports 48V battery, but their size is too big.