Photos of my 2 new ebike fat bikes - just finsihed up.

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Dec 25, 2014
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To say this has been a labor of love, would be a under statement. Building both of these electric fatbikes has taken 2-3 months. The chinese new year, dock workers strike and learning curve associated with these 2 builds ate up alot of time.

One of these is my wifes . Its a dolomite , with front mounted hub motor, the other is a bullseye gravity pro , with the bluto rockshox front suspension system, with rear mounted motor. Her bike cost me $200 , my bike cost me $950 , and then add up all the additional ebike parts, batterys , mods mistakes, etc. My bike rides simliar to a motorcycle , which is what I wanted , hers is more along the lines of a fast moped.

I modded and fabricated many of the parts myself . For example , the battery holders mounted in the middle of the bike, are made of aluminum and allow the weight distribution of the 20 lb battery to be ideal . My bike was not setup for a kickstand , but I made one work .

On another note, I have a question.

Lets say you have a battery rated for 40 amps continious and 60 amp max discharge ....is the ideal efficiency to run the bike most of the time at 40 amps or will it be more efficient at 20 amps or some other amperage draw ?
 

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can you post a closeup picture of your battery holder? I have a similar battery sitting in a rear rack and really want to figure out a way to move it to the center frame. The thing is so big and bulky - can't figure out how to do it.
 
Nice. as you can tell from my avatar picture, I'm a fan of E-Fats.

I hadn't seen anyone use the Bluto on one yet. Got more pics of that bike?

As for your battery, are you talking about controller settings? Or you actual continuous draw? For controller settings it's a mixed answer. You'll be just as efficient set at 10 amps as 1000 amps, if you're motor only needs to draw 7 to maintain your speed. However, The YEE HAA factor means that if you have more power available, you'll use it at the cost of your overall efficiency.

If you're talking about the batteries, running some batteries at their max normal discharge is no big deal, as it's artificially low and governed by the abilities of the BMS. Other batteries will be highly stressed and suffer a much shorter life from being used that way. It really depends on the battery.
 
tomtnt said:
can you post a closeup picture of your battery holder? I have a similar battery sitting in a rear rack and really want to figure out a way to move it to the center frame. The thing is so big and bulky - can't figure out how to do it.


I took measurements of the space avaliable in the middle area of both bikes . If the space isnt large enough, then you are screwed. Once I had those measurments, I ordered a lifepo4 - 48 volt- 22 ah battery with proper dimensions that would snugly fit in that area , but allow me to build a aluminum bracket system to secure the battery . The good thing is, that most bicycles have 2 predrilled threaded holes in that area, that are about 3 " apart which allows one to fasten down the bottom aluminum plate to the bike , which is the base to hold the battery. That bottom plate secures lengthwise along the frame bracket, then I cut a piece of 14" long - 2-1/2 " aluminum plate to go crossways like this :

I
I
___I___
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and I bent 1 side of that piece to a 90 degree angle to provide stability so the battery cant slide off sideways and I RIVETED that to the aluminum base plate .


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Drunkskunk said:
Neat. But why is the front fork backwards?


I fixed that already....I was experimenting with another idea that required me to do that...its not that way now.
 
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