Please HELP with identifying Mobility Scooter Parts??

Gordo

100 kW
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May 23, 2010
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THE COLD WHITE NORTHWEST, EH?
There appears to be a reduction gear, but no differential? By flipping the lever, it will freewheel. Is the freewheel in the motor housing or the reduction gear housing? I can't see where how far the shaft goes into the assembly.
Has anyone overvolted this setup as is, or do you need a new controller for even 36V?
Thanks for all input.
E-BIKE PARTS 001.jpgE-BIKE PARTS 002.jpgE-BIKE PARTS 003.jpgE-BIKE PARTS 004.jpg
 
I haven't dealt with those particular parts, but in every gearbox with a clutch/release lever I have seen so far, it's in the gearbox, and it just moves one of the gears sideways on the shaft so it no longer engages. Also, on all of those I've seen, the gear that is released is on the output shaft, so that there is no gearing resistance at all when it is released.

I expect that you'd either need to tinker with the controller for anything other than the original voltage range, or replace it. The few mobility controllers I have taken apart have varied significantly in complexity, but all had some way of cutting off for overvoltage as well as undervoltage, and the parts generally were not good for more than 30-35V (sometimes 50V on caps). For instance, there wasnt' something like the LM317 we have in ebike cotnrollers making a low-voltage supply off the pack, but rather nearly all the stuff inside ran right off the 24V pack, with a 7805 or 7812 for things that didn't. Some of these things are pretty complex inside, microcontroller-operated, and programmable if you have the hardware and software to do it (possibly not available outside the factory and any authorized service centers for the mobility scooter in question). But I doubt that programmability includes operation at other than the original voltage range.

Mostly, I think the reason is that the things need to be bulletproof, and one way to protect stuff better is to put limits in it that unfortunatley also keep the average person from overvolting/etc.
 
Hi Gordo,

You can buy a cheap controller for it and that can be turn into an upright scooter, with the third wheel at the back for steering or two wheels at the back close together for better stability. some thing like this but i think this has two hubs and use it for differential steering http://www.frugaldelight.com/images/scooterND.jpg

Just project idea :)

Zenon
 
That scooter is called a Pace Saver. Yea, it's just a gearbox with no differential. The lever is actually an electro-magnetic brake that will release when you flip that lever or when 24v is applied to it. Over-volting almost never works with these mobility scooters. Sometimes you can overvolt to 30v, but 36 will almost always fry it and even when it doesn't, the throttle input usually gets pretty wonky. The motor, on the other hand, can usually take 36 with ease. That used to be a fairly common scooter back in the day. They are easy to get for free now, so I say just give it a shot and see what happens.
 
Forgot to mention, you can leave that brake on and then apply 24v to it whenever you want to use it, or you can take it right off and the motor will freewheel all the time.
 
Thanks for all the replies. The neatest result was a PM giving me two more scooters. I was not intending to shake this tree, but very happy that two more fell out. Now for an off the wall first build, it will be a line puller for my boat. Our large local shrimp (8-10 to the Kg) are found at 100-120 meters (@ 360 feet) We are allow two lines with 2 traps each, so it is a quite a grunt to get your supper. 24V will be perfect and with isolators, I can charge the two gel cells off the alternator. With 0-300' per minute available, one rear wheel working as a windlass should be perfect.
Eating shrimp instead of using a Segway to bounce my noggin off a wall, will have to do for a first build.

http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE68Q3LU20100927
 
Great idea I guess those original hubs are not big enough to spool the 400 feet of string . Plus I can have shrimp next
time I drop by :)

Zenon
 
I work in a shop fixing those things. Mettler is right,it's a rear diff. with an electric and mechanical parking brake,and the motor controller does the braking of the scooter with regeneration,the motor is the only brake on those things when riding or going down steep hills.They don't go very fast,and have a 30-50 amp circuit breaker and a 24v system. Lots of power but slow.Hard but maybe not impossible to wire in a different controller the entire electrical system is interconnected.You might get away with 36v or 48v at your own risk,if you can figure out how to rewire the whole thing,but it may still be too slow...
 
What are you trying to do with that thing? Make it go faster? Instead of raising the voltage, fit larger diameter wheels/tires!
 
If you can adapt larger,maybe 20" or 24" wheels to it you'd have some speed and you could use the original controller,but that controller will need the original throttle assy. for it,and the battery charger plugin,because they all work through the controller.
Maybe you can used a 36v-35a ebike controller and throttle,but you'll have to rig the electric parking brake to function or disable it,and also the electric braking won't work with this setup...
I'm just tossing some ideas... :D
 
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