pop bottle shrink wrap

EVan

10 W
Joined
Jun 3, 2010
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65
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Scotland
I read this idea here somewhere but couldn't find the thread. Anyway with the BMS I just got from alswiseowl I wanted to try that, and here it is:

IMG_1711.jpg


2L lemonade bottle, heatgun, job done!

In fact I will do it again after tidying up the wiring and maybe trap the BMS in it as well. But it looks good and it's pretty tight.
 
John in CR said:
Evan,

That's great. Does the PET bottle become brittle at all after shrinking it?


Yes, weaker, every time it's heated it degrades a bit. The best bottles to choose would be bottled water bottles, which as a bonus re-melt at a lower temp due to the CHDM added to let them be formed at lower temps to avoid the funny tastes would would get from the forming process that isn't as critical with sodas that mask the flavors.


Here is some info about it:

Degradation

PET is subject to various types of degradations during processing. The main degradations that can occur are hydrolytic, thermal and probably most important thermal oxidation. When PET degrades, several things happen: discoloration, chain scissions resulting in reduced molecular weight, formation of acetaldehyde and cross-links ("gel" or "fish-eye" formation). Discoloration is due to the formation of various chromophoric systems following prolonged thermal treatment at elevated temperatures. This becomes a problem when the optical requirements of the polymer are very high, such as in packaging applications. Acetaldehyde is normally a colorless, volatile substance with a fruity smell. It forms naturally in fruit, but it can cause an off-taste in bottled water. Acetaldehyde forms in PET through the "abuse" of the material. High temperatures (PET decomposes above 300 °C or 570 °F), high pressures, extruder speeds (excessive shear flow raises temperature) and long barrel residence times all contribute to the production of acetaldehyde. When acetaldehyde is produced, some of it remains dissolved in the walls of a container and then diffuses into the product stored inside, altering the taste and aroma. This is not such a problem for non-consumables (such as shampoo), for fruit juices (which already contain acetaldehyde), or for strong-tasting drinks like soft drinks. For bottled water, however, low acetaldehyde content is quite important, because if nothing masks the aroma, even extremely low concentrations (10–20 parts per billion in the water) of acetaldehyde can produce an off-taste. The thermal and thermooxidative degradation results in poor processability characteristics and performance of the material.
One way to alleviate this is to use a copolymer. Comonomers such as CHDM or isophthalic acid lower the melting temperature and reduce the degree of crystallinity of PET (especially important when the material is used for bottle manufacturing). Thus the resin can be plastically formed at lower temperatures and/or with lower force. This helps to prevent degradation, reducing the acetaldehyde content of the finished product to an acceptable (that is, unnoticeable) level. See copolymers, above.
Other ways to improve the stability of the polymer is by using stabilizers, mainly antioxidants such as phosphites. Recently, molecular level stabilization of the material using nanostructured chemicals has also been considered.
 
What did the bottle look like before? Is it a standard round 2L pop bottle with the top and bottom cut off?

Katou
 
Thanks LFP. That kind of shoots down my idea for a cheap and easy waterproof job for a pack using a pair of 2 or 3 liter soft drink bottles...One over each end, and seal where they overlap and at the holes for wires.
 
katou said:
What did the bottle look like before? Is it a standard round 2L pop bottle with the top and bottom cut off?

Exactly Katou. Use a bigger bottle for a wider pack.

It may be a little more brittle now but is very strong, you certainly can't snap it by bending.

You know those stupidly-difficult-to-get-into blister packages on tools and things? It's like that only stronger, probably the same plastic.

I'm going to do my other packs this way, it's a million times better than duct tape, and has advantages over the thin heatshrink, less likely to rub through and cause a short. Also transparent is nice!
 
EVan said:
...it's a million times better than duct tape...

Maybe after you take a million broadsides by an ocean wave you can say that, and even then the ease of working with duct tape and being adhesive on one side, would probably get you back to maybe 100 times better at best. Don't forget my duct tape packs took an ocean wave broadside, and quite a few miles of wet sandy beach riding, and rain and road spray for a year and a half. Then there's my lead batt pack sealed with duct tape, placed inside a surfboard in what was supposed to be a watertight compartment, which was anything but. I retrieved that pack from an inch of saltwater that it rested in for several hours protected only by duct tape, and not short. The only thing a million times better than duct tape is really good sex, the kind of encounter you remember in detail all of your life. :mrgreen:

I'm not talking about that imitation stuff that a puff of wind can blow loose. I'm talking about the kind that if someone got a piece stuck in their hair, the only solution is shaving their head.

OTOH, if you're saying the soda bottle's fatigue limit doesn't seem to have changed much (not more brittle from bending it back and forth), then you're on to something. Regardless, thanks for sharing. I've been wanting a way to put plastic bottles to use other than recycling. Duct take and soda bottles sounds like a winner.

John

ps- That doesn't mean I don't think duct tape is ugly and has no business being visible on our ebikes. It's just a very useful material we can use.
 
Why not use duct tape and pet. How did you heat it without damaging the batteries?
 
Yeah I posted it in the 'salvaging LiFePo4 batteries' thread - glad to see it was of some use to someone.

And yep - the water bottles work better at lower temperatures.

Best gaffa I have come across is Nashua 357 - although they are using thinner fibres in it now.
 
maydaverave said:
Why not use duct tape and pet. How did you heat it without damaging the batteries?

Hot air gun. It's only applied for a few seconds, the batteries are warmed slightly but nowhere near dangerous temperatures.
 
Excellent work there mate top job!

John in CR said:
ps- That doesn't mean I don't think duct tape is ugly and has no business being visible on our ebikes.

Nice "save" there John :mrgreen: It is very useful product the digital and urban camouflage duct tape doesn't look to bad either TBH.

KiM
 
heathyoung said:
Best gaffa I have come across is Nashua 357 - although they are using thinner fibres in it now.


The Nashua company makes some damn good tapes. When I was crewing for a buddy doing an enduro race, his upper radiator hose got chaffed clear through by one of his charge-pipe clamps that had the tension screw very poorly clocked. He got it to the pits in a steaming mess, we didn't have a spare hose, i frantically wrapped about a quarter roll of some Nashua tape around the hole, then tightened down 2 hose clamps over it as fast as possible while a friend was topping it off with coolant.

Aside from both of us getting blisters all over our hands from working in the steaming coolant, the repair actually held up for the rest of the enduro!
 
That's a really nifty idea; I've melted bottles by accident before, so I don't know why I never thought of that! :shock:

Suddenly lots of possibilities are popping into my sleepy brain. Let's see if I remember them when I wake up. :)
 
amberwolf said:
That's a really nifty idea; I've melted bottles by accident before, so I don't know why I never thought of that!

Indeedy Amber sheesh your slipping in your ReThink, RePurpose, ReUse.â„¢ buddy step it up mate step it uuuup!!! hehee

KiM
 
My turnigy watt meters get dodgy in the rain. Wonder if a 20oz bottle would shrink small enough to make them waterproof. Wonder if they will overheat then. I suppose I could make some kind of standoff on the back of them to still allow air circulation.

Great idea with lots of possibilities, thanks!

Gary
 
Years ago I took a Adult Edu. class on vacuum forming plastic, a suitcase Mfg. donated a pile of plastic cut-offs, it turned out the forming oven temp. was about 300+ F. (to 375). About 10 min in the oven and the plastic was ready to be formed. I you made a mistake you could put it back in the oven and then reform it, leave it in the oven for abut one hour, take it out let it cool, drop it on the concrete floor, and it shattered like a piece of glass. The instructor's comment was that, would happen when all of the plastisiser (sp) was boiled away.
 
Quick Question!

How much does the bottle shrink when heated? Heat shrink tubing has a ratio of approximately 2:1.

I'm assuming that the shrinkage is not that great, or is it? Also, are you concerned about the off-gassing that the PET produces?

Thanks,
Ambrose
 
You want a good fit before shrinking or the bottle wrinkles and overheats before it tightens down enough. It's not as much shrinkage as real heatshrink but as I say it's tougher stuff and well, it's free. Give it a go!
 
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