So...I've got a Presta rim on my bike (going to be conversion), and I'm debating if I want to go for schrader tubes and wanted to get your opinions on (carefully!) drilling out the hole to fit a schrader valve. I've seen other people have done it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3-8rkazaOw), and it's only 2mm larger. What are your thoughts? Reasonable safe (as long as I'm careful), or asking for trouble? Hub motor (@44.4v nominal, MXUS XF07) is going to go on the front wheel.
Presta -> Schrader rim?
- Thread starter Drizzt321
- Start date
tomjasz
1 GW
I find presta to be a pain. I was always losing the adapterfor standard nozzles. I found Continental 40mm steel stem Schrader tubes with the lock ring to be the most reliable tubes. YMMV.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
I do it to most all of my bikes. Schrader is just easier to service, easier to fill, often weigh less, and are easier to live with.
The only thing Presta is good for is use on very narrow rims. If you happen to carry a hand pump, a presta pump is smaller, easier, and faster to use because of the way the Presta valve works compared to a Schrader. However, you're only saving grams and seconds on a device you might never use. You might have wasted more seconds of your life reading my explanation than you will ever save in your lifetime by using Presta for faster tire inflation.
The only thing Presta is good for is use on very narrow rims. If you happen to carry a hand pump, a presta pump is smaller, easier, and faster to use because of the way the Presta valve works compared to a Schrader. However, you're only saving grams and seconds on a device you might never use. You might have wasted more seconds of your life reading my explanation than you will ever save in your lifetime by using Presta for faster tire inflation.
Ypedal
100 TW
Same here... when ever i come across presta i drill them out...
Voltron
1 MW
The rotational weight savings and ease of going to 120 psi makes the Presta valve the winner.... on a high performance human powered road bike anyway. Schwalbe even has a new tube with a clear plastic Presta valve...no metal at all. Valve adaptors are going the way of the past too, as most new pumps do both valves in one head.
But on a heavy ebike with maybe 50 psi and hopefully a double wall rim, drill em out and it won't change things much.
But on a heavy ebike with maybe 50 psi and hopefully a double wall rim, drill em out and it won't change things much.
Alan B
100 GW
I've used a reamer rather than a drill for this task. Takes a little longer but easy to do and less risk of messing anything up.
dogman dan
1 PW
Cant get chunky slime through a presta valve, is why I Schrader.
Do wish they would wake up though, and realize there are deeper rims now, and make the standard Schrader longer.
Do wish they would wake up though, and realize there are deeper rims now, and make the standard Schrader longer.
Make sure you clean up any burs thoroughly. 8)
I'm a presta guy, one advantage I find that has not been mentioned is that at low pressures, either by choice or if you get an unnoticed slow leak, you can spin the tire on the rim and tear the valve out of the tube. With a locknut, this isn't an issue with presta.
In the old days, you could find DH schrader tubes with metal stems and lock nuts, I'm not sure if anyone still makes them.
I'm a presta guy, one advantage I find that has not been mentioned is that at low pressures, either by choice or if you get an unnoticed slow leak, you can spin the tire on the rim and tear the valve out of the tube. With a locknut, this isn't an issue with presta.
In the old days, you could find DH schrader tubes with metal stems and lock nuts, I'm not sure if anyone still makes them.
Alan B
100 GW
Many schrader tubes have the locknut as well.
Of course if the tire is slipping on the rim the tube may be damaged anyway, even if valve is bolted down.
Of course if the tire is slipping on the rim the tube may be damaged anyway, even if valve is bolted down.
skeetab5780
1 MW
I drill them out and put a Schrader in. Just got a new 15mm thru axle front wheel I did it too. Its like 24-27mm wide I think
nutnspecial
10 MW
Drizz, I'm not sure if these are the same thing as the reamer Alan mentioned, but they are a great addition to your tools. Excellent for light countersinking/chamfered holes, enlarging holes, and holes in fiberglass and plastic too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-bit-set-3-pc-60379.html
Yes, I also drilled mine. Thicker tubes and slime, but harder to find the threaded stem if you want one for low pressures.
http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-bit-set-3-pc-60379.html
Yes, I also drilled mine. Thicker tubes and slime, but harder to find the threaded stem if you want one for low pressures.
I ran nothing but Presta for 40 years, but switched to Schrader for my first electric, to make using Stan's sealant easier. Worked in a bike shop and have pumped up thousands of both. Most pumps have dual pump heads. The Schrader side has a pin to depress the valve, making the argument about harder pumping bogus. Michelin, Continental, Schwalbe and others offer externally threaded, nutted Schrader valves. The only real advantage I have ever found for Presta is the ability to let the air out quickly, without having to remove the valve core.
A tapered reamer is the best tool for opening the holes in the rim.
http://www.jensonusa.com/KBC-Tapered-Hand-Reamer
A tapered reamer is the best tool for opening the holes in the rim.
http://www.jensonusa.com/KBC-Tapered-Hand-Reamer
Chalo
100 TW
The only reason to have Presta valves is to keep more integrity in a very narrow rim. That's it; all other differences from Schrader valves are disadvantages.
If your rim is 24mm or narrower, consider keeping Presta valves to minimize the weak spot created by the valve hole. If it's wider, drill it out. Drill size is 11/32".
If your rim is 24mm or narrower, consider keeping Presta valves to minimize the weak spot created by the valve hole. If it's wider, drill it out. Drill size is 11/32".
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