Here's my experience programming a Bafang 750w BBS02.
Perhaps some will remember me and my Currie USPD I ran for 20 years.
Three years on lead-acid, 8 years on NiMH, then 9 years on LiPo.
I'm in the final testing stages of my LiPo system for the 24V Currie. I'm using Hobby King 3s and 4s 5AH Turnigy packs configured 7s3p 15AH. Fits in the Currie box. BMS schematic and PCB attached. Photos to come. Uses an Arduino Nano microcontroller. Here are initial limits I've set: High...
endless-sphere.com
I've been running the Bafang bone stock on a Schwinn Frontier MTB for 10 months and 860 miles.
It's so much better than the Currie; I decided to just take some time and enjoy the turn-key experience.
I ordered a programming cable from Luna and spent a few days reading this long thread in the meantime.
The cable was delivered today.
I fully embrace the Bafang characteristic of setting the cadence, like cruise control.
I let it set a comfortable pace while I pedal with a level of force that's easy on my 62 y.o. knees.
After getting the (flawless Luna) cable set up and working, the first thing I played with was Throttle - End Voltage.
While still in Speed Mode, I found the highest value that still reaches full speed, to minimize throttle dead zone.
Later, I switched to Current Mode; level 9 available at the flick of the thumb is a game changer for city riding.
On the Basic tab I lowered current limit from 24 to 22A, out of caution
My go to level up to now was PAS 2; PAS 3 was a bit brisk unless the battery is run down some.
I picked PAS 3 to be where PAS 2 was.
PAS 2-8 now have Speed Limit values closely spaced, so I can fine tune cadence on hills and compensate for battery sag.
Before, PAS 5-8 were useless to me: cadence too fast; and I'd just go to 9 when I wanted some zip with the throttle.
I lowered Stop Delay from 25 to 10, which nearly eliminated the feel of run-on when I stop pedaling.
Settings updated 7/2/23: