Kingfish
100 MW
Hi Lemlux; that would make sense. Using the bike frame puts the wheel behind the axle at least 14†(minimum clearance) + 30†(minimum length of frame from head to rear axle).
Brief status:
Brief status:
- The project is officially moving forward with the purchase this week of quantity two of the 12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition. Also I ordered up another set of Rear LED Taillights and Turn Signals for the trailer; duplicates of what I have for the ebike.
- I am close to placing my order with ChainReaction in the UK for the frame and associated parts; it’s free shipping if the amount is over $250, so I want to get as much in from them as possible. The sticking point is the Mavic EX271 rim:
- I mistakenly bought the EX729 Disc rim and mounted a 9C 2806 FH to it, not realizing I have rim brakes. The order must have been placed on the day I skipped breakfast and subsequently spaced out. Thread: Rim Brake on a Disc Rim.
- This has led to exploring if one can just swap out the cover and convert it to disc, although I fear it might be a lost cause. Otherwise the options are to either buy a disc hub motor or a Vee-Brake capable rim and then swap that out. Regardless it is a money pit: Whatever the outcome, I’ll still need to fetch a 9C 2806 RH; the only rear hub motor that I have was taken apart to stuff 10-AWG wires through it. Thread: DIY 10awg phase leads through axle in 9C hubmotor.
Sadly I honed the hole out to make enough room to put the wires through and now I don’t trust the axle to handle the weight and shock. In the end, this mod was unnecessary because I am not pushing enough current into the motor to be worth it. Anyways, I’ll need a new RH. Already have the rim for it: Kris Holm 24†Mountain. That will be mated to a 24†Maxxis Hookworm (already stocked). So the wheel business is almost sorted.
- The electrical system will be modified shortly. I have all the parts I need now – sans the two controllers which should arrive this week. Partial Thread: Advancing the state of Ebike Electrical Wiring. The difference here is that I will need to decide where the 2nd controller will live: On the trailer or on the ebike. If it’s on the trailer then I’ll need to pass all the signal wires and power over with connectors. Or if I leave the controller on the ebike, then it’s just 3-phase and Halls (as well as the brake/signals). The latter option pretty well keeps it simple.
- Speculating: The VKP60M312 DC-DC converter puts out 60W total. I figure the 3.3V circuit driving the LED blinkies and headlights won’t take more than 2A, but let’s say it takes up to 3A/10W. That leaves 50W to drive the 12V circuits, LED brakes and signals. I am guessing that the 12V regulator on the controller does not push beyond the maximum limit at 1.5A each (times two), but if it did, that’s 3A @ 12V = 36W.
The part that I don’t know is the current draw of the signals and brakes, though it can be measured. The question I have is what formula should I use to determine the proper capacitor size to assuage the voltage drop during signaling/braking?