Question about wiring up a kelly controller?

[Jay64]

Time for me to start working on wiring up my controller. I know I am going to have a few questions on this one, the contactor was hard enough. :lol: I got a Kelly KD72401,18-90V,400A,PM with Regen controller. I am going to be using it with a Mars Etek RT motor. I guess my first question would be how do you guys connect to the large lugs on the controller? The B+, B-, and M- ones. They are quite large, so I am assuming there isn't a slip on connector for that. I was thinking that I would just use a bolt and nut to secure a looped connector onto them. Is that the best way? Seems to make sense to me, but I just don't want to find out later I did it assbackwards. Also, the manual makes a distinction between PM motor controller standard wiring, and 72v PM motor controller alternative wiring. However, they don't specify anything about this. Is the only difference if you are going to be running 72v as compared to running less volts? I mean, why would I use one compared to the other, besides the amount of volts I would be running? Also, the manual shows wiring for a 0-5k ohm throttle, and wiring for a 0-5v throttle as part of the same schematic. Do I just use one of these depending on which throttle I got or do I some how need both???

Once again, I already have the contoller and motor, so I am not at this point asking about which ones to get, but rather just how to wire them together.

 

[Jay64]

Another question. Would it be alright to open the wholes slightly larger on the b+, b-, M- lugs? If it is alright to use a bolt and nut, I wanted to use a 1/4" bolt, but it is slightly too big for the hole in the lug.

 

[Jozzer]

hi Jay,
Yes, bolt on the cables using crimp ring terminals (also from welding supplies, look like this, though these are the wrong size, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10mm-Ring-Crimp-Terminal-M10-Ideal-for-battery-Conns_W0QQitemZ170244779246QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170244779246 ).
It should be fine to drill the holes slightly, though metric bolts fit nicely!

The difference between the 2 wiring diagrams, is that at 72v you need to feed the PWR pin (small spade conn) with less than 48v I believe. I take a lead from the middle of the battery pack for this, current drawn is way too low to affect battery balancing..

For throttle, Just use the pins corresponding to the throttle type..

Good luck! Gunna power it today?

 

[oatnet]

What Jozzer said <grin>.

Initially they said that the controller logic power lead should be <36/48v. Later I think that was retracted, 72v is OK. I stuck with 36v just to be safe.

Don't know if this helps, but here is the path I went down on my Kelly install:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3415&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

-JD

 

[Jay64]

Jozzer and oatnet, thanks for the replies.
We sell some of those crimp ring terminals at my work so I will try to pick some up tomorrow for 6g. The reason why I was thinking about drilling the lugs out larger is because I was trying to use copper bolts and the ones I found were either way too small, or just slightly too big. I was told that they would have better conductivity. I could look at another source for metric bolts.
I heard back from Steven at Kelly and he said the other diagram was only if I was going to use 72v. That was the only difference.
I've got a Magura throttle.
No, I'm not getting it powered up today. I'm still working on getting the battery tray, and controller mounted up good. I did a bunch of welding and grinding today. It is starting to come together. I still have to figure out how to mount up the controller, but I got a perfect spot for it. It fits right up inside of the hollowed out gas tank. The manual states "To ensure full rated output power, the controller should be fastened to a clean, flat metal surface with four screw." I was thinking about welding a steel plate to the bottom side of the top tube of the frame. But I would have to paint it to keep it from rusting. Would that make it not "clean"? I'm assuming that is for heat transfer, is that right? So then I was thinking that I would just weld on some steel tabs and then bolt an aluminum plate to those to mount the controller to. However, I won't have enough space between the battery and the controller for two pieces of metal. I need to get those mounted up properly, before I can really do any serious wiring. So hopefully I can get them done soon.

Oatnet, I will take some time and go through your thread to see how you did yours. Thanks for the link.

 

[Jay64]

Oatnet, I checked your thread out a bit and our controllers are set up a bit differently. I have to admit I had a bunch of stuff going on last night so I didn't read through all the details, but the pics of the controller look different then mine. I will try to post some pics of it soon.

 

[Jay64]

I tried to post up a copy of the manual's wiring diagram, but it was too big of a file. If I made it any smaller, it was impossible to read.

 

[Jay64]

Ok, lets try this one more time. I made a pdf file of the schematics and my sponsor, BeFit4Riding.Com, let me host the pic on their domain. So here it is.

 

[marty]

Jay,
No offence, but the image you upload here http://befit4riding.com/ev/kelly_schematic.pdf looks a bit gray.

Find PDF version of what I think is the same thing at kellycontroller.com
Kelly KD Controllers User Manual V2.5
http://www.kellycontroller.com/mot/KellyKDUserManual.pdf

Here is page 10 View attachment KellyKDUserManual_Page_10.pdf

See GIF image. Some electrical wizards have a short attention span and they like to see drawing with out clicking on mouse.

 

[Jay64]

Marty, no offense taken. I appreciate you putting up the other images.

Looking at the manual's wiring diagram, it appears that a lot of the components are optional, and not needed "just to get the bike running." In an effort to make the diagram a little easier to read through for myself, I erased the optional components, including:
LED
Reverse buzzer
0-5v brake pedal
0-5v throttle (I have a magura 0-5k throttle, so I am assuming that is the one that connects to the front of the controller...right?)

I believe that the reverse switch is also optional at this time, but not sure exactly how much of that I can take out. There is also a reverse contactor, can that be taken out of the diagram just for basic running? Is so, how would I take these out? Meaning, how would the wires that are going into and out of them that are still needed be wired?
This is what I have so far.

 

[Jay64]

This is my interpretation of no reverse, I took out the reverse switch and the reverse contactor. Did I remove this correctly? Will this work?

 

[Jozzer]

The B+ goes to motor and battery + connections, Battery -'ve to battery -'ve, and Motor -'ve to the motors -'ve. Couldn't be easier
Stop playing with it and power it up already Jay
Anything you dont want, take it out. As long as you have PWR connected, and the throttle wired it will be fine. 5K throttle does indeed go to front panel..

 

[Jay64]

Yeah, I know. I just don't want to screw up a brand new motor or controller. Honestly it all looked very confusing when I was looking at it in the manual, but when I photoshoped out the parts I'm not using, it looks a lot simpler. I'm still trying to decide on final placement of the controller. I wanted to put it up underneath the gas tank that I hollowed out, but the battery pack is so big it is going to be a tight squeeze. So today I decided that it might just be better to put it up under the seat. There is a big open space in the frame there so i might as well use it. I just thought it would be so much cleaner to have it up in the gas tank. I have to weld some mounting brackets for it and find a piece of aluminum to bolt it to. I'm hoping to get most of that done by Thursday.
I think I posted the wrong image.

Is that showing 4 wires coming out of the throttle, or am I mis-reading it? I only have three: blue, black, brown. Anyone know what each color is for on the magura throttle?

 

[Jozzer]

Actually its only 2 wires Jay. I'll check which colours you need to use today on the Prilly, the other 2 wires are on a throttle switch (footpedal type throttle has this).

 

[Jay64]

Does anyone know what the 3 wires from the magura throttle are?

 

[fechter]

The normal color code would go like this for a Magura:

Blue Wire = Pot +

Brown Wire = Wiper

Black Wire = ground

 

[Jozzer]

A quick look at the Prilly shows black on the lowest pin, brown above it. Last wire not used...


Steve

 

[SamEV]

Hi all, new to endless sphere and reading as much as I can take in...

I'm converting a road bike with the following parts:
Bike - Honda CG125 - Cafe Racer style
Battery - 20s18p - Samsung 25R cells - Half constructed
Controller - Kelly KLS 7275 H - Ordered
Motor - QS 273 8kW 16" hub - Ordered

I had some questions about wiring up the Kelly controller so I don't blow it up the first time I power it up or ride it!

• Pin 7 (PWR) is full 72V? No DC/DC converter required.

• I have ordered a throttle with a three way speed switch, I understand it connects into Pin 15 (micro SW, throttle switch input). I presume there are three wires from the three speed switch, which other pins are these connected to?

• Pin 25 is for the brake switch (front brake), does this just stop power delivery to the motor or does it also activate the regen braking? And should the 12V switch be normally open? Can both the front and rear brake be wired into this circuit?

• Is regen activated on 12V brake switch only or also when hub is freewheeling?

• Pin 2 (brown brake AN: Brake variable regen or Boost function) is shown in the Kelly user manual but not on the wiring diagram, how is this used / connected?

• Can use an emergency cut out switch between battery pack (B+) and contactor without damaging the circuitry?

Thanks in advance!