Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

[Offroader]

Just a heads up with those side cover bolts. Mine constantly were loosening up so I kept tightening them.

Well guess what happens when you do that with a 5mm hex bolt which usese a 3mm allen key, it starts to round and strip.

I bought a pack of 50 new bolts because I knew this was a problem waiting to happen. If anyone wants to buy these bolts I found them here at the best price. I am thinking you may be better off with a torx bolt instead.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-50pcs-DIN7991-M5x12-mm-M5-12-mm-flat-head-countersunk-head-304-Stainless-Steel/32405584286.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.57.TC8Zjg

When removing my hex bolts one of them stripped, and it is a pain to get out. I am going to have to epoxy an allen key to the bolt and try that. I don't have good drill bits to drill through the bolt and use an ez out.

What I intend to do is use blue lock tite on all these bolts to see if that helps prevent them from loosening.

 

[Offroader]

I was able to loosen the bolt by removing all the other side cover bolts and then continuously rotating the side cover up and down until the bolt loosened by itself.

I always wonder why all these bolts on my bike loosen up so quickly, but on any of my cars, none of the bolts have ever became loose?

Can an ebike be designed so that bolts don't loosen as easily?

 

[Rix]

I was able to loosen the bolt by removing all the other side cover bolts and then continuously rotating the side cover up and down until the bolt loosened by itself.

I always wonder why all these bolts on my bike loosen up so quickly, but on any of my cars, none of the bolts have ever became loose?

Can an ebike be designed so that bolts don't loosen as easily?

Not thread jacking here, I just have never had any problems with my Fighter, Bomber, and now Flx Alpha loosening bolts. I don't understand why this is happening to you. A true mystery.

 

[Mammalian04]

Same thing happens on both my Raptors. I've lost a few bolts after a long ride and of course my hex heads are almost stripped. I just got in some thumb screws that I will crank down with some nylon washers. We'll see how that goes.

 

[Rix]

Same thing happens on both my Raptors. I've lost a few bolts after a long ride and of course my hex heads are almost stripped. I just got in some thumb screws that I will crank down with some nylon washers. We'll see how that goes.

Well, that sounds like a chronic problem then if its happening to others. Anyone tried red loctite?

 

[Offroader]

I was able to loosen the bolt by removing all the other side cover bolts and then continuously rotating the side cover up and down until the bolt loosened by itself.

I always wonder why all these bolts on my bike loosen up so quickly, but on any of my cars, none of the bolts have ever became loose?

Can an ebike be designed so that bolts don't loosen as easily?

Not thread jacking here, I just have never had any problems with my Fighter, Bomber, and now Flx Alpha loosening bolts. I don't understand why this is happening to you. A true mystery.

Not even your bolts where the swing arm attaches to the main frame?

I do know that I beat my bike really hard when I go out and usually to the point I am exhausted after the ride. I would think your bike would still have bolts that would loosen, especially the swingarm bolts and the axle nuts. I even have these come loose with nord lock washers.

I wonder if maybe I could not be torquing them down enough. Do you have a torque spec you use for any of your bolts? I torque mine down pretty hard, but I don't use a torque wrench and maybe I could be off with the torque spec. and not even know it.

I think I am going to use the Nord lock washers on the side cover bolts and switch to pan head hex screws. Maybe I'll eventually switch to a torx hex screw to get more torque on the bolts. These side cover bolts are definitely limited to how much torque I can use because they will strip.

 

[John in CR]

They're coming loose from vibration and/or the frame flexing. Try purple Loctite and if it proves insufficient, then blue will surely be strong enough. Red would be overkill, since you want to be able to occasionally remove the side covers.

Nord locks are way overkill and too expensive for side covers. Their usefulness is only for hubmotor nuts, and that's only of you don't have clamping dropouts. Clamping dropouts with Nord lock washers on clamping bolts would be the ultimate in security, though they should be removed rarely enough that blue or red Loctite is an equally secure far cheaper and more readily available solution.

 

[Rix]

I was able to loosen the bolt by removing all the other side cover bolts and then continuously rotating the side cover up and down until the bolt loosened by itself.

I always wonder why all these bolts on my bike loosen up so quickly, but on any of my cars, none of the bolts have ever became loose?

Can an ebike be designed so that bolts don't loosen as easily?

Not thread jacking here, I just have never had any problems with my Fighter, Bomber, and now Flx Alpha loosening bolts. I don't understand why this is happening to you. A true mystery.

Not even your bolts where the swing arm attaches to the main frame?

I do know that I beat my bike really hard when I go out and usually to the point I am exhausted after the ride. I would think your bike would still have bolts that would loosen, especially the swingarm bolts and the axle nuts. I even have these come loose with nord lock washers.

I wonder if maybe I could not be torquing them down enough. Do you have a torque spec you use for any of your bolts? I torque mine down pretty hard, but I don't use a torque wrench and maybe I could be off with the torque spec. and not even know it.

I think I am going to use the Nord lock washers on the side cover bolts and switch to pan head hex screws. Maybe I'll eventually switch to a torx hex screw to get more torque on the bolts. These side cover bolts are definitely limited to how much torque I can use because they will strip.

Not even my swing arm pivot, that said, I use a torque wrench on everything.

 

[Offroader]

Rix what torque spec do you use for the axle nuts and the swing arm pivot bolts?

 

[Rix]

Rix what torque spec do you use for the axle nuts and the swing arm pivot bolts?

I haven custom hardened flange nuts and torque them at 65nm or about 45 foot pounds, my swing arm pivot is torqued at 50 footpounds and red loctite.

 

[Quokka]

Anyone know if Qulbix has released a kickstand? At one point they told me in an email they were planning to release mudguards and a kickstand but have heard nothing further

 

[Rix]

Anyone know if Qulbix has released a kickstand? At one point they told me in an email they were planning to release mudguards and a kickstand but have heard nothing further

the Website shows a pic of a the Q76 with a kick stand in one of the photos, not sure if thats standard OEM or not.

 

[Mammalian04]

Anyone know if Qulbix has released a kickstand? At one point they told me in an email they were planning to release mudguards and a kickstand but have heard nothing further

I just heard back a couple days ago that the mudguard and kickstand are delayed but they said it will still be out "this fall".

 

[ArcanePerception]

Anyone know if Qulbix has released a kickstand? At one point they told me in an email they were planning to release mudguards and a kickstand but have heard nothing further

I ordered my 76R frame with a kickstand during the pre-order. It's the same one in the photos. I still need suspension and a front wheel to finish my build so I haven't tried it yet but it seems rugged.

 

[Offroader]

Took my side covers off to use blue locktite on the bolts and decided to check out my 280 cell battery.

Still in perfect condition after months of use. Voltages of all cells are all within .005 of each other as I never got around to putting the cells in parallel.

Pack is still tight inside the closed cell foam. When I put the side covers on I place thin foam sheets on the sides which squeeze the pack from the sides, the pack sees very little movement.





[youtube]cgZtjV2UDt8[/youtube]

 

[Rix]

Yah, that aint going anywhere. Nicely done.

 

[Mammalian04]

Looks secure! Do you have any shots of where you stuffed that mass of cables coming out of the Adaptto?

I wish the leads were longer as I don't like the big jumble of wires sticking out the bottom. I may move the controller further up the frame to have the controller shield cover more of the wires and wrap it in a neoprene sock like we use on chain stays. The controller will stick out the top but that is better than the wires hanging down low. Whenever I splash through water or wet mud, that controller trys to go into charge mode so I need to protect those connections better.

 

[Merlin]

Anyone know if Qulbix has released a kickstand? At one point they told me in an email they were planning to release mudguards and a kickstand but have heard nothing further

those kickstands are a joke
they are normal pletscher kickstands and the modification for that Q76 and A140 frames are a plastic tube on the bottom fixed with a wood screw, 1 cm to long, and just bend inside :lol:
i will make a photo ^^

 

[Quokka]

I emailed ziva, she said that they dont recommend them on bikes hreater than 35kg. She also said they were going to get another more heavy duty one some time soon

 

[Merlin]

to funny, 35kg but selling it with my 140 frames.....
they are really weak.

Pletscher Zoom
die-cast aluminium
max weight Bike 18Kg


this is from the manufacturer site.

 

[Offroader]

Looks secure! Do you have any shots of where you stuffed that mass of cables coming out of the Adaptto?

I wish the leads were longer as I don't like the big jumble of wires sticking out the bottom. I may move the controller further up the frame to have the controller shield cover more of the wires and wrap it in a neoprene sock like we use on chain stays. The controller will stick out the top but that is better than the wires hanging down low. Whenever I splash through water or wet mud, that controller trys to go into charge mode so I need to protect those connections better.

Actually Qulbix made it so that the wires come out of the controller and get stuck up into the frame through a hole. It is a very neat setup. I plugged all my connections together then stuck then into the frame. There is another hole in the back of the bike where the motor connectors come into the frame.

Unfortunately I don't have a clear shot because I mounted my hub cooling speed controller and servo tester temporarily there. But in the picture you can see the wires would just go right up into that hole and all the connectors would be in there.

 

[Offroader]

Finally got done putting the rest of the stickers on the bike, especially the front one so my bike is finally complete except for paralleling the battery cells and hooking up the BMS. I am very happy with the looks of the my Q76R bike. I am also very happy with the handling and don't see how the bike can be made to handle any better.

I of course need to repair the torn seat and get rid of the duct tape.


I don't know how Qulbix does it with just a one person operation and continues to come out with new and improved frames.

It also seems that every new frame he makes is custom made to what I want. I will be shocked if another frame comes out that makes me want to upgrade from my Q76R. But I've so far bought them all, raptor 165, raptor 140, and now the Q76R. I never built the raptor 140 because of the Q76R.

My recommendations for improvements would be to:

1) make the motorcycle seat frame more flat at the bottom because it hurts a little when lifting the bike up, as you need to grab it by the bottom of the frame and has a sharp edge.
2) Make the side cover bolts m6 size so they require a 4mm hex wrench to tighten (not 3mm hex) and won't strip as easily. They could also be torqued down harder so they won't come loose. Maybe by me switching to Torx bolts may help a little, but I would rather have the m6 size bolts instead of the m5.
3) Add a ISCG05 mounting bracket so that I can add a bash guard that doesn't need to be mounted in the bottom bracket which swivels when hit and causes the bottom bracket to loosen.


I took a 360 video of the bike to get a better look at it. Amazing that such a thin framed bike has a 3.3 KW battery pack in it.






[youtube]raZ9jRmL0W4[/youtube]

 

[Mammalian04]

Nice, thanks for the photos Offroader.

 

[Merlin]

he is my absolute favorite zip tie man *lol
plz switch to black ones + cut of the rest of it

on the 140 frame the big holes for the controller is too far away if you mount a max-e
that sucks. the little rubber caps would work well, but try to thread them through a 5mm hole.

i would solder some longer wires to it, but iam sure i would lost my warranty.

so find another neat way next days of building.

 

[Rix]

he is my absolute favorite zip tie man *lol
plz switch to black ones + cut of the rest of it

on the 140 frame the big holes for the controller is too far away if you mount a max-e
that sucks. the little rubber caps would work well, but try to thread them through a 5mm hole.

i would solder some longer wires to it, but iam sure i would lost my warranty.

so find another neat way next days of building.

For extending most of the wires, one could solder some XT150s male and female to a 6" 10g PTFE and extend them that way, of course there would be another plug connection inline, not sure if that would be good or bad.