Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

robos said:
Rix said:
Nice Robos, what do you got powering your 76R?

It's Greentime controler 48-84V 1500W 45A, battery Li-ion 20s8p and MXUS 5T motor

Thats a good volt/controller combo for the 5T, what kind of speed are you getting out of the 5T @ 84 volts hot?
 
Starting to look at this frame, can any one else confirm inside frame width as posted before 72mm...
Got a quote and they wanted [Edit 60 euro -$90 aus] for black. they called it a ''Custom color'' :? Quokka did they charge you the same.
 
Yeh mate, they hit me up for custom colour. The stock frame colour is white... And maybe gunmetal like offroader's. The standard black parts are the battery covers on the frame. I will run the verniers on the inside of the frame for you tomorrow. In the long run 60 dollars is noise in the build cost so my thoughts are get what you want for your dream bike. The frame will probably outlive us it's so well made so don't make any decisions you may regret later.
 
Ok thanks on the color info.. still feels like there playing games with loading the order as black isnt that custom / unusual.... but as you say ill take it on the chin.
Dont worry already got my dream bike .. build in my sig :) .

Thanks in advance for the frame confirmation specs... think its 63mm between the panel nuts .
 
Rix said:
robos said:
Rix said:
Nice Robos, what do you got powering your 76R?

It's Greentime controler 48-84V 1500W 45A, battery Li-ion 20s8p and MXUS 5T motor

Thats a good volt/controller combo for the 5T, what kind of speed are you getting out of the 5T @ 84 volts hot?

The top speed what I've got was 65km/h. I ride for a week and I didn't have a lot chance for tests, but on last trip on forest roads, the motor cover was only warm. I'm satisfied with this combination.
 
Emoto said:
Starting to look at this frame, can any one else confirm inside frame width as posted before 72mm...
Got a quote and they wanted [Edit 60 euro -$90 aus] for black. they called it a ''Custom color'' :? Quokka did they charge you the same.
If you measure the minimum thickness of the frame from its inner rails that makes up the monocoque its 73.5mm. If you measure the opening thickness between the side covers ( avilible battery width) I get 75.5 mm.
Another thing to be mindful of are the clip on nuts, these create a bit of dead space as well that you fill with foam
 

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Got my charge port hooked up finally. Ordered the rubber gasket cap for it.

http://www.neutrik.com/en/accessories/sealing-accessories/scd-w

Almost got my electronics installed for my hub motor cooling so I can actually drive the bike and not be on the edge of overheating the whole time.
 

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Can anyone share photos or installation details of the Qulbix-supplied headset installation (for a triple-crown fork)?

It came with cups pre-installed, but I have no clue in what order the bits go. There is a black ring, a silver notched ring, the gimbal cover thing, and the top nut.

I think the black bit goes on the bottom against the bottom of the steerer, and the silver thing on top with the gimbal cover over it???

e: so TIL what the bleep a crown race is. I think it's done.
 
Best to jump on you tube. There are lots of vids on how to install a headset. There are a few little tricks that might trip up a newcomer, but don't worry. It's easy. Have you got the stem, star fangled nut and a load of stem spacers?

My battery is making some progress, although not quite as ambitious as offroader's. Will either run a 12p, 20s or a 13p, 20s or a 12 p, 21s. Anyone have any idea what sort of rage I would get at 45-50km/hr?? Will be running a v3 Cromotor and maxe. Cells are Sanyo ga 3500's. Not planning on running huge current as I am aiming for reliability, maybe 60 amps or something
 
jmz said:
Can anyone share photos or installation details of the Qulbix-supplied headset installation (for a triple-crown fork)?

It came with cups pre-installed, but I have no clue in what order the bits go. There is a black ring, a silver notched ring, the gimbal cover thing, and the top nut.

I think the black bit goes on the bottom against the bottom of the steerer, and the silver thing on top with the gimbal cover over it???

e: so TIL what the bleep a crown race is. I think it's done.
I can probably do that for you... Give me a couple of minutes...

Envoyé de mon XT1092 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
Here it is : https://youtu.be/QoJkXpax1p0

I made a mistake while remounting it : there should not be any spacer between the fork and the frame.

Envoyé de mon XT1092 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
Quokka said:
Best to jump on you tube. There are lots of vids on how to install a headset. There are a few little tricks that might trip up a newcomer, but don't worry. It's easy. Have you got the stem, star fangled nut and a load of stem spacers?

My battery is making some progress, although not quite as ambitious as offroader's. Will either run a 12p, 20s or a 13p, 20s or a 12 p, 21s. Anyone have any idea what sort of rage I would get at 45-50km/hr?? Will be running a v3 Cromotor and maxe. Cells are Sanyo ga 3500's. Not planning on running huge current as I am aiming for reliability, maybe 60 amps or something

If you are running it on-road you will get around 75-100 Km easily on the pack. While not as big as my pack 14p 20s, 12p 20s is still a huge pack.

When running my bike hard, off-road, lots of hard acceleration and hill climbing, 7KW of power, low PSI tires I get about 75 KM with my 14p 20s using the same cells.

If I drove it only on the street and slower at 45-50KM, I would easily go over 100 KM. If I drove my bike slowly at bike speeds I could get easily over 200KM.

I wouldn't recommend building it as big as mine as it is just too much trouble to fit all the cells. I wouldn't recommend it unless you really want to max out the capacity, just not worth it.

When you glue the pack together it will expand a little so you have to be really careful where the pack approaches the edges, easy if you are using less than like 260 cells.

 
You may consider splitting it into more than one pack. Parallel for long trips/max capacity, use 1/2 the pack for shorter trips for weight reduction and better handling. Thats what I'm doing anyway....
 
Good idea, but I will probably build 2 batteries in the long run. This one with the sanyo's for commuting and another built with 30Q's for going nuts with.
 
jmz said:
Built up my Q76R frame today:

https://imgur.com/a/bMGZ4

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=79669&p=1183257#p1183257

NIce, see you running a motor rim/tire on the rear. When will you have it up and running?
 
Finally got my electronics installed for my EDF cooling, and setup to control it on my handlebar. Installed a battery temperature gauge also.

I only got a chance to put on around 11 miles (18KM) and battery temps rose slowly from 20C starting and ambient temp to 28C.

I'll have to ride for a full pack and see how hot my battery temps will get. I'm going to assume they will continue to rise to about 40-45C when my battery pack is finally empty. Battery temps fall extremely slow.

Assuming my pack temp ranges from 20C to 45C during riding, I don't think that will degrade battery life that much? I know high temps are bad but the pack is only seeing high temps for my bike rides and are not staying at these high temps all the time 24/7.

Unless of course, using the batteries when they are hot degrades cell life.

I'll report back when I test some more on how hot my battery is getting on longer rides of 45 miles (72KM).


[youtube]72EbskPCNcY[/youtube]





I know I have to put all those colorful wires in a plastic wrap.
 
Quokka said:
Cool temp sensor. I should build one into my pack. Where did you get it from?


A battery temp gauge isn't really necessary to be honest unless you're pushing the limits of your pack and believe there is a risk of overheating it. The reason I hooked one up is for testing purposes to make sure my pack isn't getting overheated. Once I confirm that my pack can never be overheated I may remove it. I'll have to test the temps during the hot summer months after my pack is sitting in my 32c garage.

Adaptto should have put an option into their controller for a battery temp sensor, and we wouldn't have to run a separate gauge.

In the picture of my pack, I have the temp sensor inside the very center of my pack. I purposely didn't put any hot glue in that hole .

I bought my temp sensor from USA amazon.com, here is the link of the one I bought.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3A2SS0/ref=sr_ph_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1462889966&sr=1&keywords=temp+gauge

51tYkod9vpL.jpg


 
I'm rather green to ebikes. Looking around the mid drive kits seem to max out around 3kw, is there anything out there in the 10-14kw range?

I plan on running a internally geared hub, something like a rohloff speed hub (still undecided). To my understanding they are good to 14kw?
 
let me say it in one word:

no

:)

you need heavy modifications on everything to build a middrive above 10KW.

if you go with 3-4KW you need in the same time 3 or 4 chains where you used one without electric powered bikes.
a bicycle chain cant handle that power. if you pitch 10Kw on it, the chain will snap on first run.
 
how about a cyclone 7.5kW mid drive with a 420 moto chain??
(someone recently put a cyclone on a fat bike and rode it at highway speeds)


Merlin said:
you need heavy modifications on everything to build a middrive above 10KW.

if you go with 3-4KW you need in the same time 3 or 4 chains where you used one without electric powered bikes.
a bicycle chain cant handle that power. if you pitch 10Kw on it, the chain will snap on first run.

Sowa said:
I'm rather green to ebikes. Looking around the mid drive kits seem to max out around 3kw, is there anything out there in the 10-14kw range?

I plan on running a internally geared hub, something like a rohloff speed hub (still undecided). To my understanding they are good to 14kw?
 
So is the chain the only weak link? Can anyone confirm how much power these geared hubs will take?

I'm also fairly new with these smaller motors. Everything I deal with in the dyno lab is ~415kw. What are some good name brand motors?
 
i dont think an IGH internally geared hub such as rohloff etc would handle very much motor power for long..
and it would be an expensive replacement..
likely better to go single speed with higher power (less things to break;)
(do a search on here for "revolt" for some inspiration:)

Sowa said:
So is the chain the only weak link? Can anyone confirm how much power these geared hubs will take?

I'm also fairly new with these smaller motors. Everything I deal with in the dyno lab is ~415kw. What are some good name brand motors?
 
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