Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Just wanted to update everyone on the side cover bolts. The blue locktite does work, or has held up for a while now. I'm not sure if it was because of the blue locktite, or for the fact I really torqued the bolts down hard or both. The blue lock tite acts as lubrication to get a better torque.

Either way I will still upgrade the bolts eventually to the same size, but with a 4mm hex wrench bolt so they don't strip when torquing like the 3mm hex wrench bolt does.
 
Offroader said:
Just wanted to update everyone on the side cover bolts. The blue locktite does work, or has held up for a while now. I'm not sure if it was because of the blue locktite, or for the fact I really torqued the bolts down hard or both. The blue lock tite acts as lubrication to get a better torque.

Either way I will still upgrade the bolts eventually to the same size, but with a 4mm hex wrench bolt so they don't strip when torquing like the 3mm hex wrench bolt does.

Im betting its a combo of both. I use a torque wrench on everything. People have made fun of me for doing this, but it has severed me very well.
 
scrambler said:
Rix said:
but it has severed me very well.

I hope the severing did not hurt you too much :wink:

Oh man the pain factor was through the roof, I would rather scratch my balls with a cheese grater. :lol: :lol: As you know, I meant served. How did I fuq that up?
 
Rix said:
scrambler said:
Rix said:
but it has severed me very well.

I hope the severing did not hurt you too much :wink:

As you know, I meant served. How did I fuq that up?

I do but I could not resist :)

It happens to me regularly in the heat of the action... I usually have to make a few editing passes after posting to clean up when I reread the posts :)
 
Me too, whats messed up is sometimes i will proof read and still miss something like this. Then find it months later when reading back through the threads I frequent looking for information and catch it then. Thank goodness everyone on ES knows what I meant to say. I did this once commenting on charging rates. I posted that charging between 3C and 4C is easy on 18650 cells and would promote longevity. What I meant to say was charging between .3C and .4C. :shock:
 
FL bomber said:
Will a 17 Moto rim motor setup work on q76 will bottom bracket be too low to ground


17" is perfectly fine because the suspension is adjustable. I use a 17" in the rear. The issue is more the front of the bike. I use a 26" in the front. My bottom bracket height is around 14.5", with 17" and 26" tire.

If you use a smaller than 26" in the front you will lose some bottom bracket height. How much will depend on how much smaller front tire you go. Because the front is not adjustable you may have to be more careful. I believe you can use a 27.5" fork to get the front higher if using a smaller front tire.

For some reason some pictures make the front tire look much bigger than the rear, others don't. But in person you would not notice such a difference and it looks normal. Smaller rear tire is highly recommended when using a hub motor, 17x3.00 is best size to use.

Q76 with 17" and 26" tires, 14.3 -14.5" bottom bracket.


 
FL bomber said:
Offroader... thanks for reply.. really like your bike it's the nicest on ES... parts list?

Thanks, I don't have a parts list, but if you are interested in any parts feel free to ask.

Not to piss anyone off (as I've learned everything from the forum) but in my opinion my Q76 is probably one of the best hub motored bikes in the world. I've designed it over the last couple of years to basically have all the most advanced parts and built lots of custom stuff into it. I also built it to be as maintenance free / reliable as possible for minimal upkeep and stuff breaking or coming loose. Basically I wanted to be the most advanced direct drive ebike out there.

It has a custom built cooling system in the motor that allows it to perform better than any other cooling modification that I know of. Very important as without it the motor would overheat very quickly and you couldn't drive anymore. I am shocked how many people don't have cooling systems in their motor.

The battery pack is built for perfect current distribution through the cells when using a rounded shape pack, uses copper wires instead of nickel plates for series connections to minimize electrical losses and allow for the pack to not have to be square or rectangular.

The pack is huge at 3.3 KW in such a tiny skinny frame giving a ridiculous amount of range and power output.

Suspension and handling, tire sizes, are chosen for best performance.

I don't really know of any way to improve it from here except maybe to lighten up the rear wheel build with a lighter motor.

I'd love if there was ebike off-road races that were longer distances where hub motor cooling and battery capacity come into account, I would like to compete with others, especially those mid-drives bikes because overheating is not that much of an issue for me.
 
Offroader said:
FL bomber said:
Offroader... thanks for reply.. really like your bike it's the nicest on ES... parts list?

Not to piss anyone off (as I've learned everything from the forum) but in my opinion my Q76 is probably one of the best hub motored bikes in the world. I've designed it over the last couple of years to basically have all the most advanced parts and built lots of custom stuff into it. I also built it to be as maintenance free / reliable as possible for minimal upkeep and stuff breaking or coming loose. Basically I wanted to be the most advanced direct drive ebike out there.

I don't really know of any way to improve it from here except maybe to lighten up the rear wheel build with a lighter motor.

I'd love if there was ebike off-road races that were longer distances where hub motor cooling and battery capacity come into account, I would like to compete with others, especially those mid-drives bikes because overheating is not that much of an issue for me.

I respect your outlook. I am a Stealth and Alpha Beta guy myself and love my machines. The build and components selection you have would make any ebike awesome. I have to agree with you that your Q76 is just plain awesome. Would be really neat if there was some kind of Ebike Offroad Enduro series race we could ride in. Maybe one day.
 
My goal was to make the best hub motored ebike out there, the perfect bike. It took me a couple of builds to get there. But there is still room for improvements, better suspension components, a battery cooler, etc. That is why it gets pointless after a while.

If we had hub motored ebike races that would really tell us what is the best or what works. It would get people using the optimal cooling solutions, power levels, best suspension components, designing better stuff.

Now we seem to just have people doing what ever and no way to see what performs, people using small front tires, people using heavy rims and large rear wheels, all sorts of different motor winding speeds, different bottom bracket heights and head tube angles.
 
I agree with offroader.. Call it confirmation bias lol. I have put down over 1000km so far. Nearly riding it everyday weather permitting. Only issues i have had are typical adaptto bugs. The thing i love is the narrow frame and clearance on your knees. I have to admit, the flux's are awesome too. I have tried out 3 different motor combos now, cro+ 19" moto rim, qs +19" moto rim and mxusv3 turbo+ 24" bicycle rim and the feel of the bike is quite different depending on motor choice. The qs is an animal and is what i use daily- why, its bulletproof with the shinko and moto rim and 10g spokes. The mxus is a weapon as well, but i only have it laced into a normal 24" bike rim and it shreds a set of tyres in under 1 week. The mxus option is way lighter and agile while the qs is a bit like a v8 drag car. The mxus is a great engine and is a winner in power vs weight. The big difference between set ups is torque. The qs205 v3 delivers instant torque, while the mxus seems to need a little more time to deliver peak grunt. In terms of heat, i dont run anything. Just the stock motor and the qs is a bit better, max temp i have seen is 105degc and that was after a triple figure top speed. The mxus is honestly not that far behind the qs in this department. The cro bugs the hell out of me. I must have a dodgy one. Fixed up the broken halls from the factory and replaced the bearings so now it runs... But i think the axled is bent. The freewheel will never run true and keeps throwing the chain. I have also found the cro to be difficult to tune withe adaptto. Probably user error, but the qs and mxus just work with autodetect and then take a few runs to get the settings right.
With my 20s12p battery, i run a max of 120amps through these motors. The range is awesome. 120km at 40-50km/hr. Absolutely flogging it with wide open trottle on dirt roads on boost i get maybe 50km.
My biggest tip to people with this bike is around chain tensioner. I have tried lots, and done a lot of swearing. With a single speed the shimano alfine is the easist to install and is idiot proof. No zipp ties, or replacing bolts in derailuers to get extra distance. It just bolts up and works first time.
 
Offroader said:
My goal was to make the best hub motored ebike out there, the perfect bike. It took me a couple of builds to get there.

Now we seem to just have people doing what ever and no way to see what performs, people using small front tires, people using heavy rims and large rear wheels, all sorts of different motor winding speeds, different bottom bracket heights and head tube angles.

This is my goal also, I am going about it a different way. My latest build has MC rims and tires front and rear, peak burst of 11kw, and weighs less than 100 pounds. The reason my bike is light is my battery is half of yours, 18s 21ah 30Q cells. The weak link on my bike is the front fork. Its a 2014 Marzocchi 888CR and I am having a problem with stiction. I am hoping that maybe the fork needs to break in, but now after 300 miles, still not any smoother. The rear suspension is a Fox Shock with their custom valving specs (C168) This valve spec is specific for single pivot DH mountain bikes such as the old Santa Cruz Bullit. When I told Fox what kind of bike the shock was going on, they didn't have a clue where to start, then I remembered my Bullit had a 2.8-1 shock travel ratio and my bike is 3.1-1, so I knew that valving with a stiffer spring would be the set up, I was right and it came out perfect with a 550# spring.
 
Quokka said:
My biggest tip to people with this bike is around chain tensioner. I have tried lots, and done a lot of swearing. With a single speed the shimano alfine is the easist to install and is idiot proof. No zipp ties, or replacing bolts in derailuers to get extra distance. It just bolts up and works first time.

This is the only thing about the Qulbix that I wish would be different.
The fact that the BB is not on the swing arm, so you cannot configure it with a single rear sprocket and no chain tensioner (with eventually a Schlumpf / ATS).
 
Quokka said:
I agree with offroader.. Call it confirmation bias lol. I have put down over 1000km so far. Nearly riding it everyday weather permitting. Only issues i have had are typical adaptto bugs. The thing i love is the narrow frame and clearance on your knees. I have to admit, the flux's are awesome too. I have tried out 3 different motor combos now, cro+ 19" moto rim, qs +19" moto rim and mxusv3 turbo+ 24" bicycle rim and the feel of the bike is quite different depending on motor choice. The qs is an animal and is what i use daily- why, its bulletproof with the shinko and moto rim and 10g spokes. The mxus is a weapon as well, but i only have it laced into a normal 24" bike rim and it shreds a set of tyres in under 1 week. The mxus option is way lighter and agile while the qs is a bit like a v8 drag car. The mxus is a great engine and is a winner in power vs weight. The big difference between set ups is torque. The qs205 v3 delivers instant torque, while the mxus seems to need a little more time to deliver peak grunt. In terms of heat, i dont run anything. Just the stock motor and the qs is a bit better, max temp i have seen is 105degc and that was after a triple figure top speed. The mxus is honestly not that far behind the qs in this department. The cro bugs the hell out of me. I must have a dodgy one. Fixed up the broken halls from the factory and replaced the bearings so now it runs... But i think the axled is bent. The freewheel will never run true and keeps throwing the chain. I have also found the cro to be difficult to tune withe adaptto. Probably user error, but the qs and mxus just work with autodetect and then take a few runs to get the settings right.
With my 20s12p battery, i run a max of 120amps through these motors. The range is awesome. 120km at 40-50km/hr. Absolutely flogging it with wide open trottle on dirt roads on boost i get maybe 50km.
My biggest tip to people with this bike is around chain tensioner. I have tried lots, and done a lot of swearing. With a single speed the shimano alfine is the easist to install and is idiot proof. No zipp ties, or replacing bolts in derailuers to get extra distance. It just bolts up and works first time.

Yah, you got one awesome build. Really like it. Have you made any video yet?
 
scrambler said:
Quokka said:
My biggest tip to people with this bike is around chain tensioner. I have tried lots, and done a lot of swearing. With a single speed the shimano alfine is the easist to install and is idiot proof. No zipp ties, or replacing bolts in derailuers to get extra distance. It just bolts up and works first time.

This is the only thing about the Qulbix that I wish would be different.
The fact that the BB is not on the swing arm, so you cannot configure it with a single rear sprocket and no chain tensioner (with eventually a Schlumpf / ATS).

I know this turns into a heated debate but I will share my opinion. I prefer not to have the bottom bracket on the swingarm because it will weigh down the swingarm by standing on it. This suspension (bottom bracket on swingarm) has been phased out on bicycle suspensions for many years because it was found to be inferior.

I've not tried a UFT suspension so I am just going by what I have found on my research, which makes sense because you are adding to the unsprung weight.

Maybe if you have the bottom bracket exactly where it attaches to the frame that would be better.

You will get guys who say "yeah it makes no difference", but a bike will seem to ride good even with major problems with the suspension and you won't really know how much better it will ride until you have everything perfect. This I learned from having really off spring weights, it seemed fine and great until I lowered my spring weight and the bike was surprisingly 10x better and I would not have known unless I lowered my spring weight.
 
Rix said:
The weak link on my bike is the front fork. Its a 2014 Marzocchi 888CR and I am having a problem with stiction. I am hoping that maybe the fork needs to break in, but now after 300 miles, still not any smoother.

i can share your experience!
two of my bikes are fitted with marzocchi 380cr forks, and on one bike, where i used a boxxer before (with Motion Control damper), the marzocchi noticeable doesn't smoot out the small and quick bumps (or generally when riding at higher speed on not so smooth roads) as the boxxer did. this leads to a crazy shaking handlebar.
i also was hoping that maybe the seals need to break in first and i oil them up almost every time i take the bike for a ride, but now i gave up hope..
if i preload the fork with my arms with lets say about 50kg on the handlebars, the dip tubes won't move if a alter the preload less than about +- 5kg. So BIG is the stinction.

I think the next fork will be a boxxer world cup with the charger damper :)
 
Yes, wzup with this stiction on Zoccs? My 55r are the same, have to use a few drops of silicone oil before the ride, then they are great. But as Madin said, if I slowly load the fork with 50kg it does not moove.
 
They sell SKF low friction seals for marzocchi which are supposed to help with the stiction. Maybe you should try swapping them out to the SKF seals.

[youtube]y4H_kiWl2jM[/youtube]
 
madin88 said:
[te="Rix"]The weak link on my bike is the front fork. Its a 2014 Marzocchi 888CR and I am having a problem with stiction. I am hoping that maybe the fork needs to break in, but now after 300 miles, still not any smoother.[

i can share your experience!
two of my bikes are fitted with marzocchi 380cr forks, and on one bike, where i used a boxxer before (with Motion Control damper), the marzocchi noticeable doesn't smoot out the small and quick bumps (or generally when riding at higher speed on not so smooth roads) as the boxxer did. this leads to a crazy shaking handlebar.
i also was hoping that maybe the seals need to break in first and i oil them up almost every time i take the bike for a ride, but now i gave up hope..
if i preload the fork with my arms with lets say about 50kg on the handlebars, the dip tubes won't move if a alter the preload less than about +- 5kg. So BIG is the stinction.

I think the next fork will be a boxxer world cup with the charger damper :)

Allex » Wed Aug 24, 2016 12:05 pm

Yes, wzup with this stiction on Zoccs? My 55r are the same, have to use a few drops of silicone oil before the ride, then they are great. But as Madin said, if I slowly load the fork with 50kg it does not moove.

I am relieved I am not the only one with this issue. My other zocks were made in Italy and worked great, but at some point, the Italians went from "made in Italy" to "designed in Italy" and the forks in stock trim went down hill. In 2012, I replaced the forks on my Bomber with Zochs, and they worked pretty well, but my current forks, they aren't much better than the older RST we had on out bikes. I honestly thought they would break in, but maybe not the case. Will looking to servicing them with better fork oil and skf seals, could be the ticket.
 
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