Yeh im thinking Ill go easy hook up of the 4s packs 20s 2p so 32ah. Im sure ive read that doctorbass smoked a max e on 22s buthat may have been ulocked. 20s & ovs I think should get the bike about where it is now on 24s.. 50 odd mph is ample for me.
Qulbix Raptor 140
- Thread starter Mammalian04
- Start date
Jonboy said:
Maybe or maybe not...
I'm running 22S on max-e with cromotor and the only problem that I had till now is the low batt warning aka end of fun.
The problem with Doctorbass 's max-e is that he is running a motor with a high kv (18ish) that is known for killing controllers
All 4s packs aren't a bad idea. You can easily hook up to the Max-E BMS if that is what you want to use. If you use 6s packs you have to wire into 4s connectors, and one of the connections to the BMS gets disconnected you basically short out the BMS and most likely damage it.
Actually I may consider getting all 4s packs.
Actually I may consider getting all 4s packs.
Offroader, are you saying if rigged up with 6s packs and a custom harness to suit and then one of the 4s plugs accidentally get disconnected from the bms the board could be damaged?
But with straight forward 4s packs attached to the board there wouldn't be a problem if this happened?
Not sure if I got the wrong end of the stick here??
But with straight forward 4s packs attached to the board there wouldn't be a problem if this happened?
Not sure if I got the wrong end of the stick here??
Jonboy said:
Crazy as it sounds that is the case. I can't be sure when it happens to be honest, but I believe that if you have your batteries connected in a series and also connected to the BMS, if you then disconnect your batteries in a series it will short the BMS. I am not sure if it happens if you disconnect one of the 4s plugs, it may only happen if you disconnect your main battery pack out of series.
Look at this diagram from 22s to BMS. You will see how some of the wires need to be connected together. You will need to figure out how it happens. It may even happen if you connect your packs in a series differently, which can be easily done. Maybe one one day I will try and figure it all out. Actually I should figure it out before I hook up my BMS to my future upgraded pack at 22s.
Here is what Adapatto told me about my diagram below.
"Yes, you could connect this way but you should know that you will not be able to unplug the dot places because otherwise the BMS can brake in case of additional current, so be careful."
Jackrabbit
100 W
I've got a bit of a problem with my Cromotor/19" moto wheel set up. I asked the wheel builder to offset the rim 2.6mm towards the freewheel side from the centre line as in the diagram from Qulbix. The wheel now sits about 5mm off centre in the swing arm. Have I misread the diagram? Should it be offset towards the brake disc side?
Rix
100 TW
Jackrabbit said:
I think you probably should have stuck with a straight 1x lace with 0 offset. I have found that being 2-3mm off center doesn't seem to affect things much, at low speed when gyroscopic affect of the wheels aren't in play, your bike may fall into a turn on one side easier than the other. When I observed this, it was with pedaling and no hands on the handle bars and I could just barely feel it while leaning with a 2mm off center. And I have to wonder if that was in my head as I knew by wheel was just slight out of alignment? Anyway, its easy to shift your wheel a mm over just by loosening oneside of the spokes and tightening the other side, then true from there.
Jackrabbit
100 W
Hi Rix, it's actually about 5mm off centre which makes me think it's been dished the wrong way, I read the diagram as offsetting the rim to the freewheel side of the motor but maybe it means offsetting the motor to the freewheel side of the rim if that makes sense? I've spent a lot of time and money building this bike to be as good as I can get it, I don't want to accept any compromises now.
Rix
100 TW
Jackrabbit said:
I like your style Jackrabbit, you want everything to be perfect. That said if your wheel builder did dish it the wrong way, it would be nothing more than to have your rim relaced with the dish moved to the other side using the spokes you have. I don't know much about dishing wheels, I have never done it and only have laced mc hubs and hubmotors to rims with zero offset. I think if the dish is radical, you need to have spokes cut different at different lengths . If that's the case with yours, the fix would be to unlace your wheel and swap spokes sides and relaced. Should only cost you the labor.
Jackrabbit said:
LOL, yeah I think you did misread the diagram. Looking at it the diagram the motor itself is offset 2.6mm to the freewheel side. This can only be done by spacers. I guess this explains why I and others had to shave off around 3mm on my brake caliper mount since it was designed for the motor to be offset to the freewheel side by this amount.
I assume it is offset 5mm because you also offset the motor in the dropouts and didn't center it?
I still want to know why Qulbix wants the motor offset. Anyone have any idea? Is this because of the chain line?
Jackrabbit
100 W
I followed the Qulbix video for Cromotor fitting. I put enough spacers on the brake side so that it measured 15-16 mm from the dropout to the disc mounting plate, then filled the space on the freewheel side with sufficient spacers, I think it was 7 or 8mm. I have a 155mm Cromotor.
Rix
100 TW
Offroader said:
That makes sense Offroader, I was trying to figure out why Jackrabbit would dish his rim not knowing the parameters. Jackrabbit, please disregard everything I said in my last reply.
Jackrabbit
100 W
This is the diagram just so people know what we're talking about.
http://www.qulbix.com/images/documents/compatible_raptor140_motors_Cromotor.pdf
http://www.qulbix.com/images/documents/compatible_raptor140_motors_Cromotor.pdf
Rix
100 TW
Started to put nord lock washers on some of my bolts. I need to place a new order for different sizes as I don't have the size for the axle.
This is where I intend to put them.
Drop out bolts
swingarm main bolts
Motor Axle nut bolts
Possibly I may put them on shock mount and seat bolts, but these hardly loosen, require 2 nord lock washers for bolt and nut, and don't matter much if they do loosen up.
Using nord lock washers I think should be a requirement because all the bolts eventually loosen. We know from experience that once these bolts loosen up they can cause damage. I could even see all the metal flakes when removing my swing arm bolt because it came very loose once when I wasn't checking it daily, this caused the bolt to move around and wear either the bolt threads or the threads in the bearing or swingarm.
I'm still testing but once torqued properly and checked after a couple of rides these bolts will never come loose again. Already after my first ride, I used a nord lock on one side of the swingarm bolts that hold the bearing, after my first ride the side without the nord lock needed to be tightened a little because it came loose, the nord lock side was still tight. These things do work and I had made sure those bolts were both torqued down tight before the ride.
For $5-10 dollar worth of washers, well worth it to use them as even if you check your bolts before each ride they can easily loosen up during your ride and cause damage. Plus, after proper torque, nord lock recommends that you apply lubrication to the bolt, you may not even have to check the bolt torque after each ride anymore.
I'm still in the process of seeing if they ever come loose, so far so good. I'll keep you posted after I ride a lot more.
This is where I intend to put them.
Drop out bolts
swingarm main bolts
Motor Axle nut bolts
Possibly I may put them on shock mount and seat bolts, but these hardly loosen, require 2 nord lock washers for bolt and nut, and don't matter much if they do loosen up.
Using nord lock washers I think should be a requirement because all the bolts eventually loosen. We know from experience that once these bolts loosen up they can cause damage. I could even see all the metal flakes when removing my swing arm bolt because it came very loose once when I wasn't checking it daily, this caused the bolt to move around and wear either the bolt threads or the threads in the bearing or swingarm.
I'm still testing but once torqued properly and checked after a couple of rides these bolts will never come loose again. Already after my first ride, I used a nord lock on one side of the swingarm bolts that hold the bearing, after my first ride the side without the nord lock needed to be tightened a little because it came loose, the nord lock side was still tight. These things do work and I had made sure those bolts were both torqued down tight before the ride.
For $5-10 dollar worth of washers, well worth it to use them as even if you check your bolts before each ride they can easily loosen up during your ride and cause damage. Plus, after proper torque, nord lock recommends that you apply lubrication to the bolt, you may not even have to check the bolt torque after each ride anymore.
I'm still in the process of seeing if they ever come loose, so far so good. I'll keep you posted after I ride a lot more.
Jackrabbit
100 W
Rix said:
As far as I can see the only way to get the rim central in the frame is to offset the motor to the rim. Spacing the motor further to the freewheel side won't change that. I misread the diagram, I thought the centre line was the centre of the motor when it is actually the centre of the frame. The motor needs to sit 2.6mm to the right while the rim stays central.
Jackrabbit said:
That's not how I'm reading it. It shows the motor needs to be spaced 2.6mm to the right, and then the rim needs to be offset 2.6mm to the left to center the rim/tire in the frame.
Maybe I misunderstand what you mean by the rim stays central.
Jackrabbit
100 W
What I mean is that if the rim centre sits on the frame centre line then the motor centre needs to be 2.6mm to the right of that line (freewheel side.)
voicecoils
1 MW
Jackrabbit said:
I would suggest taking both the wheel and swingarm back to the wheelbuilder. They'll be able to align the rim in the middle of the swingarm so it tracks directly behind the front wheel, even if the rim doesn't sit exactly centered over the motor's spoke flanges.
I've built various motor wheels where the rim sat closer to the disk side in order to get the wheel centered in the bike.
A dishless, symmetrical wheelbuild is much stronger than a dished wheel but gears and brakes often get in the way and force compromises in order to fit everything in between the dropouts.
voicecoils said:
This is why I centered my motor in the dropouts, I didn't want any dishing on the rear wheel which already had problems with spokes breaking. I am going to have to Email Qulbix on why they have the rim offset in the picture.
I was able to center the motor and rim in the dropouts without any problems with brakes or freewheel. Could my chain line be off a couple of mm, who really cares?
I say you center the rim on the motor, then center the motor in the dropouts. Unless of course I'm overlooking something here.
Jackrabbit
100 W
I took the wheel back to the builder today and asked him to offset it as in the diagram from Qulbix. I've fitted it back on the bike and it's now perfect.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
This was recently published on the ES Facebook page. A Qulbix Raptor 140 with a Lightning Rods "Big Block" motor and #219 chain primary drive.
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