R/C car lipo's???

[fidorama]

Being a newb here, and working on my first build, all the battery choices are a but overwhelming for a guy such as myself. My control box say 36/48 volt, so I assume I able to use either voltage? or even perhaps something within that range? I cant seem to find much for local battery sources, but also being a bit of an R/C guy, makes me wonder how well R/C lipo's will work for my build? My big concern would be the lack of a low voltage cut out, and the hassle of charging the packs all separately. Can anyone here who has done this give me any insight on how well and if it worked.
Thanks

 

[Jon NCal]

Many people here use R/C Hobbingking lipos. Motor controller will have low voltage cutoff. There is a faq on this forum about charging lipos.

 

[Lurkin]

Being a newb here, and working on my first build, all the battery choices are a but overwhelming for a guy such as myself. My control box say 36/48 volt, so I assume I able to use either voltage? or even perhaps something within that range? I cant seem to find much for local battery sources, but also being a bit of an R/C guy, makes me wonder how well R/C lipo's will work for my build? My big concern would be the lack of a low voltage cut out, and the hassle of charging the packs all separately. Can anyone here who has done this give me any insight on how well and if it worked.
Thanks

Yes, but what kit are you planning to use? This really determines your voltage. If you put up more information about what you are planning to use, you will get better responses back. motor choice, max speed, terrain, etc etc.

Many have used RC lipo on here with good results. Using a BMS can avoid the harness plug in plug out issues.

You probably need to work out whether you want to assemble Lipo bricks yourself and unplug to charge (ideal if you have the knowledge, can get lipo cheap and can be bothered monitoring the cells appropriately) or use lipo with BMS (still ideal to keep an eye on your cells) or have a pre made pack of alternative batteries, like 18650s. Pre made 18650 packs generally use BMS, are easy to use and relatively safe compared to lipo. Have a looksee at em3ev, luna cycles etc if your interested. You may want to update your avatar to include location information so appropriate recommendations for vendors can also be made (easy to get screwed on freight with batteries).

It will probably help with the direction of the thread to make this decision early on to get the discussion on what you want to end up with.

 

[fidorama]

That's good news! Ok I am using a 1000W rear hub motor kit with sine wave controller that says 36/48v on its label. No idea who manufactured the kit, it was an ebay purchase. I really don't know much more than that. I'm not going for overall speed, More concerned with power and distance. I am hoping to source them locally as any shipping and duty just add to the cost, but still looking around. currently looking at some that are 14.8V 5000mah 35C that are a local hobby shops own name brand. I'm assuming I would need 3 to give myself 44.4v.. Being an R/C guy I already have a charger, although its only capable of charging 1 battery at a time but?..

 

[Ykick]

You can put up to 63v or 15s RC Lipo on that kit.

 

[mark5]

There's been lots of info on using rc lipo, probably more than you'll get from replies in this thread, if you'll use the forum's search function.

For example here's a search result that shows you how you can minimize the unplugging and replugging to charge and discharge your pack. Another way is to instead buy a Thunder Power 12s charger.

Icecube 57's Lipo battery harness review. 4 battery set. by dogman dan
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=32096

Another view, same idea:

Parallel Charging Wire Harness w/Pics
http://www.modifiedelectricscooters.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=947

 

[999zip999]

Where do you live ? As there are many plug and play batteries that are good for bikes. Less hassle and with hvc and lvc.

 

[fidorama]

I'm from Edmonton. I am now thinking two 22.2v batteries should do

 

[Ykick]

12S is a logical RC Lipo configuration for eBike. At least in the beginning. Eventually you may play around with bumping up your top speed and adding a little more Wh with a few more cells but 12S is a very wise choice for running on RC Lipo.

 

[999zip999]

What charger you have ? Good to cycle and check balance. Plus a wattmeter for voltage and ah and or alarms ?

 

[dogman dan]

Two 12s bricks can work well, and be easiest to charge with your existing charger. For full 48v I like to run 14s, which I often run as 6s +6s+ 2s.

Many choose 4s bricks, since they can be better priced. A cheap voltmeter, cheap watt meter, or best of all, a Cycleanalyst can help you know when to stop riding. There are also the low voltage alarms, but I use those only when I plan to drain a battery 100%.

 

[AussieRider]

Hi Fidorama, welcome to ES. I've been using RC lipo on my beach cruiser for nearly 2 years with good results. I'm running 2x4s packs for 8s & charge with a pair of Imax pro chargers. The bike has a 3pin lug, +, centre & -. A lead with +, - & two centre leads plug into the chargers. One charger has + & centre, the other has centre & -. Every few cycles I simply unplug the packs & balance with the pro chargers. If you're into RC, you probably have a pro charger or two already. For 12s, just use a 4 pin lead & add another charger.
Hope this is useful.

AussieRider

 

[ScooterMan101]

So there is not a big enough internal resistance , or different charge / discharge rates, because of the 2s pack being made in a different batches than the 2 6s packs ?
, in order to cause shorter life or other problems ?

I ask because after running my current motor on 48 volts , 13s which is a non hobby lipo pack it is 18650's , I am ready to bump up to 52 volts ( 14s ) now for a little more speed/range.
and there seems to be a shortage of 7s lipo packs on the HK website, the ones I found is the Zippy , : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=57893
but they are only 5800 mAh . so the price of 4 of them to make a 11 amp hour pack is not that good.

Two 12s bricks can work well, and be easiest to charge with your existing charger. For full 48v I like to run 14s, which I often run as 6s +6s+ 2s.

Many choose 4s bricks, since they can be better priced. A cheap voltmeter, cheap watt meter, or best of all, a Cycleanalyst can help you know when to stop riding. There are also the low voltage alarms, but I use those only when I plan to drain a battery 100%.