Replace LCD display?

[Ebby]

VelectriX 27.5 Ascent. Bought a dodgy bike of someone who had changed the display and the start button hasn't worked from my first day one!
The plug to the display t the motor has to be pulled apart to get it into start mode. (Well it used to, now it goes straight to P mode)...
I bought a new screen off Ebay, looks the same but comes with a 5 pin green socket instead of the 6 pin black socket that is on the bike now.
I can't find any wiring diagrams for the Velectrix 6 pin to see if I can utilise the 5 pin wiring functions into the 6 pin from the motor. Any help would be appreciated

 

[amberwolf]

Do you happen to know why they changed the display? Or anything about the previous problems it may have had?

Does "Start" button mean the power button in the center of the button cluster unit?

Has that unit been changed? (if it's a separate part from the display)

What controller does this bike use? I'd guess it's a LiShui (LS-something) if it uses the 800s LCD.

Are the screens the same exact version and model as what originally came with the bike, if you compare to manufacturer documentation or webpages?

If not, they may not be compatible with it due to either firmware differences / protocol, or using a different serial bus type (canbus vs regular serial vs ??)--but even incompatible ones usually power on the system to whatever the controller's default settings are, as long as the connector wiring is identical.

If the connector wiring isn't identical, then because there is both battery voltage (B+ and Lock wires) and 5v signals (TX/RX/etc) in there, it's possible to damage both display and controller so that they will never be able to communicate with each other to do anything (and will not work with any other controller or display either). They'll still power on, and operate within themselves, run the motor, etc., but no talkie anymore.

There are some wiring diagrams for the connectors in this image search; I don't know which ones apply to your controller / displays:

lcd 800s connector wiring - Google Search

Some bikes use a splitter cable to go from the controller to the various other things on the bike. If yours does, you may be able to get a different version of it with the right connector for your new display. It could even be the cable itself causing the original/new problem(s).

But it may just be easier to find the right version of the display for your controller (or if the controller is the problem, replacing that).


There are a number of displays made in two or more versions for use with different brands of controllers, and these can have different connectors, pinouts, etc. Generally they can't be made compatible with anything else (some might be if using opensource firmware to replace the controller firmware and usually the display firmware, if there is an OSFW for that system).


The hole in the motor casing was probably drilled to allow water to drain out--after a ride, park it with the hole downward. Keeps moisture buildup from corroding the motor inside.

 

[Ebby]

Do you happen to know why they changed the display? Or anything about the previous problems it may have had?

Does "Start" button mean the power button in the center of the button cluster unit?

Has that unit been changed? (if it's a separate part from the display)

What controller does this bike use? I'd guess it's a LiShui (LS-something) if it uses the 800s LCD.

Are the screens the same exact version and model as what originally came with the bike, if you compare to manufacturer documentation or webpages?

If not, they may not be compatible with it due to either firmware differences / protocol, or using a different serial bus type (canbus vs regular serial vs ??)--but even incompatible ones usually power on the system to whatever the controller's default settings are, as long as the connector wiring is identical.

If the connector wiring isn't identical, then because there is both battery voltage (B+ and Lock wires) and 5v signals (TX/RX/etc) in there, it's possible to damage both display and controller so that they will never be able to communicate with each other to do anything (and will not work with any other controller or display either). They'll still power on, and operate within themselves, run the motor, etc., but no talkie anymore.

There are some wiring diagrams for the connectors in this image search; I don't know which ones apply to your controller / displays:

lcd 800s connector wiring - Google Search

Some bikes use a splitter cable to go from the controller to the various other things on the bike. If yours does, you may be able to get a different version of it with the right connector for your new display. It could even be the cable itself causing the original/new problem(s).

But it may just be easier to find the right version of the display for your controller (or if the controller is the problem, replacing that).


There are a number of displays made in two or more versions for use with different brands of controllers, and these can have different connectors, pinouts, etc. Generally they can't be made compatible with anything else (some might be if using opensource firmware to replace the controller firmware and usually the display firmware, if there is an OSFW for that system).


The hole in the motor casing was probably drilled to allow water to drain out--after a ride, park it with the hole downward. Keeps moisture buildup from corroding the motor inside.

I haven't been able to replace the exact screen, the bike is 8 years old, and original owner(s) and history is unknown. I've purchased a new display and control, with the matching 6 pin black plug to battery, entered all the settings as in the directions. For setting P13, it asks for 'Power Magnet Steel Disc Type Settings 5, 8, 12 Magnetic Steel Types' I don't know where this info is so I set it to 12. I have tried 8 magnet setting, no different to 12.
But I have a permanent No Communication code e10 since the start of installation, but, it will start in 1st gear, it will take off for about 3 seconds, wont react to gear(power +) change then no power till powered off then start again. Tried all variations of settings to no avail.
The controller is a sealed unit screwed into the battery box with unmovable plugs....
It's looking like, if the motor is ok, a complete new setup to match the motor....I guess!

 

[rick_p]

This is just a hunch, but there’s a small chance the controller has been the problem all along, and possibly both the controller and the display are bad If there was a short circuit situation like the display got water in it while the bike was turned on. But since you bought an original equipment display, maybe you can find an original controller too. If not, then yeah, your best bet may be to replace both with a new matched set.

 

[E-HP]

The (partial) list of displays that I have that are compatible with Lishui controllers is:

KD21C, KD51C, KD59E, KD716, KD718 - Lishui

Displays cannot be interchanged between manufacturers, or even models in many cases. It's best to but the display with the controller to ensure compatibility, or replaced with the same unit (firmware may vary, so even one of the same model may not work).

 

[Ebby]

Thanks guys, I think a replacement of everything, hopefully not the motor is the answer. Or, sell it, ct the loss and buy a new bike!
Cheers.

 

[rick_p]

Depending on how much you paid for the bike, if the battery and motor are good, it’s probably worth the cost of replacing the controller and display with a matched set, the kit usually comes with the necessary wires/cables. Since your original controller was built into the battery tray, you will probably have to mount the new controller elsewhere though because it’s unlikely you’ll find a kit that comes with one that will fit in same location.

 

[E-HP]

Thanks guys, I think a replacement of everything, hopefully not the motor is the answer. Or, sell it, ct the loss and buy a new bike!
Cheers.

Does your Hailong battery and mount have flat blade contacts or the round pins? Can you post a pic?
If you replace the controller with a similar unit integrated into the battery mount it seems like it would be a relatively clean swap, and you could get the compatible peripheral components to match it. What does your pedal assist sensor look like (picture isn't clear enough to tell)?

JYT Controller Integrated with Hailong Battery Holder with 5 Gold-Plated Round Plug for YOSE POWER 250W Complete Rear Motor Kit

1. Technical DataBrand: JYTFit for: Yose Power 36V 250W Rear Motor KitRated Voltage: DC36VRated Current: 7ALow Voltage Protection: DC29VMax. Current: 15A Throttle Adjustment Voltage: 1.2V - 4.4VWeight: 0.3 kg2. Packing List1 x Controller 3. Warm Tips* Shipping from China takes 20-30 working...

yosepower.com

Integrated Lishui Controller in Hailong Plus Battery Holder with 5 Flat Pins Plug

1. Technical DataFit for: Yose Power 36V 250W Front Motor KitCompatible with: 36V 15.6Ah Hailong batteryRated Voltage: DC36VRated Current: 7ALow Voltage Protection: DC31VMax. Current: 15A Weight: 0.45 kg2. Packing List1 x Controller3. Warm Tips* Shipping from China takes 20-30 working days.*...

yosepower.com

Lishui Controller Integrated with Hailong Battery Holder with 5 Gold-Plated Round Plug for YOSE POWER 350W Complete Rear Motor KIt

1. Technical DataBrand: LishuiFit for: Yose Power 36V 350W Rear Motor KitRated Voltage: DC36VRated Current: 9ALow Voltage Protection: DC31VMax. Current: 18A Throttle Adjustment Voltage: 1.2V - 4.4VWeight: 0.3 kg2. Packing List1 x Controller 3. Warm Tips* Shipping from China takes 20 - 30 working...

yosepower.com