Replacing Hall Sensors

[Mantass]

Hello,
I have just bought used electric scooter with damaged hub motor. It was totally blocked with rust between magnets and rotor. After pushing rotor out and cleaning everything motor started to work - but it doesn't work as it should. I found, that one hall sensor is dead. There is spare set of hall sensors, but none of them are working.
The only solution that I see is to replace hall sensors. The problem is that it is not possible to see what kind of sensors is used here. Could anybody suggest me what sensors could fit here? Motor is "Super Power Motor" 8000W, 72V. Controller is from Kelly controls. Scooter brand is "XEL", but I have found, that they are also called ZEV LRC.

If there is not enough info, just tell me what I need to check more?

Some photos are attached here:

 

[e-beach]

Hey Mantass! First things first....


Ok, so now that that is done......replacing the hall sensors is a pain, but before we go there, what tests did you do on them to confirm that they are bad?

Details please.

 

[Mantass]

Ok, profile is fixed now - i live in Norway.

Lets fix my scooter now I have checked output of hall sensors - 2 of them were pulsing, and 1 was constantly at 4,5 volts. Connection to controller was ok.
Anyway now it is too late to check something again, because i have totally broken it by trying to take out

 

[teklektik]

Could anybody suggest me what sensors could fit here?

Honeywell SS41 or SS411A are commonly used ebike halls - both are rated to 150degC and either are suitable replacements in hub motors.

Ed Lyen sells them, but from other recent threads appears to be unavailable just now - perhaps on a job.

Genuine parts should be available to you from parts supply houses - although these places can be costly because of shipping and (sometimes) minimum quantities. Not sure where to go in Norway/EU for parts....


View attachment SS41.pdfView attachment SS411A_honeywell-sensing-ss400series-productsheet.pdf

 

[dnmun]

how did you test them? you said there is a second set of hall sensors. where are they located? do you have pictures of where they are located in the magnet ring?

 

[Mantass]

Thank you for answers, I am going to order ss41 and try them.

Dnmun, I have tested them while they were connected to the controller, and I was measuring their output signals. Only two sensors was giving pulsing output. I have checked all wirings from motor to controller and everyting was ok there. To be sure, that this is not controller problem I have connected bad hall sensor to another controller input, and it was still not giving pulsing output.
Spare set of hall sensors are in oposite side, but none of them are working. Picture is attached.

 

[vax]

Replacing them are in fact quite easy. First you have to remove old one. Then, carefully remove any epoxy residue from its pocket, I like to use Proxxon multitool, with pointy mill bit. Next, apply some new freshly mixed epoxy into pocket and place new sensor in it, wipe any excess epoxy with cotton stick etc.
Then, I usually solder sensor legs to correct places and assemble the motor.
20 minute job.

 

[cwah]

Its complicated

 

[e-beach]

When you tested the halls for "pulsing output" was the wheel fully assembled? Were you able to turn the wheel and test it like this Gren Tech page suggests?

http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

 

[dnmun]

sounds like he did. you should not use epoxy to install the new ones imo. it is toxic when you have to heat it to remove it later when the sensor fails again.

the old one will come out when you heat up hot enuff to melt the hot glue they use to hold them in place. then a sharp pick into the beck of the recess where the hall sensor fits and lever it out.

if you are over there maybe order the 10 or 25 minimum quantity for a discount and then resell them to other europeans. send through the mail and avoid the VAT to them or would you have a big VAT when you order from Mouser?

SS41 is ok, no need for SS411 since SS41 is cheaper usually. worth looking on ebay but usually they have something other than honeywell but those SS41 chinese knockoffs are what is used in all the ebike motors. none of them are honeywell parts from the factory.

 

[izeman]

i'm planing to replace the halls in my MAC as well. not sure if they are working 100% correct. i had ordered some ebay halls 2 years ago and used them. i want to use original honeywell now.
can someone please tell me if it does make a difference if i take SS-41 or SS-411A as later are more expensive. €1,59 compared to €8,49 per piece. dnmun you said it's ok to take SS-41, but is there some PRO for SS-411A regarding ebikes?
thanks!

 

[Dalyjc]

Hey, just ordered these after reading this thread....
ILamourCar
20Pcs A3144 A3144E OH3144E Hall Effect Sensor

Via Amazon. Just to make sure; these will work on most eacooters right?

 

[e-beach]

Hey, just ordered these after reading this thread....
ILamourCar
20Pcs A3144 A3144E OH3144E Hall Effect Sensor

Via Amazon. Just to make sure; these will work on most eacooters right?

What is the original number printed on the halls that are in your scotter? The number on the existing Hall will tell you what you should replace with.

 

[danielrlee]

Hey, just ordered these after reading this thread....
ILamourCar
20Pcs A3144 A3144E OH3144E Hall Effect Sensor

Via Amazon. Just to make sure; these will work on most eacooters right?

These are not the correct sensors for use inside a brushless motor (they are unipolar, where you require bipolar sensors). Many controllers however will still accept their signal as a valid motor hall input. More 'fussy' controllers may not though.

The correct sensor model is 41F.

 

[fechter]

Those sensors should work fine.

 

[amberwolf]

Hey, just ordered these after reading this thread....
ILamourCar
20Pcs A3144 A3144E OH3144E Hall Effect Sensor

Via Amazon. Just to make sure; these will work on most eacooters right?

Just curious: If you read the thread, and since those aren't mentioned anywhere in the thread, but another part number is, why did you order those, instead of the part number that *is* listed in the thread?