ferro
100 µW
So I have seen a few posts with a lot of questions regarding the R10 over the last year or so but few answers. So here are some answers. My house mate bought a r10 last February and has put about 2000 miles on it since then. Stock it is a nice bike, it works well has the ability to climb most hills and can achieve the advertised range ( if you ride it like a bicycle and pedal ). Today however the only stock electrical component left on the bike is the bottom bracket drive motor. The first modification made to the bike was replacing the derailleur with the Nuvinci N360 and honestly if you were to make only one modification to this bike this should be it. However if you plan on running it without a tensioner (like the Zocco Rossa versions stock setup) DO NOT DO IT And if you own such a Zocco Rossa buy a Surly Singleator A.S.A.P. The articulation of the swingarm puts too much side load on the N360 axle and it will not last. While it does nothing to improve raw performance the N360 makes the bike more enjoyable to use and does increase the gear range over the stock 7 speed derailleur. Howerer due to space restrictions you can only use a 16 to 22 tooth rear chailwheel (smaller or larger will not fit), so to really take advantage of it you must replace the front chain ring which is possible and reasonably simple. Any 130mm BCD standard chain ring will fit. You will however need a 3 jaw gear puller and some mechanical aptitude. (if you need help with this let me know) There are two keyed freewheel clutches inside the housing between the chainring and crank ( in one post I read someone waited 7 weeks for rmartin to replace this failed part, you can buy one for about $25 if you need to know where I can send you the link ) be carefull reinstalling these if you put pressure on the outer race it will fail.
The next modification was to increase power ( go figure...). So a 48v 10 Ah Headway pack was ordered, and a call to ebikes.ca was placed and a 48V 35 amp controller, cycle analyst, and new throttle were soon on their way. BTW if you are thinking about puchasing from Grin Tech, DO IT, excellent company to deal with. Installing the new controller is extremely simple as the phase wire and hall sensor wiring colors from the motor match up exactly with Grin's Infineon controller. Well the new setup REALLY woke the bike up as my coccyx can personally attest to. Word of advice get familiar with a e-bike before trying wheelies. Currently there are about 700 miles on the new setup, with no issues so far. Running a 54 tooth front chain ring and a 18 tooth rear the bike will achieve 30 MPH and go about 1.8 to 2.2 miles per Ah drawn (dependant on load, terrain, wind, etc.) without pedaling. Switching to a 22 tooth rear ring makes it unstoppable at our local single track park. The motor seems to have no trouble drawing 1800watts although it rarely draws more than 700 watts or so. I believe you could burn it up if you tried or were ignorant (1800 watts produces a lot of heat in that small space) but like I said it rarely draws more than 700 watts and adding a little pedal effort drops wattage draw immediately So far it seems to be able to take the peak draw for short bursts. This bicycle does not get babied (50 miles with two wrecks in the last 48 hours) and so far no issues. I feel it is a great e-bike. So now for the bad. The frame is CHEAP there is a lot of flex in the head tube, the motor mount offset is wrong and as a result one pedal is futher from the centerline than the other. On the other hand I expect more from a bicycle than the average person. If you plan on riding this thing on pavement it should last a long time. If you want to take it to the single track regularly you may see the same shortcomings. Future plans include rewinding the motor and going to a 72v setup. What did you expect?![Twisted :twisted: :twisted:](/sphere/data/assets/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
The next modification was to increase power ( go figure...). So a 48v 10 Ah Headway pack was ordered, and a call to ebikes.ca was placed and a 48V 35 amp controller, cycle analyst, and new throttle were soon on their way. BTW if you are thinking about puchasing from Grin Tech, DO IT, excellent company to deal with. Installing the new controller is extremely simple as the phase wire and hall sensor wiring colors from the motor match up exactly with Grin's Infineon controller. Well the new setup REALLY woke the bike up as my coccyx can personally attest to. Word of advice get familiar with a e-bike before trying wheelies. Currently there are about 700 miles on the new setup, with no issues so far. Running a 54 tooth front chain ring and a 18 tooth rear the bike will achieve 30 MPH and go about 1.8 to 2.2 miles per Ah drawn (dependant on load, terrain, wind, etc.) without pedaling. Switching to a 22 tooth rear ring makes it unstoppable at our local single track park. The motor seems to have no trouble drawing 1800watts although it rarely draws more than 700 watts or so. I believe you could burn it up if you tried or were ignorant (1800 watts produces a lot of heat in that small space) but like I said it rarely draws more than 700 watts and adding a little pedal effort drops wattage draw immediately So far it seems to be able to take the peak draw for short bursts. This bicycle does not get babied (50 miles with two wrecks in the last 48 hours) and so far no issues. I feel it is a great e-bike. So now for the bad. The frame is CHEAP there is a lot of flex in the head tube, the motor mount offset is wrong and as a result one pedal is futher from the centerline than the other. On the other hand I expect more from a bicycle than the average person. If you plan on riding this thing on pavement it should last a long time. If you want to take it to the single track regularly you may see the same shortcomings. Future plans include rewinding the motor and going to a 72v setup. What did you expect?
![Twisted :twisted: :twisted:](/sphere/data/assets/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)