Sabvoton SVMC7280 Throttle will not work......

arcticflyer

10 mW
Joined
Apr 7, 2024
Messages
21
Location
Thurmont, MD
I purchased a Sabvoton SVMC 7280 (M) from ebay (new in the box). 66 bucks so I thought hey, will learn on it and figure out how to program with and test my new 3000W-5000W QS205 that is slated for a build soon. This is my first experience with Sabvoton (I am a Grin guy all the way but they do not have larger more powerful controllers). Got the bluetooth and the USB for PC. Hooked it all up to my motor got both the bluetooth and the USB going and reading the controller. Did the Hall test and it indicates "test ok" but there is NO throttle the motor will not move nor does it even try. It is as if the throttle is locked out by a setting that totally escapes me after hours of trying. The controller hall plug plugs into my QS205 perfectly with all wires matching. There is no screen plug on this controller at all. It has a 3 speed switch mode, 5V throttle wire, 12V high brake wire, white reverse wire, red and black with 5V and some alarm wires. I turned off all ebrake functions and regen functions and still can not get the throttle to work. (The motor works on my Grin Phaserunner) Am I missing something?
 

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First guess is that it was sold cheap (used?) because it's broken...does the throttle get the 5v it needs to run from the controller? What voltage range does the throttle output? Does the software have a feedback to show you the throttle voltage being received in realtime?

Second guess is that the software might have a "kickstand" or "lock" function that is enabled in the software (even if it doesn't have the wiring for it).

If the battery voltage is too low for the controller's LVC, it won't oeprate the motor.

Other thoughts:
if the throttle voltage starts out too high or too low, the controller may have a safety so that it doesn't accidentally take off from it being above "throttle off", and prevent any use of throttle in case something is wrong with it.


Regarding "wires matching" on a motor plug, keep in mind that matching colors, if htat's what you're referring to, doesn't matter. What would matter is matching the correct sequence of phases and halls ot match each other, which usually must be determined experimentally, or by using the autolearn function of a controller if it has one.

If the phase/hall combo is incorrect, you might see no apparent response from the motor to a throttle input because it sees the wrong hall signals for the expected response, and so drives the phases wrong, then the controller and stops trying to operate the motor.
 
Thanks for the response! It was sold new in the box and there are no signs of wear but no paperwork (means nothing). Ebay seller already refunded me after I tried for hours to get it going but I feel like there is just something simple that is locking me out.
Throttle gets the 5V as a matter of fact you can see the throttle voltage go from 1.4 to about 4.5 on the phone app and on the PC interface. It goes up and down with the actuation of the thumb throttle. I do an auto learn test each time I fire it up. It does a very slow spin then indicates that the test is "ok". I have programmed all of the battery info and cutoffs into the software.....turned off everything that I can possibly think of that would lock out the throttle....to no avail. It ran on my Phaserunner...go figure!
 
Throttle gets the 5V as a matter of fact you can see the throttle voltage go from 1.4 to about 4.5 on the phone app and on the PC interface. It goes up and down with the actuation of the thumb throttle. I do an auto learn test each time I fire it up. It does a very slow spin then indicates that the test is "ok". I have programmed all of the battery info and cutoffs into the software.....turned off everything that I can possibly think of that would lock out the throttle....to no avail.

Given all that, the most likely thing is that there is a setting in it that requires some other input to be in a state that it is not yet in for it to operate, even if it is not shown in the software. Can't make any specific suggestions, not knowing what you see in each page / tab / screen of the software.


If it's an MQCON version of the sabvoton, you could try their website to see if there's a manual applicable to that version, that might give a better idea of what's going on.

There are also other threads about sabvotons of various versions, that might have similar problems and solutions to them.
 
I think this alarm wiring is keeping my motor locked out…i read in the manual that when anti theft is active the controller kicks the motor but not the actual throttle signal which explains why is see it working in the software but the motor won’t move. How do I disable this function?
 

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Here are some screen shots of the app.
I'm pretty sure there are more settings than those, in the sabvoton setup program(s) (vs the app); you'd have to look around to see what is actually available for your specific model. The app screens you show don't show any of the inputs, what they are for or what their states (or expected states) are, and since tha'ts what you need to know or be able to change, the app you've got is insufficient (assuming that's what the problem is).

Some versions of the setup program I've seen have ways to choose what inputs are used for what functions, and/or if they're enabled, or have high or low or variable input, etc.

The Mqcon site has a page showing part of the setup program for the SVMC types
1747193095791.png
 
If it's not plugged into an alarm system, then it's not enabled. Did you try swapping the blue and green phase wires in the pic, and seeing if there's movement when you twist the throttle?

Yes the controller won't even power on without an alarm code when I do that.
If it's setting off the alarm when changing phase wires, then it sounds like it's really wired wrong. The alarm should have nothing to do with the phase wires; that should only be the ones in the "alarm cable".

Swapping phase wires should just change motor direction (when done along with the corresponding halls if it was already working correctly. If it wasn't, then swapping them is the start of the process of determining which order to connect the wires for phases and halls to get the motor to spin correctly, when autolearn doesn't work or isn't available).
 
If it's setting off the alarm when changing phase wires, then it sounds like it's really wired wrong. The alarm should have nothing to do with the phase wires; that should only be the ones in the "alarm cable".

Swapping phase wires should just change motor direction (when done along with the corresponding halls if it was already working correctly. If it wasn't, then swapping them is the start of the process of determining which order to connect the wires for phases and halls to get the motor to spin correctly, when autolearn doesn't work or isn't available).

Those learning functions don't always work, and a quick phase swap could rule out, or in, other issues masquerading as a throttle problem.
Using the flow chart, the "stuck" motor only takes 3 combinations of phase wire swaps to test before the motor spins smoothly; if it's going the wrong direction, then you swap hall sensor wires.

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I'm sorry Amberwolf I should have been detailed in my documenting what happened when I said set off an alarm code (had that in my brain) I should have said threw and ERROR code. I'm sorry about that. Thank you guys for your help so far. I have an E-bike page for the Freesky Warrior Owners with over 400 members that I am admin...so I know how much time you spend.
There are a number of things that can stop the motor according to the manual: Brake protection, throttle Protect, stop brake, electronic brake and others. I will give some shots of the Windows App I have been using when possible. The software says it is running in normal mode at the end of programming. However, I saw a version of the app somewhere on line that looked different than mine. Going to look today. Thank you for the chart E-HP!
 
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Just wanted to thank you guys for your help and advice. I did not solve the riddle yet and at this point with the time consumed and frustration level I have to walk away for a bit and revisit it down the road. Have learned over the years this approach sometimes yields fruit after a rest, re-think and research. If this is solved I will certainly come back and post it up with the fix or the pic of the controller in the garbage can.
 
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