Samsung 25R/LG 18650HE2/ Sony VTC5 high power 18650 battery
- Thread starter Ebikebert
- Start date
Overclocker
10 kW
yep that's not a good design
so i designed my pack like this
so i designed my pack like this
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
Why it is not good of soldering?
If you soldering it right, I don't see any problems.
This design is much better than nickel strips......
If you soldering it right, I don't see any problems.
This design is much better than nickel strips......
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
Aaha!
I have soldered 230 25R cells, I hope they perform well.
have not tested it yet.....
But I have charge and discharge few packs.....
It seems of cells are low quality control, not every packs has the same charge and discharge capacity...
I have soldered 230 25R cells, I hope they perform well.
have not tested it yet.....
But I have charge and discharge few packs.....
It seems of cells are low quality control, not every packs has the same charge and discharge capacity...
Overclocker
10 kW
yes soldering is bad. but just exactly how bad? that is the subject of an upcoming test. i put aside 8pcs from the same batch. unsoldered. to be compared w/ soldered
ohzee
100 kW
OK riba & fellas. Wanted to verify this looked good before I got to far into it.
I have 10 and 6 gauge copper and largest in the silicone wire is 8. The 6 gauge copper is not easy to make those small cuts and
keep all the strands together so what I used there is the 10 gauge copper and I took some sand paper an did a pass to scratch
in between the cells on the nickel.
Thanks in advance for the assistance.
I have 10 and 6 gauge copper and largest in the silicone wire is 8. The 6 gauge copper is not easy to make those small cuts and
keep all the strands together so what I used there is the 10 gauge copper and I took some sand paper an did a pass to scratch
in between the cells on the nickel.
Thanks in advance for the assistance.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
Wheazel
10 kW
Overclocker said:
Very much looking forward to your results.
I have had this question on my mind for a long time and its quite hard to isolate the core of the question if you dont have a specific testingsetup that can eliminate other factors.
ohzee
100 kW
riba2233 said:That's too thick (that's what she said lol)
Since all those short connections add up to final core thickness, and you want that to be around 10-16mm2, you can use 1.5-2mm2 for every connection
Thanks bud. So I need approximately 14 awg copper wire. May need to go buy some of that only have silicone wire that thin.
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/awg-to-mm.htm
Wheazel said:
such testing would be great. maybe its good to test 2sec soldering, 4 sec, 6 sec and so on
some infos about my experience:
i have soldered a battery made of 192 sony vtc4 cells (22s9p) about 2 years ago.
treatment: charged to max 4.125V, discharged to max 3.2V, 16A max current per cell (9p), about 60 -70 cycles now. NEVER balanced.
-> the drift is still below 10mV over entire pack (like on first cycle) which is awesome. no noticeable loss in capacity and it has the same punch as on first day.
if we put the soldering iron on the can, it will not heat directly the lithium layers (not sure how its called excalty) because there is a nickel strip welded to the can inside which makes the connection to this. if soldering time is short enough, there will not be noticeable damage IMO. further i have solderd much longer time at the p-groups where the main wires have been attached, but they do not show any abnormality.
dnmun
1 PW
there is no nickel strip welded to the inside of the cans. there is only aluminum and copper electrodes.
the manufacturers have stated that the cans should not be spot welded in the vicinity of the center of the bottom of the case so they should not be soldered there either.
building a pack with all the can connected in parallel first is a fail. but that is the cheapest way for the manufacturers to build them. it makes it impossible to repair them.
if you solder to the case then use a small connector and solder it to the edge of the bottom to make the connection to the case. hit the solder with the sponge immediately and that keeps the heat down that damages the electrodes.
the manufacturers have stated that the cans should not be spot welded in the vicinity of the center of the bottom of the case so they should not be soldered there either.
building a pack with all the can connected in parallel first is a fail. but that is the cheapest way for the manufacturers to build them. it makes it impossible to repair them.
if you solder to the case then use a small connector and solder it to the edge of the bottom to make the connection to the case. hit the solder with the sponge immediately and that keeps the heat down that damages the electrodes.
thanks for the correction. thats what i meant^^dnmun said:
the point is the heat at the place where the electrodes are connected to the lithium layers is not that high like on the solder joint.
i have tried hitting the solder joint as fast as possible with the sponge, but than the solder did not look good anymore so i stopped doing this. it more looked like a cold solder joint which cannot be good..
Allex
100 MW
Here is my latest pack:
I used a can with compressed "air" to make the cells cold again after soldering. What I did is to spray while the can is up side down, then instead of gas we have super cold liquid coming out, making the cell colder than 0C° instantly
And of course a powerfull Iron(150W in my case) is important so I only touch the can for one second.
I used a can with compressed "air" to make the cells cold again after soldering. What I did is to spray while the can is up side down, then instead of gas we have super cold liquid coming out, making the cell colder than 0C° instantly
And of course a powerfull Iron(150W in my case) is important so I only touch the can for one second.
Allex
100 MW
25A for bbs02, 12AWG main leads
madin88 said:Wheazel said:
such testing would be great. maybe its good to test 2sec soldering, 4 sec, 6 sec and so on
some infos about my experience:
i have soldered a battery made of 192 sony vtc4 cells (22s9p) about 2 years ago.
treatment: charged to max 4.125V, discharged to max 3.2V, 16A max current per cell (9p), about 60 -70 cycles now. NEVER balanced.
-> the drift is still below 10mV over entire pack (like on first cycle) which is awesome. no noticeable loss in capacity and it has the same punch as on first day.
if we put the soldering iron on the can, it will not heat directly the lithium layers (not sure how its called excalty) because there is a nickel strip welded to the can inside which makes the connection to this. if soldering time is short enough, there will not be noticeable damage IMO. further i have solderd much longer time at the p-groups where the main wires have been attached, but they do not show any abnormality.
-also have soldered battery made of 384 sony cells vtc4 4 x 12S8P about 2 years ago
-treatment: charged to max 4.20V, discharged to max 3.0V, 15A max current per cell (8p), about 200 cycles now.
-no noticeable loss in capacity and it has the same punch as on first day.
Hi guys,
I want to make my own battery pack.
I have a Chinese motor 48V 1000w (means 21A)
I didnt buy yet the controller neither the charger.
I'm thinking about buy 16s1p 38250 (headway ?) 10Ah (at least 300 euros/dollars)
or
I would like to try Sony VTC5 2600mAh.
I found on Aliexpress, maybe they're fake ones, but I'll buy 2 cells for testing (the comments are bad and good.. some of them tell it's real ones, some of themm it's fake ones)
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/US18650VTC5-battery-3-7V-2600mAh-high-drain-30A-vtc5-battery-for-Sony-electonic-cigarette-power-tool/32227860426.html
(Please, don't give me eshop website, Im in Japan and the shipping is REALLY REALLY expensive !)
I would like to make a 13s2p means 10~11A / cell for 110 euros/dollars.
1) Is it good for you ? And if my ebike will get good performance, then I'll make a 13s5p for not stressing cells.
2) A BMS charger is better than a basic charger + bms in the battery pack ? Which is cheaper ? (I don't care to buy a BMS 13s charger if I can use it with below 13s and with LiPo and LiFePo4 etc...)
My goal is just to make an experimentation, not go really far.
Thank you very much !
EDIT : FORGET EVERYTHING, I just read SONY doesnt make VTC5 anymore ... Then, they are fake ones.
I want to make my own battery pack.
I have a Chinese motor 48V 1000w (means 21A)
I didnt buy yet the controller neither the charger.
I'm thinking about buy 16s1p 38250 (headway ?) 10Ah (at least 300 euros/dollars)
or
I would like to try Sony VTC5 2600mAh.
I found on Aliexpress, maybe they're fake ones, but I'll buy 2 cells for testing (the comments are bad and good.. some of them tell it's real ones, some of themm it's fake ones)
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/US18650VTC5-battery-3-7V-2600mAh-high-drain-30A-vtc5-battery-for-Sony-electonic-cigarette-power-tool/32227860426.html
(Please, don't give me eshop website, Im in Japan and the shipping is REALLY REALLY expensive !)
I would like to make a 13s2p means 10~11A / cell for 110 euros/dollars.
1) Is it good for you ? And if my ebike will get good performance, then I'll make a 13s5p for not stressing cells.
2) A BMS charger is better than a basic charger + bms in the battery pack ? Which is cheaper ? (I don't care to buy a BMS 13s charger if I can use it with below 13s and with LiPo and LiFePo4 etc...)
My goal is just to make an experimentation, not go really far.
Thank you very much !
EDIT : FORGET EVERYTHING, I just read SONY doesnt make VTC5 anymore ... Then, they are fake ones.
ohzee
100 kW
Found some 14 gauge solid copper and used that to reinforce the nickel.
Just added my balance taps and now going to put the pack together like so. Took a while and was a pita , but hoping
the cells will give me all they can once complete.
Still a little bit of work left.
Just added my balance taps and now going to put the pack together like so. Took a while and was a pita , but hoping
the cells will give me all they can once complete.
Still a little bit of work left.
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