Scooter P-Settings/Battery Question

[kj34nck5]

Hi. So, I have this generic home setup oem system. 48v controller and a 48v battery. However, we would get to the end of the street and the whole system would die.

I decided to take a look at the p-settings. They were ALL wrong. The wheel was reading as 12” and it is a 26”. The voltage said 36v. It said it had 30 magnets when I believe it is supposed to be 46.

Anyway, my question is, dying like it did; is that consistent with a 48v battery that the system thinks is a 36v? and of course the other incorrect parameters were probably also contributing…

I changed all the settings manually to match the specs. as it sits. Haven’t been able to check it yet though.

This all stemmed from a stupid E10 error.

 

[amberwolf]

Did the system ever work correctly? If so, what happened between the time it worked, and the time it didn't?

If it didn't ever work correctly, where did the system come from? Used, or new from the manufacturer? Since it's "OEM", what brand and model scooter is it?


If you had a system that was 48v but the controller thought it was 36v, it would not be likely to shutdown or have a problem with it, other than that it would never shutoff for low battery even when the battery was actually low, since it's LVC would be set for a 36v battery, and a 48v battery would be damaged before that was reached (if the 48v battery doesn't have it's own correctly-setup built-in BMS emergency protection against this).

The other version of this, where a 36v battery is detected as 48v, *would* have a problem as only a full 36v battery is above a 48v LVC, and as soon as it discharges a little bit, especially with a load on it, the controller would stop providing assist as it would think the battery is empty. It wouldn't turn off (die), however, the display would remain on, it just wouldn't provide any motor power.

If the system actually powers off, the battery is probably defective or damaged, with at least one cell group that is so bad that it hits LVC and causes the BMS to turn off the output to protect the cell(s) from damage that can lead to a fire. If you are electrically experienced (or are a careful type of troubleshooter and willing to learn), you can open up the pack and test the voltage of each cell group (there are numerous threads about this, in other battery/shutdown problem threads), and post them all here, starting from the most negative group, and we can see if any are likely to be causing your problem.

It could also just be a battery incapable of the current the system requires, and so the whole thing sags in voltage so much the BMS protects for the same basic reason.


FWIW, "OEM" and "generic" are opposite things. OEM means that it's a complete setup built as-is by a company as a unit. "Generic" normally means it's built up (usually by the owner) of assorted no-name parts, or parts that are sold under many names but are identical.