Scott Spark comp 29er + crystalyte HS3540

Got the relay latch sorted.
Got new helmet giro remedy.
Got brand x body armor.
Got lizard skins knee / shin combo.

Been thrashing this bike on some harsh xc trails at eagle MTb park, I hope the handling doesn't change too much, might put the kit on an old mongoose y frame after a while and put a gng on the Scott spark.

Got the spokes n rim ready for the wheel build.
Got 10 x 3wat LEDs for rear light.

Also finished work on my recent home brew temp controller so I have time to work on the bike now :)
 
made rear light. got a vid to upload. its sooo bright.

I was doin a xc trail the other dsay and bent the stock front rim beyond repair, (mini taco) so i'm upgrading to:
Sun Ringle MTX 33 Welded Disc Rim 29er 2012 (36 spoke)
76080.jpg


just waiting for hyena to receive the CA V3 and the dc-dc converter, couple days then i'll be installing :)
 
Couldn't get the switch to hold with epoxy. Scored the metal in brake leaver but then the arm on switch broke, I ripped the switch out by the wire so it wasn't too secure the second time anyway. I'll have to use the next size up micro switch and bolt it in with 3mm bolts.
 
Got the next size up switch from jaycar and made a bracket to hold it under the base of the brake lever. now regen will activate with first bit of motion of brake lever.
the bracket is aluminium and held in-place with an m3 bolt with spring washer. the switch is bolted to the bracket.
[youtube]3mutcFbyW4s[/youtube]

also made a nice little button bracket for horn switch, and push on push off switch for lights, will have to switch negative common i think, ill see when i get the dc-dc converter cos 1 light is 12v the other is 72v. the bracket is just some black plastic from a zippy box that i shaped to the switches and handle bar with hole for gear lever mount bolt to go through. its not as strong as 3mm aluminium i was considering but plastic is so much easyer to work with.
switches are ip 65 and ip 67 rated (weather resistant/proof)
[youtube]8LwB9V7-tpw[/youtube]
 
Another weekend comes to an end. I got allot done in general with tidying the back yard for my GF's Bday, sold the last 3 of 10 of my home brew temperature controllers, and finished a keg of larger about an hour ago :) . Back to electric bike... well i went and got a few bits and pieces after my batteries and controller arrived so i could make a case. I tried to put the batteries and controller in the frame but would have been too tight. so controller under frame and batteries in a box in frame. I made a parallelogram -prism / wedge with tip cut off for battery box with 7mm ply and some right angle edge brackets. I'm going to have access to the inside via the front 80% of the left side. this will have a bunch of m3 bolts holding it in, the rest will be epoxied and screws removed because they protrude into box and could puncture my precious batteries.
Also check out my crazy tail light (sorry i called it a brake light in vid).. a few conduit clamps and 1/4" bolts with 10mm aluminum tube.
I intend to paint the box, but here it is so far...
[youtube]sAo1CvuMQC8[/youtube]
 
Went to LBS today with 12G spokes from crystalyte, velocity p35 rim, and hs3540 hub motor today. The bloke in the shop was impressed with my rim asking were I got it cos he cant get them any more, I got it from him a month ago, so thats lucky, also he was particularly impressed with the hub motor having Hyenas air cooling mod and being such a beefy motor. Unfortunately i will have to file out the holes in the rim. Its a good thing that some one so experienced told me it cant be drilled cos it might tear out more metal than desired. I had seen a vid about it on you tube[youtube]7-QZazAY0cc[/youtube]. so i need thin round file and about 2 hours I'm guessing.

QUESTION? QUESTION? QUESTION? QUESTION?:...
1. Little help with CA v3, got the crystalyte controller, will the CA over ride my throtle if the throtle is pluged into the controller?
2. Key switch to lock the electric brake on so it makes it harder to steal? instead of cutting power with key switch, witch it hard to do, have a BFO switch and a key switch?

sorry i have looked for answers a bit but im bussy building so if anyone knows I'd appreciate the help, thanks in advance.

BTW jaycar has a new product that switches high volt high amp...
product_16043.jpg

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SF2247
its only 48 volt but considering it can do 500 amps at that it should be able to do 72 volt 50 amp. I'm sure there is an equation for this but its 10 times less amps and 1.5 times volts
 
Spoke holes done. I used a "Nicholson" chainsaw file 4.0mm (5/32") apparently the standard size for spoke holes 13g to 15g is 4.1mm, as was the case with the velocity P35 29er rim. there were only two files at bunnings that would have done the job. alternatively I could have used a dremel grinding bit.

I was careful to make the holes just big enough to start the nipple going through so as its tightened it will fill the hole perfectly.

I'm starting to have confidence that this wheel is going to be nice and strong :) , after fileing thr holes in the rim, I could see how nice n thick that part of the rim is (3mm).

I also picked up an off cut of steel 50mm x 10mm x480mm for the torque arms. 2 x 10mm thick arms should allow for any small inconsistancies I may create by making them by hand (rather than milling).
 
Ive done some more work on the bike. Still waiting for wheel to be laced up. and still waiting for delivery of 36 spoke strong front wheel from http://www.chainreactioncycles.com , should both be ready on monday. I have mounted the cycle analyst with a bolt through the back of it to the head stem, also mounted a high voltage scooter horn under the head stem on the same bolt.
[youtube]vpTXAqjfQ58[/youtube]
 
I changed the wireing on the charger power supply so that there no plugs on the cord being used. The plugs have bad connections, that is they have a small amount of resistance and were creating a bit of heat with 250watts going through. This was a contributing factor to the voltage drop. So I used a cord that has both 12v channels and only a plug on the end. I paralleled the channels and can now pull 250watts with a voltage drop to 10.7v , still a bit low but its working really well. Charges the pack in a few hrs. I'm thinking about getting another 2 of the charger and power supply so I can do a full charge in 1 hr. I'll upload I video of my mate riding around the park with the 12watt led headlight.
 
Not sure if you have the CA working yet (basically, you have to do a throttle cable bypass). You can also set it up in legacy mode (following teklektik's guide), simply by disconnecting the throttle wire which goes to the CA direct connection plug (from the controller to the CA).

The other alternative is modding the controller. There are a few posts on this a while back in the v3 beta thread.

Anyway, even in low "speed" mode, the bike will still accelerate at full power at full throttle, only it stops accelerating at a lower speed.
(any alternatives to this involve using the custom CA throttle settings).
 
Architectonic said:
Not sure if you have the CA working yet (basically, you have to do a throttle cable bypass). You can also set it up in legacy mode (following teklektik's guide), simply by disconnecting the throttle wire which goes to the CA direct connection plug.

The other alternative is modding the controller. There are a few posts on this a while back in the v3 beta thread.

Anyway, even in low power mode, the bike will still accelerate at full power at full throttle, only it stops accelerating at a lower speed.
(any alternatives to this involve using the custom CA throttle settings).
Click to expand...
cool thanks, I really apriciate the help. just threading the second clamp on torque arm atm. should be able to setup CA v3 later this week.
 
Found some nice info from justin's beta thread.
" With the V3 CA devices, the functionality of the CA now includes not just throttle limiting, but actually driving the controller's throttle signal directly, and this is NOT possible if there is a diode inline with the throttle signal. So, if you have a CA-DP compatible controller and want to use the CA-V3 device as your new throttle, you will need to do a bit of modification. Here are 3 approaches:

#1) Swap pins around so that the green wire from the CA-DP goes into the controller's regular throttle input. You can either do this at the CA-DP plug end as shown below, or you could do it on the controller end:
file.php

Guna give it a go. There are other options but I want current limiting so I can get more efficiency, also want smooth throttle ramp up.
 
GREAT NEWS!
got the ca v3 going with the modification in last post. ill do a video to show the wire conection and all the settings. ramp up works, electric brake works as a cut off for now, power restriction is working to its a funny feeling, like an auto pilot or something. have to fine tune it of course but its all working except regen at this stage not sure if the controller actually suports this fnction.
 
Well done. I just finished my exams last week, so I had time today to redo the wiring and set up the CA for the throttle.

I forgot that the 'legacy' mode puts out full throttle in this wiring configuration. I managed to do a burnout on my bare foot. :oops:

Lucky it was in low speed mode. :lol:
 
Oooooo no way that sucks! Maby try the green wire trick?

Just had a nice run to work about 8 km at 50 - 60 km/hr. Voltage drop from 75 to 70. Gives me enough for a round trip and into CBD after work and back to so that's awesome:)
need to tweak ramp down and might throttle amps instead of watts.
 
Architectonic said:
I managed to do a burnout on my bare foot. :oops:
Click to expand...
Been there, done that! Youtube "when ebikes attack" for a few examples of my run away bikes :lol:


pendragon8000 said:
need to tweak ramp down and might throttle amps instead of watts.
Click to expand...
With the minimal voltage sag you get from high C rate lipo limiting the amps and watts will have essentially the same effect through most of the discharge. Keeping the power/amps down will certainly get you more range though. If you look at what sort of current draw you're seeing at your desired top speed on the flat and then limit the current to that amount it'll stop you sucking a heap more power on hills and heavy throttle application without limiting your overall speed. You might have to pedal a little more on hills as your speed drops a bit but with a powerful controller it'll really pull bulk amps if you try to power up a hill which is not a good thing if you're trying to maximise range. Once you get used to the power draw in different situations you can do this manually by backing off the throttle and just keeping an eye on the amps/watts. This is what I do, blasting along the flat at 50-60 but automatically backing off to 40 odd and pedalling more on hills to keep the amp draw low(ish). On really steep hills you get used to high speed and dropping down to 20-30km/hr seems slow. That is until you let off the throttle all together and find you'd be busting your arse to do even 5km/hr otherwise :)
 
pendragon8000 said:
Oooooo no way that sucks! Maby try the green wire trick?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is what I tried. The problem is that I had min throttle -> 0.00, max throttle->0.02, throttle out->4.5 volt (full throttle). (for legacy mode)

In legacy mode, the controller detects throttle fault and ignores the input, but that didn't happen as I wired the throttle direct to the CA. LOL

Live and learn, (and what looks like major gravel rash).

Glad to hear pioneers like Hynea have already been there and done that. :lol:
 
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