Shenzhen (ecrazyman) Controller Information

[Knuckles]

On the LVC topic ...
The values of R3 and R73 vary from controller to controller. BTW ... The LVC circuit only draws about 2.5 mA from the orange wire.
LVC Reference this post here ... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4282&start=0#p63469

On the voltage regulator (VR) topic ...
The values of R1 and R2 have also changed from fechter test controller to latest crazy controller (my recent shipment).
VR Reference this post here ... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4282&start=0#p63631
BTW ... The total current draw of the orange wire under actual load (riding) conditions is around 80 mA.

R1 and R2 and R3 and R73 are different for different voltage controllers. They can also vary based on production run.
So mod-ers be warned. You must verify exactly what you are modding and why. The LVC and VR are interrelated.

Knuckles

 

[computerpc101]

Pin4 to 3.3 volts and Pin2 to ground, and pin3 to pin9 of procossor or one end pin of resonator.

It is easiler to put is 27MHZ Xtal, you can find them in kid CB walkie talkie ( 27.125MHZ) or buy in for $1, They are easiler to solder too.

Yes, 27MHZ do make my bike better, my Tiny 16" wheel bike, I can fellowing city traffic and suprise car driver, With 24Mhz, It is just slightly slow and it does upset some fast car drivers.

However, I am thinking to end this project by selling my project bike with everything for $200, It doesn't reach my goal of range to work, It sucks up powever crazy and my bike with 5 x 12 volts 12AMP SLB battery weight 50 lbs can not last for 15KM to work.

I fitted a 24 MHz resonator to my ecrazyman controller works fine but being the type of person who what’s every mph I can get, I bought some ACT9200 27.00 MHz Oscillators http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=300236046057 not shore how to fit it can anyone help http://www.actcrystals.com/datasheets/Oscillators - SMD/ACT9200.pdf they come in packs of 50 so if anyone needs some let me no.

 

[The7]

However, I am thinking to end this project by selling my project bike with everything for $200, It doesn't reach my goal of range to work, It sucks up powever crazy and my bike with 5 x 12 volts 12AMP SLB battery weight 50 lbs can not last for 15KM to work.

You are pushing this little e-bike far behind its limit.
At that high speed, the motor freq is very high and the motor iron loss is very high.

 

[aaannndddyyy]

Pin4 to 3.3 volts and Pin2 to ground, and pin3 to pin9 of procossor or one end pin of resonator.

It is easiler to put is 27MHZ Xtal, you can find them in kid CB walkie talkie ( 27.125MHZ) or buy in for $1, They are easiler to solder too.

Cheers for the info.
The resonator I got from EBay said " Operating Temp: -10 to +70 C, Voltage: 5.0V "
so connected pin4 to the 5 volt hull sensor wire.
Resonator works fine 25mph motor power only, 30 mph with a little work from me.
Also added a few more batteries (46 Nimh) so now running at 64.4 volts hot off the chargers.

 

[fechter]

To make the current limit adjustable, it looks like changing the value of R8 should do it.

Locate R8 on the board (see below) and remove it. Attach a pair of small wires to the spot where it used to be. Note: the position for C7 above it is parallel to R8, so the wires can go across both spots.

Bring the other end of this pair of wires out to a 50K potentiometer that has a 15k fixed resistor in series with it. The original value of R8 was 18K in mine, so you should really use a 18K to keep the same maxumum. 15k is a more common value and will give you a slight increase in maximum. The value of the potentiometer will determine the adjustment range. If you used a 20k pot instead, it would allow the adjustment to go down to about 1/2 the max.
50k should take it way down.

NOTE: this mod is not tested. (Edit: tested by Steveo- works OK)

 

[steveo]

To make the current limit adjustable, it looks like changing the value of R8 should do it.

Locate R8 on the board (see below) and remove it. Attach a pair of small wires to the spot where it used to be. Note: the position for C7 above it is parallel to R8, so the wires can go across both spots.

Bring the other end of this pair of wires out to a 50K potentiometer that has a 15k fixed resistor in series with it. The original value of R8 was 18K in mine, so you should really use a 18K to keep the same maxumum. 15k is a more common value and will give you a slight increase in maximum. The value of the potentiometer will determine the adjustment range. If you used a 20k pot instead, it would allow the adjustment to go down to about 1/2 the max.
50k should take it way down.

NOTE: this mod is not tested.

Awsome!!

thanks Alot Fechter!, This is exactly what i needed for my friends Ride. Hes using sla's with a 45amp shunt; tooo much current outa those batteries; I will try out this mod some time this week and let you know my findings; or maybe you will try it first

-steveo

 

[tostino]

Fechter, you are my savior! Now when my controller comes in, I will be able to run it at 28v, 40-50 amps .

That way my motor RPM isn't so high it's hard to pedal along, and my BMC motor doesn't run into the frequency problem even with the modded resonator, which it likely would at 56v.

 

[steveo]

To make the current limit adjustable, it looks like changing the value of R8 should do it.

Locate R8 on the board (see below) and remove it. Attach a pair of small wires to the spot where it used to be. Note: the position for C7 above it is parallel to R8, so the wires can go across both spots.

Bring the other end of this pair of wires out to a 50K potentiometer that has a 15k fixed resistor in series with it. The original value of R8 was 18K in mine, so you should really use a 18K to keep the same maxumum. 15k is a more common value and will give you a slight increase in maximum. The value of the potentiometer will determine the adjustment range. If you used a 20k pot instead, it would allow the adjustment to go down to about 1/2 the max.
50k should take it way down.

NOTE: this mod is not tested.

I confirm this mod does work!!

I had some resistors laying around to equal approx 16.5kohms + 50k Jumbo potentiometer

I used this in my friends scooter build, he is using sla's with a 45amp shunt!... I estimate with this mod at its full potential in bringing it down the current to approx 20-30amps. He can't use a watts up meter as everything is setup for 72v

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR SLA USERS TO GO EASY ON YOUR BATTERIES!!

-steveo

 

[fechter]

Thanks for the report Steveo. You earn a fried guinea pig:

It would be nice to know the exact high and low current settings. If you wanted an even lower current limit, you could use a 100k pot.

 

[steveo]

Thanks for the report Steveo. You earn a fried guinea pig:

It would be nice to know the exact high and low current settings. If you wanted an even lower current limit, you could use a 100k pot.

Woot thanks!!

I may try the 100k pot if my friend wants a lower current.. maybe good if he get pulled over by the police lol ..
If i get a watts up meter on his ride i will post pics/videos to show you the results.

-steveo

 

[tostino]

So if I wanted to raise the amp limit close to the max the controller can handle (my batteries can put out 90 amps continuous). Should I just put say, a 4-5k resistor, and a 20k pot?
I don't know how much that would increase the limit...

What would you suggest?

 

[fechter]

You could increase the current limit that way, but you risk melting the shunt wires. It's generally better to increase the maximum limit by soldering in the shunt, then use the adjustment pot to lower it. If you only increase the limit by 20% or so, you could keep the stock shunt.

 

[tostino]

Hmm, 20% isn't much... It only gets me to about 36 amps. If I need to replace the shunt, what should I do? Where can I buy the parts needed to do a modification like that?

 

[fechter]

There are several approaches. The idea is to reduce the resistance of the shunt.
You don't want to put the limit so high that the FETs or motor can self destruct.
The combined rating of the FETs needs to be many times higher than the actual battery current limit.

The shunt is a pair of wires located in the corner of the board:


The simplest approach is to squeeze the wires closer together and fill in the space between them with solder. Here's what it looks like on a Crystalyte, basically the same idea:


This is not too precise, but generally about doubles the limit depending on how thick you put the solder. If you put too much and the limit is too high, you need to remove some solder with solder wick or a solder sucker.

Another approach is to make a copper wire jumper that goes across the shunt. Copper has a much lower resistance than the wires in the shunt, so you need to use a longer piece. You could start with a loop of 18ga. wire about 6 inches long and try that. If the limit is still too low, you can trim part of the wire to make the loop shorter. If the limit is too high, use a longer wire. The loop can be laid out inside the box.

 

[tostino]

Thank you very much for that! Extremely helpful .

Would you say that running this controller at 40-50 amps would kill it? I don't really know if my voltage matters for how much amps i'm putting through the fets (as long as it's under the max of course), but I am running my controller at 28v nominal (1s6p milwaukee packs).

 

[fechter]

That's always sort of hard to predict. It depends on what FETs yours has.

Running a higher voltage increases the peak current on the FETs for a given limit. Since you're running at a fairly low voltage, you can go higher on the limit.

 

[Knuckles]

Exactly correct. That is why the stock 72V 30 amp controller with 80nf10 mosfets is a good candidate for a 36V PUMA controller with a higher amp rating.
To run the PUMA, this would require the 24-mhz resonator overclock mod (to elevate the critical frequency), the R1/R2 mod (to provide 40V max the the LM7824 VR),
the R73 mod (to lower the LVC), and finally the shunt mod w/ or w/o the current limit adjustable mod.
I will provide the 24-mhz, R1/R2, and R73 mod on the stock 72V 30 amp controller for $10 extra.
I have everything in stock now. Just contact me by PM and let me know the desired battery voltage and LVC value (no less than 22.5V).
The shunt mod and adjustable current limit mod you would have to do yourself if you want to exceed 30 amps.

Also, the newly created 72V 40 amp controller with 4310 mosfets would run even cooler than the 80nf10 controller.
Keywin and I are also now adding the CA connector as standard so if you have a CA you can also adjust the current limit with that external device.

So right now I would say we have a high amp solution for PUMA/BMC at 36V and also the Kollmorgen at 48V.
And of course 72V for all the Direct Drive motor folks.

Here are some pics of a stock 72V 30 amp controller with 80nf10 mosfets w/ the CA connector installed.
I only have one of these and it is for sale now (contact me by PM). See my FOR SALE post here ... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5277&p=79236#p79236

 

[oddjones]

i use a reed switch mounted to the brake body and a magnet mounted to the lever for my e-brakes.

rick

Rick - another PM sent for a kit of these brake parts - that's so much slicker than the horrible after-market e-brakes I've seen - I'm in the UK so if it's a pain for you to put it all together and ship it then a parts list from http://uk.farnell.com/ or somewhere would be fabulous...?

 

[Sturdly]

Knuckles, any idea when you may have the higher clock speed chips to use one of these on a BMC at 48v ? If one did use the current version overclocked at 48v then the BMC will work at 48v correctly up until it reaches critical freq.? I've been trying to follow all the threads and that is how I understand it.

Otherwise get the Bafang from you laced in a 26" at $199 plus shipping and you send modified controller for $ ? more. I don't need to buy controller from ecrazyman and send it to you. Information supplied by me for cut off voltage and nominal operating voltage, correct?

 

[Knuckles]

Well ... let's assume that all PUMA/BMC PMGR motors all have about the same 'critical frequency' when mated to the stock ecrazyman controller pcb (this may or may not be the case - there may be different models of PUMA and BMC that have different pole-pair and/or gear ratios - I don't have a PUMA or BMC so I can only guess).
(btw ... It appears the Kollmorgen PMGR will run OK, however, at 48V with the 24-mhz mod.)

So using a 24-mhz resonator will only solve the PUMA/BMC 'jitter' problem up to about 36V nominal (this is pretty much a proven and reliable mod at this point).
Yet it still may be possible to overclock the stock 20-mhz MCU up to 27-mhz or even 32-mhz (this is on my to-do list btw).

If a 32-mhz overclock (using a crystal) proves to be reliable then this should (in theory) run the PUMA/BMC at 48V.
To the best of my knowledge, however, nobody has yet to try this for an actual real world on-the-road test.

I would prefer to try a 32-mhz mod on the 72V controller (w/ the 100V 80nf10 mosfets) as I have these controllers in stock right now.
These may well also offer a higher amp capability (over 30 amps) than the stock 48V controller (that, I believe, use the 72V 75nf75 mosfets).
The 75nf75 mosfets have a max power dissapation of 200 Watts while the 80nf10 mosfets are rated at 300 Watts.
You can compare a variety of mosfet specs below ...
http://98.131.176.65/endless-sphere/75nf75.pdf
http://98.131.176.65/endless-sphere/456-25859-0-STW80NF10.pdf
http://98.131.176.65/endless-sphere/232-13717-IRFB4310.pdf
http://98.131.176.65/endless-sphere/232-20788-IRFB4110PbF.pdf

If you want to be the first to try a 32-mhz overclock then I guess I'll order some crystals and give it a go.
In fact I am curious as to how many folks would like to try this (highly experimental) type of mod.
So post here if you are willing to try it. Then I will mod it and we can all see what happens

 

[steveo]

To make the current limit adjustable, it looks like changing the value of R8 should do it.

Locate R8 on the board (see below) and remove it. Attach a pair of small wires to the spot where it used to be. Note: the position for C7 above it is parallel to R8, so the wires can go across both spots.

Bring the other end of this pair of wires out to a 50K potentiometer that has a 15k fixed resistor in series with it. The original value of R8 was 18K in mine, so you should really use a 18K to keep the same maxumum. 15k is a more common value and will give you a slight increase in maximum. The value of the potentiometer will determine the adjustment range. If you used a 20k pot instead, it would allow the adjustment to go down to about 1/2 the max.
50k should take it way down.

NOTE: this mod is not tested. (Edit: tested by Steveo- works OK)

Hey Fechter

I modified my second e-crazyman controller today with a 100k pot; I am able to approx use 75k out of the pot before the rest of it gives not throttle response 75-80k; at the lowest setting .. i pull about 1000-1100 watts; I notice that as the bike starts to increase speeds from say 20-30-40km/h the watts starts to raise from 1000 - 1200w range.

Fechter is there anything else i can do to actually lower the current further; don't get me wrong this mod is excellent .. but our legal range here in Ontario is 500w & 32km/h; would it be possible to be able to tune this governor further?

thanks
Steveo

 

[fechter]

Fechter is there anything else i can do to actually lower the current further; don't get me wrong this mod is excellent .. but our legal range here in Ontario is 500w & 32km/h; would it be possible to be able to tune this governor further?

thanks
Steveo

I guess the op amp runs out of gain or something. You could try putting something like 1k across R7. If this works, then you may need to decrease the fixed resistor in series with the pot to get the maximum back to original.

To make the limit even lower, you could always remove one of the shunt wires. This would make the maximum setting less also.

 

[Lessss]

Speedometer
I just reaalized there is no spedometer wire on this controller. My bike stock one has a spedometer wire. Hmm. Now how to make the spedometer work... hmm.

 

[fechter]

One approach would be to use a standard bicycle speedometer sensor and wheel magnet.

Another approach would be to install R61, R62, R63, and Q2, which would provide a buffered hall signal output like a Crystalyte controller on the YBS connection.
R61 is 47K
R62 is 150 ohms
R63 is 2k
Q2 is a NPN transistor like a 2N2222 or 2N3904 type.

 

[steveo]

Fechter is there anything else i can do to actually lower the current further; don't get me wrong this mod is excellent .. but our legal range here in Ontario is 500w & 32km/h; would it be possible to be able to tune this governor further?

thanks
Steveo

I guess the op amp runs out of gain or something. You could try putting something like 1k across R7. If this works, then you may need to decrease the fixed resistor in series with the pot to get the maximum back to original.

To make the limit even lower, you could always remove one of the shunt wires. This would make the maximum setting less also.

Hey Fechter

I will try placing a 1k resistor accross r7; I am currenting using a 10k + 5k resistor in series with my 100k pot; What resistance should i try in series with my 100k pot?

thanks
-steveo