Should have got a torque arm after all

[Parker]

I thought I would be fine as I haven't got a lot of power. Somehow a nut losened and
the motor started spinning. Not too much though. I think I only broke one hall effect wire. I'm
sure the info to fix this is somewhere on here. So if you could point me there or tell me I'd be most grateful.


Parker

 

[lazarus2405]

Hmm, did you cut into any other wires? That is, is the insulation cut and wire exposed even if the wire is intact? Especially with the phase wires, this can cause a momentary short between two that can instantly fry the controller. So, is your controller okay?

If just one Hall wire is cut, you can just splice it back together. If more than that was damaged, you might have blown a Hall sensor. Info on testing and replacing those is here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3720

Best of luck, too. Lots of nasty things can result any time you spin an axle.

 

[Parker]

I believe my controller is ok. I caught it pretty quick and the motor was jerking a bit
that makes me think it's just the green hall effect wire that's broken causing the problem.
It broke right where it goes in to the motor though. I'm thinking I might need to take the motor
apart which I understand requires a gear puller. I saw someone here had a picture of a home made
one that seemed make-able. I was just two pieces of bent metal and a nut and treaded rod I think.
I'll have to search for that again.

 

[Link]

You'll probably have to take it apart, but you might not "need" a gear puller. I managed to get the cover off my Golden Motor with a few screwdrivers and some patience.

If you do want to make your own, they're pretty easy to do. You just need a bent piece of metal (you know what it should look like) with a hole in the middle, a nut, and a bolt. Open the cover enough to get the metal in. Put the bolt through the hole and thread the nut on the other side. Now, with a pair of wrenches, tighten the nut and bolt so that the bolt pushes on the axle an the nut pushes the metal strip (and the cover plate) up.

 

[fechter]

You may not need a gear puller. After you get the cover off, you might be able to remove the bearing with your fingers. Jiggle it while pulling. If you pry the bearing with a screwdriver (or whatever fits), be real careful not to dent the dust shield. When prying, alternate sides to keep it parallel (or use two screwdrivers).

 

[MajorMagnuM]

you mgiht be able to find a metal that is easy to work and easy to harden once you have the shape you need.

 

[steveo]

I remember when this happened to me ..

-Check you hall sensors.... if there ok ..
-hopefully you did not damage the controller ..
-one advantage when i opened my motor was i upgraded to 12AWG instead of the original 14AWG ..
-uses a few flat head screw drivers to pry the cover open gently... be very patient with this & be carefully not to damage internals of the motor.

-steveo

 

[Parker]

I got my bike home and successfully opened it. Now, in addition to the severed hall there are nicks
in the insulation of the other wires. Any recommendation for those. I was thinking just to warp them in
electrical tape. The hall effect wires are in another heat shrink tube. I guess I need to cut that open too.
What about the best way to reconnect/splice? Twist them together and tape it up? There's got to be a more
elegant solution than that. What is it and should I bother?

 

[Parker]

I'm finding some good info on the "when good dropouts go bad" thread in EV basics.
My case is not as severe as others I think. I was just stopped and starting to move and the wires
slowly twisted till something broke. The motor would jerk around but not turn some
when the throttle was applied. That's how I noticed and I turned it off after that.

 

[Parker]

Here's the culprit. I can't find wire strippers so I guess that's it for tonight.

 

[Parker]

One other thing. The bearing in in the cover on this motor. So I didn't have to worry about getting it off
once I got the cover off.

 

[lazarus2405]

Now, in addition to the severed hall there are nicks
in the insulation of the other wires. Any recommendation for those.

Carefully inspect them. Are there any copper strands cut, or is it just insulation? And what size wire is it?

If you find any cut strands, replace the wires. If you think you'll want to run more power later, replace the wires, to 12 or 10awg (10awg is a really really tight fit out of an x5. It might not even fit out of a 400).

You can buy heatshrink tubing at RadioShack or Harbor Freight or wherever. That's the "elegant" solution. Though, sealing rubber splice tape works well (the sort you stretch over itself and it bonds together, not vynal adhesive electrical tape).

 

[Parker]

So a got the wire striped and soldered and heat shrink tube on it. None of the other wires had severed metal. I covered the exposed nicks with electrical tape. It's a very tight fit in the notch on the axle with that tape and tubbing on there. Too tight in fact because as I put the cover back on it sliced through one on the wires and cut it some. I initially forgot the whitish plastic bushing too. I was desperate to see if it work though so I just taped over the damage for now. It didn't work.
When I hit the power it moves a little and stops. Looks like it's being held in place by opposing forces locking in one spot. If I turn the peddles and then hit the throttle. I will work for 5 or 6 turns and stop. I suspect I did not reassemble it correctly. As I turn the wheel there is more resistance and it feels bumpy.

 

[kbarrett]

Check if your hall sensors are still in place and intact.

They may have been yanked before the wires parted.

 

[Parker]

I'll check. I'm thinking they are though.

Maybe I should shorten everything so I won't have that bulge going through
the axle nut. I wonder what that rope and white stuff is.

 

[fechter]

If the hall signal wire made contact with another wire, there's a good chance the sensor blew.

You can power the red and black wires with a 9v battery to test or use the controller to power them.

 

[diver]

If i can change the hall sensors then Im sure anybody can and Im a real newbie..lol. Its really very simple.I pulled the motor out of the hub . In my case i removed the sensors from the hub then epoxied the new sensors in, I replaced all three lol. i then solder the wires to the sensors taking car that i put wires in the same order with print side of sensor facing out. after repair i then checked sensors and one of the new ones i replaced was bad ( maybe to much heat as i was careful about that to, glad i bought extras. ) I replaced that one and was on my way.
Also i use two tq arms, with my luck you never know

 

[Parker]

I took the cover off then took the freewheel off using a small screwdriver to turn/unscrew the threaded
tube thing holding it on. I took off the other cover and got the motor/stator out by pushing down on the
wheel to pop it out. A gear puller is not a necessity . By visual inspection one of the hall sensors is blown.
Fechter I was not totally clear on how I would test the sensors with the 9v/know the result of test.
It seems clear that one is bad. I can see the numbers on the other two sensors and the middle one is
just black and a little sunken.

Diver thanks for the encouragement. I certainly need it.

I'll post pictures. One pic has the damage I did putting the cover back on.
I wonder what I should do about that. And what are all those little pieces of rope anyway?

 

[TylerDurden]

The rope stuff is likely braided fiberglass (or kevlar) jacket. It is heat protection for the wires.

 

[Parker]

I've been making some progress on this repair thank to patient help from Fechter and others.
I seem to find my questions already answered in another thread after I already asked and gotten
an answer. Progress on the hall effect sensor situation is on this thread.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4626&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

I have to deal with a damaged phase wire too now. After I made my first repair attempt and because of the thickness of my electrical tape repair I sheared the a yellow phase wire more than halfway through. I think I should just shorten everything.
my question is - If I do this and take off the white goopy stuff and the nylon sleeves to re connect/resolder the wires to where they go, what do I use to replace the white goopy stuff?. If I damage one of the nylon sleeves I would need to replace that too. Do I really need these things(I think yes) and where would i get them?

 

[TylerDurden]

If I damage one of the nylon sleeves I would need to replace that too. Do I really need these things(I think yes) and where would i get them?

They may be fiberglass... If I'm in a hurry, I rip it outta my coffeemaker and buy another at goodwill. You can also find it at speed-shops.

I got no clue on the goop.

 

[geoff57]

If I damage one of the nylon sleeves I would need to replace that too. Do I really need these things(I think yes) and where would i get them?

They may be fiberglass... If I'm in a hurry, I rip it outta my coffeemaker and buy another at goodwill. You can also find it at speed-shops.

I got no clue on the goop.

hi all
an alternative to the fiberglass sleave if it is is providing heat protection then use heat shrink tubing pick one that has a shrunk size of the wire not one that just fits over, remember heat shrink is designed to be put over wire and insulation then have a hot air gun directed at it at over 100 degrees c and survive so should protect the wires you need to cover.

 

[Parker]

Thanks TD I've got a couple random coffeemakers around here and breaking open my little coffee maker sounds more
interesting than going and buying heat shrink tubing. I see on Knuckles hall sensor/wire harness thread there is no goop.
So I'm going to pick off the mystery crystalyte goop.

 

[kbarrett]

It's probably just hot glue.

 

[Deepkimchi]

You would think the industry would design a little plug that would pull out if the motor would start turning. Doesn't seem like it would be hard to do.

Orient the thing in direction of rotation and fix the other end of the plug to the stay..

DK