So I bought a Ping 48v 10ah battery and the BMS was defective. I was sent a new one at no charge but now I have to solder 3 thick wires to it and I've never soldered anything. I tried it but couldn't get the solder to stick the the circuit board. Any tips, pointers, or anyone in South Jersey who wants a free lunch for helping me do it?
Soldering Ping BMS
- Thread starter DCDan
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dnmun
1 PW
you cannot use the high temp lead free solder. use 60/40 and big wires take a lot of heat to reach the melting point of the solder.
you should have at least 30W for 12-10 AWG wire, put the soldering iron on the wire, not the pcb, heat it until the solder melts into the wire and flows easily through the wire down to the pcb, remove heat immediately when the solder flows onto the trace on the pcb, but not before it actually wets the trace totally, not balled up.
practice on other stuff first.
what was wrong with the first BMS? did you create a thread for it then?
you should have at least 30W for 12-10 AWG wire, put the soldering iron on the wire, not the pcb, heat it until the solder melts into the wire and flows easily through the wire down to the pcb, remove heat immediately when the solder flows onto the trace on the pcb, but not before it actually wets the trace totally, not balled up.
practice on other stuff first.
what was wrong with the first BMS? did you create a thread for it then?
Well that's the problem then. 15w soldering iron and the wrong solder. When I first got the battery, I plugged in the BMS and started charging the battery. The LED indicator lights never lit up. I emailed Ping and after measuring the voltages from the charger, discharge wires, and charge wires, he determined that the BMS was defective. I'm not sure what the actual problem is, and I never made a thread about it.
dnmun
1 PW
the problem with the first one may have been a bad connection in the sense wire plug if none of the leds came on. he ships them unplugged now. might never had seated properly in that middle coupling.
yep, need bigger soldering iron and real tin lead solder. but you can practice soldering wires together first to get feel for how the solder flows, so you know when hot is really hot enuff, because with learning to solder, the trick is to learn how to get it hot enuff, fast enuff, and get the iron off the joint fast enuff without pulling the wires apart again. the pcb traces will burn up and pull off if it gets so hot the pcb melts underneath it.
the solder has to flow onto the pad, but not for long, but don't stop and leave a round ball of solder perched on top of the pad. that you can practice first.
yep, need bigger soldering iron and real tin lead solder. but you can practice soldering wires together first to get feel for how the solder flows, so you know when hot is really hot enuff, because with learning to solder, the trick is to learn how to get it hot enuff, fast enuff, and get the iron off the joint fast enuff without pulling the wires apart again. the pcb traces will burn up and pull off if it gets so hot the pcb melts underneath it.
the solder has to flow onto the pad, but not for long, but don't stop and leave a round ball of solder perched on top of the pad. that you can practice first.
dogman dan
1 PW
I had a lot of problems soldering with cheap irons that clearly didn't put out the 30 watts they claim to.
Soldering is easy with the iron I use now, an iron designed for stain glass window making. That thing melts solder fast!
Soldering is easy with the iron I use now, an iron designed for stain glass window making. That thing melts solder fast!
Jason27
10 kW
Send the battery back to Mr ping and make him solder it.
cruiserbikeman
10 W
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2012
- Messages
- 82
Yesterday evening I soldered the new BMS board I received from Ping. Desoldering the small blue recharger wire was easy but the other two bigger wires were impossible. I cut those two off with a wire cutter. I stripped all 3 wires and soldered them to the new board. I bought a Helping Hands with Magnifying Glass(I wouldn't have been able to hold the wire to the pcb contact without this valuable tool). I used 63/37 rosin core solder with a Weller 35 watt Professional Soldering Iron. The solder melted-flowed easily and dried instantly. The 63/37 rosin core solder is the one you should be using instead of the 60/40 solder. The new BMS is recharging well (all of the red lights lit up). The hub motor and ampedbike controller is functioning so far. However, I want to take the bike for a ride this evening before I call the soldering work a success.
dnmun
1 PW
yep 63/37 is even better if you can find it. i bot two 1lb spools of solder on ebay for $15 and one was 60/40 and the other was the 63/37. they were different thickness too. both are worth their weight in gold, imo, since they are making lead solder illegal.
i will pay shipping if you can send me the dead BMS to analyze. i have several dead ones already which i use to provide parts for people with problems. but mainly to wire up to understand what kinda problems the signalab is having. you can ask li ping and he will ok it.
i will pay shipping if you can send me the dead BMS to analyze. i have several dead ones already which i use to provide parts for people with problems. but mainly to wire up to understand what kinda problems the signalab is having. you can ask li ping and he will ok it.
cruiserbikeman
10 W
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2012
- Messages
- 82
dnmun said:
I would send you the dead BMS but Ping has asked me to ship it back to him.
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