[SOLVED] Current drop ?

d8veh said:
If all else fails, it's fairly easy to switch to an external controller. When I did it, the controller was blown, so I unsoldered the hall connector from it and soldered it on to the new one, otherwise you have to solder another one onto the motor hall wires, which can be done, but isn't quite as easy because of the shorter wires. You just take out the controller and it leaves the three phase wires with spade connectors and the halls with the block connector. Run your controller wires through and connect them in the compartment.

I see, and I know of the possibility for future mods.

But the fact is I paid a lot of money for this wheel, including the controller, I've only been running it for about a week, and the problem was there from the first moment. So I don't think it's fair if I have to invest time and money to get it working like it should have out of the box.


Dogman Dan, the motor gets warm-ish, the internals I can't say. But my previous test of parking the bike outside for 5 hours after using 2Ah, then resuming. Result: Motor pulled exactly 18A. So I'd say temperature is out of the question.
 
Unfortunately it's not a fair world. This is one of the risks of buying stuff from China. You can expect to have to sort out any problems yourself. Did you try the Golden Motor forum? There's much more specific knowledge there.
 
d8veh said:
Unfortunately it's not a fair world. This is one of the risks of buying stuff from China. You can expect to have to sort out any problems yourself. Did you try the Golden Motor forum? There's much more specific knowledge there.

Fair point. I haven't completely given up on either of them yet, I still have some patience left. :)

Thanks a lot for your (you and the others who replied) help, I will try my symptoms in GM's forum.
 
i was under the impression the battery is made up of used laptop cells. is this not the case? there was no BMS and no knowledge of how many times the cells had been over discharged and converted into resistors. i doubt if it is a problem with the kit if the kit is new.
 
dnmun said:
i was under the impression the battery is made up of used laptop cells. is this not the case? there was no BMS and no knowledge of how many times the cells had been over discharged and converted into resistors. i doubt if it is a problem with the kit if the kit is new.
Perhaps a re-read of the first post in the thread, and other posts in it, might show you information you seem to have missed? ;)
 
amberwolf said:
dnmun said:
i was under the impression the battery is made up of used laptop cells. is this not the case? there was no BMS and no knowledge of how many times the cells had been over discharged and converted into resistors. i doubt if it is a problem with the kit if the kit is new.
Perhaps a re-read of the first post in the thread, and other posts in it, might show you information you seem to have missed? ;)

Yes, I think you have the wrong thread good Sir 'dnmun'. All my parts are brand new, about 2 weeks old now. And for batteries, I've also tested new, known good 200amp burst rate lipo's. But as this is my first e-bike, I am full of questions as you can see.
 
SOLVED

I put a gopro in front of my watt meter and took a long ride. And realized something, the amps were consistent down to two decimals for about 10-15 minutes of riding. Then it started tapering.

So I followed up on another hunch, that I in fact have a MP4, not MP3. So I downloaded the software for MP4, and guess what: The default settings for 48V battery has a 'current reducing' feature starting at 44V. And also, my amperage tapering starts when watt meter shows exactly 44v (under load).

So there we have it. My huge crisis (pulled most of my hair out and bothered a lot of chinese people, started paypal dispute etc) was in fact a bonus.

Thanks to all who replied here!
 
markz said:
nutspecial said:
Interesting. Glad you figured it out!

Why would they do that and not clearly document it?

Made in China!

Fair enough, but my question is why would they do that, and have zero mention of it when I contact tech support like 8 times, both Golden Motor (the factory) and BMSbattery (the seller)? Just quickly blaming battery problems and start ignoring me.

At least I know what to buy when I'm building a new bike for the wife. And where NOT to buy it, BMSbattery.com!
 
You should have bought from GoldenMotor.CA not GoldenMotor.COM
but hey live and learn.

Why did they do that to you? because they dont care about customer service. Never did. Unless you are buying quantity from them.

GoldenMotor.CA cares about customer service. Just not the COM one. I bet Gary Salo would have helped you out.

icecube57's podcast with Gary Salo from GoldenMotor.CA
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=72352&hilit=podcast
Gary Salo GoldenMotor.CA interview https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beo6kh1u1OI
 
I bought from BMSBattery, not golden motor. So to be fair, they didn't have to help me. But one would still think they'd want their products to work and get a good reputation...
 
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