(Solved) Need help identifying motor power by visual comparison

hexadrome

10 mW
Joined
Jan 8, 2023
Messages
24
Hey guys,
I got these motors:
IMG_20230113_012908.jpg
The left one is 48V 500W geared, the right one is an unlabelled direct drive I've got no specs on.
I ran it at 36V in a 26" wheel for a top speed of 34km/h (21mph) so it ran at 273rpm.
I'm unsure if there is any correlation between rpm and wattage. Also the stator sizes are different, so that's throwing me off even more.
IMG_20230113_013001.jpg
Is anyone able to tell from experience? Thanks in advance.
 
Your post begs the question

"Is Watts a useful specification / data point for a motor's capabilities? "

The answer is of course a bit involved, but mostly falls toward negative.

For a given use case and terrain conditions, the speed and torque actually delivered at each RPM point WITHOUT OVERHEATING is what really needs deriving from the Grin simulator

https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

and/or IRL testing.

https://ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html
 
john61ct said:
For a given use case and terrain conditions, the speed and torque actually delivered at each RPM point WITHOUT OVERHEATING is what really needs deriving from the Grin simulator

I'll try to be more precise with my wording:
I want to approximate the expectations I should have towards the power range of the DD motor based on the rough dimensions of its hub shell and I have a geared motor with known specs for a visual comparison.
The DD shell is about 67mm/2.6" wide and 125mm/4.9" in diameter.
The motor ran under the aforementioned conditions using this controller:
IMG_20230113_044227.jpg
I didn't have a way of measuring amp draw when I ran it. It ran motor-only on flat ground in what felt to be constant overheating mode. It growled electrically from launch to about 15km/h (9mph) and again at 29-31km/h (18-19mph). It ran quietly at the speeds inbetween. I'm unsure what that means.
Launch torque was so bad I always pushed it off the ground with my leg to help.

I'm having trouble translating the data I have to the Grin simulator custom controller preset because the label is all the documentation I got. I tried modelling using the Baserunner_z9 preset as the closest equivalent. However, I can't read chinese so I don't know if the amp rating is peak or continuous. I assumed a continuous rating on the XINAOMA to proceed. I started to image search for the preset DD motors to find a visually comparable one and quickly ran into trouble. I haven't been able to find one that looks as stout and wide as this one and I got mislead by wheel sizes on images. I was hoping someone owned a similar sized geared motor (it's a Bafang G040 if that helps) and also DDs and could give me a hint on the wattage rating of the motor since that's what I used previously to look up a close enough motor preset for simulation.

Ultimately I'd like to run the DD motor efficiently. I hope I explained my request in a comprehensible manner.
 
The power can be guesstimated (with low certainty when comparing different motors) that
-the stator width is roughly proportional to the power - twice as wide, twice as powerful.
-The power is proportional to airgap diameter squared. Twice the diameter, 4x the power.

But this is based on a lot of assumptions to be true so in reality i’d just assume something like 1kW per kilo in a motor like that, then test with a slightly oversized controller, carefully checking the heating.
 
larsb said:
the stator width is roughly proportional to the power - twice as wide, twice as powerful.
-The power is proportional to airgap diameter squared. Twice the diameter, 4x the power.
I take that to mean that there is no direct correlation between physical motor size and power. The stator width dictates the maximum amount of power I can dump into it without it overheating. How fast it'll run at that V&A level depends on the windings, so the only way to know for sure is opening the shell and counting.

Awww. I was really hoping I'd be able to avoid that since I don't want to invest in proper tooling and I'm not sure if I can put it back together again. On the other hand, I may have damaged the motor anyway the way I ran it.

It had two thermal shutdowns already. Once after riding for an hour at top speed on flat ground and the other time I attempted a long gradient I knew it couldn't possibly handle. The first time, I was surprised it ran fine afterwards after cooling down.
I don't remember the exact gradient, something around 6% probably. It ran about 2.5km before finally overheating and shutting down. That time, it took a lot longer for the motor to cool, probably around 2 hours.
It ran again afterwards but overheated really easily on any gradients.

I understand now that it's either opening the shell beforehand to count the windings or carefully monitoring temperature.

I was able to touch and keep my hand on the shell both times without burning myself. The first time it felt just unpleasantly hot, the second time I only could keep my hand on the shell for 20 seconds or so until it became too painful. I'm not sure what that would translate to in terms of winding temperature. I used it for daily transport, my usual riding distances were around 10km on flat ground. It seemed to not overheat then.

To monitor the temperature more accurately during use a sensor needs to be installed.
I guess it may be possible to cram a sensor into the motor cable slot, but the axle is so far from the windings that it wouldn't be very accurate. The values would only be meaningful if someone had the same motor and could tell me the correlation between axle and winding temperature.

For reliable commuting use, practical experimentation did work for me. I felt I would've not been able to disassemble the motor damage-free with basic tools but couldn't invest in proper tooling at the time. I don't depend on it for commuting anymore so I'll hammer it apart and post some pictures of the internal damages.
Thanks for clearing up my misconceptions. I realized now there is no way of trying to simulate for a motor with unknown characteristics based on its visual size.

That also means I do need to buy tooling for my build.
 
If you don’t have temp sensor then it is not the motor that is shutting down your system, it’s the controller or bms overheating. Bms inside a padded battery pack or a controller that isn’t getting airflow are classic issues that are easy to fix.

You don’t need a lot of tooling to open a motor, a three jaw puller or just some pry bars will do the trick. Just be careful that there isn’t force applied on the wires or winding when opening. When putting together the parts will want to slam together so you’ll need to back it in the same way you pulled them apart.
 
hexadrome said:
I take that to mean that there is no direct correlation between physical motor size and power.

Apples and oranges between the geared and direct drive, but if they were 2 direct drives of the similar dimensions, then weight may be a better estimate on which can take more power/current. Wider stator or more copper, or both can increase the power capability, and both affect the motor weight.
 
larsb said:
Bms inside a padded battery pack or a controller that isn’t getting airflow are classic issues that are easy to fix.

That was the most probable cause. The controller is installed in the frame bag so there's no air circulation. I will mount components needing cooling openly instead to be sure. Thanks for the advice!

E-HP said:
Apples and oranges between the geared and direct drive

Yeah, I wasn't sure about that either.
 
Back
Top