mccloed
100 W
The motor touches the board if I turn to sharp, but I really don't notice it.
Stary Wanna-Be Using Pediglides Single Hub Motor
- Thread starter mccloed
- Start date
mccloed
100 W
This board with me on it (175 lbs) can go almost 30mph. I can get up small hills also. I'm running 6 cells right now but would suggest 8 cells, if you can.
JdogAwesome
10 mW
I just ordered most of the parts I need for my Eboard and I was wondering how you wired your BMS? On the eBay listing for that BMS it shows different wiring then what you did, I think. If you could send me a diagram or just kinda explain it that would be great! Also are you using a switch to turn your board on and off if so what kind of switch are you using and could you send me a link for it because I'm having some trouble finding high enough amperage switches. Thanks!
JdogAwesome
10 mW
_eXo_ said:
That's what I was thinking except it's $60 and I'm on a hella tight budget.
JdogAwesome
10 mW
And right now im planning on buying the 200A Circuit Breaker on Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/390474856510) and also a 6S to 2 3S JST-XH connector for charging the batterys together(http://www.ebay.com/itm/351260057560) can I charge the battery's through that lead at under 1.5A?
mccloed
100 W
JdogAwesome said:
I believe all you need to do is eliminate the use of "P-". This is pretty much how I wired mine:
Looking at it now, I think I wired it incorrect. I think this is how it should be wired:
So far nothing has gotten hot or burned up.
The power switch is the one that came on the FVT 120a ESC
JdogAwesome
10 mW
Ahh ok thanks for the diagram. So the main battery leads are used to charge the battery then the small wires that go to each cell are to balance it correct? Also how did you separate your cells? Im using two fo these batteries, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58956__Turnigy_5000mAh_3S_30C_Lipo_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html and if you have any info on how to properly separate them so I can make it flatter it would be greatly appreciated.
mccloed
100 W
Correct. The main battery leads are used to charge the battery then the small wires that go to each cell are to balance it. Again, I am not an expert on this but it seems to work so far.
Not sure on those batteries. They probably have adhesive or double sided tape holding them together. I just used these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
Then I soldered the tabs in series and folded the tabs over the solder, in most cases. These are not easy to solder. I sanded the tabs slightly then applied solder paste then solder.
Not sure on those batteries. They probably have adhesive or double sided tape holding them together. I just used these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18560__Turnigy_5000mAh_1S_20C_Lipoly_Single_Cell_.html
Then I soldered the tabs in series and folded the tabs over the solder, in most cases. These are not easy to solder. I sanded the tabs slightly then applied solder paste then solder.
JdogAwesome
10 mW
mccloed said:
Ahh well shit. I already ordered those batteries
and I dont want to go through the hassle of taking them apart, maybe next time! Anyways can I use this http://www.ebay.com/itm/351260057560?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT to connect the 2 3S batteries and just charge them though this with a 6S Lipo charger? Thanks for your help and the quick replies!
mccloed
100 W
I know I've posted this example once before but I can't seem to find it. So here are two examples of a single 6s balance charge port using the adapter you listed. Basically you wan't to remove the positive wire from the adapter for which ever battery is feeding the negative to the esc. This is if you leave the batteries plugged in series. See diagram below:
If you take the batteries out or do not have them connected in series then you will just use the adapter as intended.
You can also look at this example from another site: http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123350
If you take the batteries out or do not have them connected in series then you will just use the adapter as intended.
You can also look at this example from another site: http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123350
JdogAwesome
10 mW
Ahh ok thanks but my adapter thing has the two red and black wires in the middle spliced together, does that change anything or would I still just cut that far red wire to charge them together which is what I plan on doing. So pretty much I just wanna make it so I dont have to take the batteries out ever or if I dont have to and I want to be able to charge the batteries together from a 6S JST plug. My batteries are going to be in series to get a total of 22.2V. Thanks for everyones help so far!
EDIT: forgot I posted this, anyways I figured this out. Learned about true positive and true negative so now it makes a lot more sense. To anyone wondering you just use the adapter with the spliced middle wire and plug that into your charger.
EDIT: forgot I posted this, anyways I figured this out. Learned about true positive and true negative so now it makes a lot more sense. To anyone wondering you just use the adapter with the spliced middle wire and plug that into your charger.
Paul_A said:
i also run a single hub setup. I've had it at 7s lithium ion with 30A limit on the VESC - that's less than 900w and it was enough to accelerate from dead stop. Currently I'm running 8s/60A lipo and it is much stronger (>1800w) and easily accelerates from dead stop. only problem I notice with single hub motor that is too powerful is the uneven acceleration - it sorta pushes you to one side of the board...
mccloed
100 W
I've never felt that the single hub pushes to one side. Then again I'm running 6s. Depending on your ESC you can start from a dead stop. The VESC, obviously, is going to be your best bet for this with out the use of hall sensors, but I would still recommend pushing off. Sensors in the motor would ultimately be the way to go. I still haven't found any ESC's above 6s that can be sensored besides the VESC. Supposedly diyelectricskateboards.com had a 12s sensored ESC, but I have not found any posts on it.
