Sturmey Archer IGH with cassette and mid drives

amberwolf said:
All IGHs require some form of torque transfer device from it's axle to the frame, exactly like a hubmotor, for the same reason.

Some use just a tabbed washer; some use a reaction bar that clamps to the frame, etc. All should come with the device that manufacturer designed it for, but you can always choose to make your own "better" one for your particular application.

Thanks AmberWolf for sharing :) I found that helpful to know and others in the future may do also.
 
qwerkus said:
Little Voice said:
For a mid drive, I find 5 to be a sweet spot. But the only hub available is the SA 5speed which has reliability issues.

Coming into this thread kind of late and sideways. I've got a BBS02 bike from Biktrix with the 5speed SA hub and I've been having some issues with it slipping, etc.

Also, probably will start a new thread on this topic, but wondering if anybody in this thread has any insight into the best controller programming configurations for using an IGH with the BBS02. Trying to make sure that my problems aren't related to the stock motor programming.
 
In the UK I built my own mid-drive bike with an old 2009 ally MTB 26” wheel frame and BBSHD with 52V 21Ah battery, but wanted better hill-climbing and occasional higher top speed, so I got a SA CS-RK3 and added a steel 7-speed 42T-14T cassette on a self-build wheel with 36x13G spokes. I have a single front Lekkie 42T.
So I have 3:1 max and 1:1 min ratios with the chain, plus 0.75/1.0/1.33 using the IGH.

So far so good, after 1 year of Weekend use and sympathetic riding, this setup has amazing hill-climbing ability, and can touch 40mph on a long (2 mile) slight downhill (F42T/R(11T) although I am reluctant to give the 14T sprocket the “full beans” of the BBSHD, which I have dialled back to 25A. For me it’s enough, and the F42T/R(56T) gives unrivalled climbing ability on short but very steep ascents. (Figures in brackets equivalent teeth using the SA hub ratios).

The secret is to program the BBSHD to be progressive with both PA and especially throttle assist levels, and not to be too agressive with the power delivery, otherwise, you’re going to break stuff or wear it out quickly. The other thing is to keep the drive meticulously clean, which means cleaning/relubing after every EVERY ride, especially in the shitty wet muddy Winters we typically get here in the UK. That sucks, because it’s the last thing you want to do when you get home from a ride & it’s dark and cold. :(

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