captnshrms
1 mW
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 11
Cool, I look forward to seeing them.fechter said:
Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike
- Thread starter Allex
- Start date
3DTOPO said:Offroader said:
Search the thread for Shunt. Search = Powerful
It sounds like it has been done, but questions abound if the BMS is up to it.
I have been following this thread for quite a while, nobody has ever done a shunt mod. Someone from Russia took some pictures with the controller cleaned and de-potted it, but I have never seen anyone point out where the shunt is exactly or actually say they did a shunt mod.
Maybe I missed something but I can't find anything.
BMS is no big deal because it can be replaced and I believe the current limit is the external 100 amp circuit breaker?? I'm not sure if the BMS has a 100 amp current limit on it but wouldn't this also be easily modded because it would probably have a shunt also?
Flopped my Sur-ron over the other day and broke the brake lever off for the rear brake. Well contacted Luna to get a new lever, well they don't sell the lever as it has a pressed in pin at the pivot (also took it to a bike shop to fix it, a no go) so you need to buy a complete unit, a master to caliper with the brake line & fluid installed, ready to go. Problem 1#, Luna will only sell you both front & rear brake sets complete at $176.00 and will not separate the two, leaving you with a set that you don't need and this is to replace a lever that should not cost more than $15.00, has anyone run into this? Problem 2# In order to replace the rear brake set complete you need to remove the motor ( No FU*%#NG way), well back to the bike shop and had them just remove the master and bleed the system, and mind you this is just for a broken lever that I should have been able to replace myself for not much more then about fifteen bucks, has anyone had this experience? Call me FRUSTRATED !!
crazy_dave
10 mW
^^^This^^^ and you could save the labor cost by getting a lager plastic or glass syringe and some proper fitting tube and back bleed (from the caliper to the master cylinder) the lines. Much easier to get the air out.
If you needed a 2nd charger to charge sometimes while at work, what would be the best cost effective way to go about this? Just looking for some thoughts on what you guys would do for a 2nd charger,
Or would you just buy a 2nd sur-ron charger. I'm kind of leaning towards not doing that because I will probably eventually upgrade the battery down the road.
Thanks
Or would you just buy a 2nd sur-ron charger. I'm kind of leaning towards not doing that because I will probably eventually upgrade the battery down the road.
Thanks
derb
10 mW
http://www.eastgem.net/on-board-charger.html
Does a charger exist that can run directly off my van's 12v system? It seems using an inverter and then the stock charger is wasting a bunch of electricity (turned to heat) going from DC to AC and then back. I'm envisioning something that can be clipped to the battery terminals and plugged into the Sur-ron's battery.
My van has 2 batteries and will be hooked up to 2 or 3 100w solar panels at the time.
My van has 2 batteries and will be hooked up to 2 or 3 100w solar panels at the time.
Lelandjt said:
This one would be pretty close:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/900W-DC-DC...h=item43f453f9d6:g:2HcAAOSwkO5bbApH:rk:6:pf:0
There are others out there with similar features. Keep in mind the input is limited to 20A regardless of voltage, so you could only expect about 240W with a 12v supply.
A big inverter and the stock charger are not a bad way to go. The losses would more than the single stage dc-dc converter shown but not terrible.
I guess the important question is how much loss is there (as heat?) running an inverter and the stock charger. That's clearly the simple way to do it but I figured efficiency mattered when I've only got a couple solar panels or running my van's engine to make the electricity.fechter said:
SlowCo
1 MW
Lelandjt said:
Wouldn't a small generator and the original charger be more efficient then running your van's engine to charge the 12V batteries to then use an inverter or voltage booster to charge your Sur Ron bike's battery? And the small generator could be used for different things in the van/camping and around the house (back up) as well.
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,903
Rabid said:
contact Aebikes, they had some nice stainless bash plates made for surron with reinforcement in critical areas.. aebikes.com.au
What I plan to do with a 2nd charger since I will rarely use it, is use some power supplies I have at my home already.
I'll use the programmable Eaton APR48-3G which I have sitting around unused, which can be adjusted for both current and voltage as it is a CC power supply.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66169
And I will use a Dell 12 volt server power supply (rated up to like 40 amps) I also have laying around and put it in series with with the Eaton APR48-3G.
So it will be 12 volt + 55 volt = 67 volt. I'll limit current and adjust voltage with the APR48-3G.
If anyone sees any issues with doing this please let me know. Thank you
I'll use the programmable Eaton APR48-3G which I have sitting around unused, which can be adjusted for both current and voltage as it is a CC power supply.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66169
And I will use a Dell 12 volt server power supply (rated up to like 40 amps) I also have laying around and put it in series with with the Eaton APR48-3G.
So it will be 12 volt + 55 volt = 67 volt. I'll limit current and adjust voltage with the APR48-3G.
If anyone sees any issues with doing this please let me know. Thank you
Based on the discussion here I bought two Sur Ron bikes! One Green with standard controller and one grey with the X controller. I figure I’d need a spare because friends and family need to experience this too. It’s a different kind of riding. I’ve loved my mountain bike and my dirtbike equally. Just can’t ride the dirtbike anywhere around civilization it seems.
Already started on the upgrades.
Just ordered a Fox 40 fork and a Fox DHX2 shock.
Installed a Diety 80mm rise bar and Diety Intake stem.
Installed a 26” wheel on one bike. Its a Chris King hub Laced to a Mavic 321 rim with 14/17 gauge DT Revolution spokes and alloy nipples. I’m testing the limits of the spokes for sure. The hub and rim should hold up with all the compliance of the spokes. I’ve been a wheel builder for quite a while but this is new territory. The wheel made a huge difference in weight. The front end is way lighter. However, the added height makes steering a bit slow for tight trails. Probably need more preload on the rear to push the bike forward.
Already started on the upgrades.
Just ordered a Fox 40 fork and a Fox DHX2 shock.
Installed a Diety 80mm rise bar and Diety Intake stem.
Installed a 26” wheel on one bike. Its a Chris King hub Laced to a Mavic 321 rim with 14/17 gauge DT Revolution spokes and alloy nipples. I’m testing the limits of the spokes for sure. The hub and rim should hold up with all the compliance of the spokes. I’ve been a wheel builder for quite a while but this is new territory. The wheel made a huge difference in weight. The front end is way lighter. However, the added height makes steering a bit slow for tight trails. Probably need more preload on the rear to push the bike forward.
Should have used a 24" on the front since the rear suspension is not adjustable to raise the rear.
What 26" tire and size are you using?
I like how you used the thin spokes as 12 gauge is way too thick and unnecesary for the front. I use 14/15 gauge for the front of my other ebike for years without a single issue or loose spokes. 17 gauge is kind if thin but will probably work.
Since you have both versions of the bike are there any noticable differences in power between the versions?
What 26" tire and size are you using?
I like how you used the thin spokes as 12 gauge is way too thick and unnecesary for the front. I use 14/15 gauge for the front of my other ebike for years without a single issue or loose spokes. 17 gauge is kind if thin but will probably work.
Since you have both versions of the bike are there any noticable differences in power between the versions?
Offroader said:
Yeah, the 17 gauge spokes are just what I have on hand. Also the case with the rim. Being a very heavy DH rim allows me to get away with such thin spokes on a bicycle. A point load deflection is spread over more spokes. This wheel is not optimal for the Sur Ron. I want to understand how changes in wheel size affect the handling of this bike. A change like this on my mountain bike or dirtbike would render them unreadable. The Sur Ron is still fun with this circus hoop on there. However, the steering is now too slow.
I was looking at building new wheels soon. I’d like to save some unsprung weight by useing 24” bicycle rims and trials tires. Im concerned with the durability being too low. Rider skill can be a major factor here too. Or, stick with proven motorcycle hoops and rubber. Just build ‘em right. Proper gauge, tension,...
The tire is a Maxxis Minion DHR 2.8 with all the bells and whistles. Set up with a Stan’s tubeless kit. Great mountain bike tire (I usually run a DHF up front). Light, tough, super grip on most everything. Hell, I race endurance races with these and take em on lift access trails.
Differences...
I know I like the RST fork way more then the DNM 8. The DNM will twist in the crowns upon moderate torque. This has happened when pulling the bike around a very tight switchback. I kicked the bike up on the rear wheel, pivoted, then lowered the front wheel with some sideways momentum. The legs will stay in this twisted state until I loosen everthing up and realign the whole thing. I can’t torque the hardware enough to keep this twisting from happening. I’m up to 10 Nm on those silly little bolts. This kind of tension shouldn’t be nessesary. The DNM also feels heavy and dead. I feel Its harder to loft.
I put a 60t on the X. So direct comparison is tough. I’ll probably put 55t on both as that seems like a good balance. Just waiting on them to be available again.
With a 26" front wheel run the fork as low as you can. Also, get a 500lb spring (Rockshox Vivid spring for the stock shock). If you're over 200lbs get a 550. I have one to sell since I settled on the 500.Jasonvh said:
Move the rear axle as far back as the brake carrier allows and put the pegs in the rear position.
Jasonvh said:
It will be great to have some side-by-side comparisons. There seems to still be quite a bit of confusion about the exact differences.
