Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

aspencreek said:
Here's a quick video of what's going on. Sorry for the dimly lit garage. Battery fully charged but nothing happens when I turn on the key - no display, no lights, no throttle. The power did come on earlier, then just suddenly died and no I get nothing.

I would suggest letting the pack charge until its at 100%. I assume it has sat in the garage all winter. When was the last time you took it for a ride?

I am guessing the battery is not really at 96% and must be essentially dead. Maybe it got "confused" from sitting months without use?
 
It sort of looks like the BMS tripped. Try holding down the button on the battery display while turning the key on.
 
3DTOPO said:
aspencreek said:
Here's a quick video of what's going on. Sorry for the dimly lit garage. Battery fully charged but nothing happens when I turn on the key - no display, no lights, no throttle. The power did come on earlier, then just suddenly died and no I get nothing.

I would suggest letting the pack charge until its at 100%. I assume it has sat in the garage all winter. When was the last time you took it for a ride?

I am guessing the battery is not really at 96% and must be essentially dead. Maybe it got "confused" from sitting months without use?

Last time I took it for a ride was March 22 and I did about 16 miles on the first/only ride. Since then it's been so rainy it has sat in the garage. Two days ago I had it on for a couple minutes running it around the driveway testing suspension clicks. Then today it was on for maybe 30 seconds then died. I'll pull out the battery and let it charge some more.
 
aspencreek said:
Last time I took it for a ride was March 22 and I did about 16 miles on the first/only ride. Since then it's been so rainy it has sat in the garage. Two days ago I had it on for a couple minutes running it around the driveway testing suspension clicks. Then today it was on for maybe 30 seconds then died. I'll pull out the battery and let it charge some more.
Charging will be good. Hopefully that's all it needs.

I looked around for the BMS reset instructions but couldn't find it. I think it's buried in this topic somewhere. As I recall it's something like
1. turn off key
2. turn off main breaker
3. hold down button on battery meter while turning on key
4. turn off key
5. turn on main breaker and see if it works.


If the battery gets so low the BMS can't turn on to allow charge, there's a jump start procedure for the charger:
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/surron/71550-sur-ron-troubleshooting
 
wuhaichao443 said:
Share with you

Do you have a picture of the front of the bike with it installed. I do know lights make riding at night in the woods like almost riding in the day. The only issue is you will come up upon lots of spider webs at night and you will see them also as the lights reflect off of them.

file.php


file.php
 
That one looks nice and easy to mount. Where did you find it? I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197ZQLBA/

It is also very bright! It truly does consume 30W and probably puts out 3600 lm or so, as advertised.
 
You want craziness take a look at this, 6500 lumen light in a very tiny package, high quality also. $350 for this.

You can only use these lights if you ride in the woods at night because you would blind everyone on the street at night. I don't do much woods riding so I wouldn't need something so powerful and would want something like what is on the Sur-Ron already. The Sur-Ron light doesn't blind anyone any night.

MONTEER 6500 is the next generation professional lighting system, with an increase of up to 6,500 lumens with its five CREE LED array.Connecting extreme performance to serious riders, this lumen monster is capable of illuminating everything on every mountain trail.The beyond-top level LED and optical lens are specially and carefully designed, to bring a beam pattern for Spot beam, Flood beam and Hybrid beam into the MONTEER 6500.To acquire the extreme performance, the heat sink, and hard anodized all aluminum housing have been redesigned, ensuring higher cooling performance to prevent a very hot body.

https://www.magicshine.com/product/monteer-6500-downhill-bike-front-light/

MONTEER-6500-3-1.jpg
 
Allex said:
Can now confirm that new controller have more power.
Old controller: 65A(sport) 20A(EP) max speed: ~71km/h
New: 75A(sport) 42A(EP) max speed: ~80km/h

It does storm that 30° hill in previous videos a lot easier. This is a perfect upgrade once they will be out for public!

Checked the new square wave controllers, and they deliver 75A as well. So the earlier batches seems to have lower settings.
This is why ppl comment about sine-wave controller being the same power as the square one.

Here is how you can install stock mudguard on the forks that does not have the mounting holes. DNM have two versions of the fork, a regular and one with mounting holes as a "road version"

Install the starnut from beneath
IMG_6355.jpg

Make hole in the centre of the mudguard
Find a wide washer and then you are ready!
IMG_6356.jpg
IMG_6358.jpg
 
Offroader said:
wuhaichao443 said:
Share with you

Do you have a picture of the front of the bike with it installed. I do know lights make riding at night in the woods like almost riding in the day. The only issue is you will come up upon lots of spider webs at night and you will see them also as the lights reflect off of them.

file.php


file.php
 
If you want to ride a bike in the open and shoot yourself very handsome :lol:
 

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Light bee origin conjecture, photographer from China: Yang lu
 

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Offroader said:
When I braked my bike today I thought I heard and felt a little play in the front brakes.

Looking more closely it seems there is play in the headset, it also makes a noise.

I guess Sur-Ron used the cheapest headset and it broke already?

The headset periodically needs to be tightened. I have over 1300 miles on mine now - no problems - and only takes a minute or two to tighten.

That said, Luna sells a sealed Cane Creek bearing set (on my upgrade list):

https://lunacycle.com/cane-creek-forty-sur-ron-headset-bearing/
 
Thanks, I thought I heard the sur-ron headset had issues and was breaking so I assumed it was broke over needing to be tightened.

What is special about the luna cycle headset? Isn't it just a standard 1.5" headset you can buy anywhere?
 
Offroader said:
Thanks, I thought I heard the sur-ron headset had issues and was breaking so I assumed it was broke over needing to be tightened.

Yeah, to tighten it, loosen all the bolts around the headset, then tighten down the center bolt until the play is gone. Don't over tighten it though.

Offroader said:
What is special about the luna cycle headset? Isn't it just a standard headset you can buy anywhere?

You have to get a tapered set. Hope makes a set that works, you need is top cup - ZS44/28.6 type 2 and bottom cup ZS55/40 type G.. along with the 1.5-1 1/8" reducer.

But the Cane Creek set has all the right sized parts as a kit.
 
I tightened the headset and still hear a crunching noise when I hold the front brakes and rock the bike forward and backwards.

It was tightened properly because It became difficult to turn the front wheel, then backed off just slightly.

I dont know if its the fork or headset. What do you think? Probably the cheap headset? Or did I break my fork already?

I kind of remember breaking a headset on another bike and the bearings were all twisted and I believe it had a similar crunching noise. Never had issues after I installed the cane creek 40.
 
Offroader said:
I tightened the headset and still hear a crunching noise when I hold the front brakes and rock the bike forward and backwards.

It was tightened properly because It became difficult to turn the front wheel, then backed off just slightly.

I dont know if its the fork or headset. What do you think? Probably the cheap headset? Or did I break my fork already?

Hmmm. Can you see any play in the headset? When mine has been loose, you can see the handlebars move a bit when hitting the front brakes hard at a mile or two an hour. Or holding the front breaks and attempt to push the bike forward.
 
Most disc brakes make some click sounds because the brake"pads" have some room to move.

Try pushing the brake lever as hard as you can... Move the bike and check if crunchy sounds are still there...

If yes...

Simply put your hand on the top of the headset, hold the front brake and try to push the bike forth /back

If you feel something moves in the headset it's toast or not tighten enough.

To check that...
Put your bike on a bike lift /stand to Lift front wheel...
Handlebar can move freely now...
Tighten the bolt for headset as long as the handlebar/fork can move absolutely free.

Report back =)
 
210cells is whats really fits inside with honeycomb layout and holders(for safety)
This will be a 16s13p so 45Ah instead of stock 32Ah with some good cells
 
For safety? It really is not much safer than gluing everything together or at least not worth the space.

Did you see how many you could fit without spacers?

What cells are you using sanyo 3500s? Are they still the best cells to use for larger packs?
 
I would argue about safety still(even if most of my packs are glued and I've built hundreds) but even if you glue them you dont gain any extra cell on the wide nor on the long side with this particular case, its like half of the cell on both directions so not really worth gluing anyway.
Sanyo is still one of the best when it comes to price/performance/weight ratio.
 
I heard a rumor yesterday that Luna is bringing out the upgrad2d 72v battery with new motor and new controller this summer. Anyone have specifics? Contemplating when to make a purchase and I might wait for summer.
 
i wonder what motor will be better. the stock motor is excellent for 10Kw+
and even if you have 72v ...you cant fit more cells inside. 25kw...funny yea....but what do you want to do with it? drag racing ok, offroad? no.

i think a better/bigger battery with ASI 4k is the best of both worlds.
 
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