Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

[Joachim]

Luna belt drive kit. It's nice and quiet,but there is an issue what was discussed on their facebook page and confirmed that "this wookie growl sound is normal".
Unfortunately they deleted the discussion to hide the facts from future customers.
The issue is a buzzing sound if you accelerate hard.If you accelerate very slowly then it doesn't make that noise.

The sound I recorded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=10xta3FxRRqyB5tEkpTP1XkfJVjNkN8aE

If there's no load on the drive system then it doesn't make that noise
[youtube]sSMmbZ8Rkag[/youtube]

spray some water on it and then pull away hard .... see if the buzzing noise stays away. if so then you can provide the edges of the belt (not the tread / teeth themselves) with a thin layer of bee wax or other natural fat without plasticizers that can damage the rubber of the belt.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

EICMA is only 3 months away, where the public can see the new bikes and dealers can place orders for 2020 models..

 

[madin88]

Luna belt drive kit. It's nice and quiet,but there is an issue what was discussed on their facebook page and confirmed that "this wookie growl sound is normal".
Unfortunately they deleted the discussion to hide the facts from future customers.
The issue is a buzzing sound if you accelerate hard.If you accelerate very slowly then it doesn't make that noise.

What i noticed is theire drive pulley is a two-piece part. Imagine if these two parts have not been exactly aligned during installation, then one half of the belt will see higher loads as the other half. I would not be surprised if this would make an ugly noise then.
The other thing is that it is CNC fabricated which means the tooth profile probably is a bit off.

What is the tooth count of the small pulley?

 

[madin88]

There's two nts thermistors that broke and fired up. Obviously can't get any numbers now. I know Holmes hobbies did a video about turning down the amps on the charger and his had same issues. He connected the wires to get his to work. My electronic knowledge isn't that great, but what I understand is the thermistors limit current based on the heat.
Anyway if anyone knows the part numbers or what kind/size, I'll grab new ones and solder them. Or if I can harvest them from somewhere.
I've shorted the wires and it will charge, got the battery to storage level, but don't know how safe that is.

It seems the NTC thermistors are their approach to prevent large sparks on the charger connector if the battery is connected before the charger AC.
If you always plug in the AC on the charger first, there won't be any sparks anyway, so shorting those thermistors should be OK. If you forget, the charger connector may be damaged by the spark.
If I get time, I can take mine apart and try to get a part number off it.

These NTC's are normally on the AC side to limit inrush current (the sparks) if you plug it in your house socket. Most chargers have this cheap solution.
I would ask someone to open up his charger and take a picture of the part. Then i would buy one with lower R, or simply the next larger size.

 

[Joachim]

There's two nts thermistors that broke and fired up. Obviously can't get any numbers now. I know Holmes hobbies did a video about turning down the amps on the charger and his had same issues. He connected the wires to get his to work. My electronic knowledge isn't that great, but what I understand is the thermistors limit current based on the heat.
Anyway if anyone knows the part numbers or what kind/size, I'll grab new ones and solder them. Or if I can harvest them from somewhere.
I've shorted the wires and it will charge, got the battery to storage level, but don't know how safe that is.

It seems the NTC thermistors are their approach to prevent large sparks on the charger connector if the battery is connected before the charger AC.
If you always plug in the AC on the charger first, there won't be any sparks anyway, so shorting those thermistors should be OK. If you forget, the charger connector may be damaged by the spark.
If I get time, I can take mine apart and try to get a part number off it.

These NTC's are normally on the AC side to limit inrush current (the sparks) if you plug it in your house socket. Most chargers have this cheap solution.
I would ask someone to open up his charger and take a picture of the part. Then i would buy one with lower R, or simply the next larger size.

is this the 1st gen sur-ron chargen are the new one the boards shows kingpan so i think this is the 1st gen charger?
the new one is way beter and bullet proof so maby beter buy a new one 2nd gen

 

[engate]

spray some water on it and then pull away hard .... see if the buzzing noise stays away. if so then you can provide the edges of the belt (not the tread / teeth themselves) with a thin layer of bee wax or other natural fat without plasticizers that can damage the rubber of the belt.

I tried basically everything including spraying water on the belt. It's just a badly designed product.

 

[fechter]

These NTC's are normally on the AC side to limit inrush current (the sparks) if you plug it in your house socket. Most chargers have this cheap solution.
I would ask someone to open up his charger and take a picture of the part. Then i would buy one with lower R, or simply the next larger size.

Yes, you are correct, these things are typically on the AC side and I asked the OP about the location but maybe it wasn't obvious to him. Either way, these parts can generally be bypassed. If you get sparking on the AC plug, it will take a lot before needing replacement and replacement is cheap.

I'm not likely to have time to dissect mine for at least another week. If anyone has more time, it would be nice to get some pics of the insides without damage.

 

[dirkdiggler]

Yes. It's on the AC side. Yes it's the original Kingpan version charger. I'll probably end up getting another charger at some point, but why throw away one that just needs a five dollar part replaced?
If it's just spark prevention I'm okay with that. My 72v lipo had much scarier sparks!

 

[fechter]

In some cases, the inrush can be enough to trip a breaker or possibly blow the bridge rectifier. But I've seen plenty of similar supplies without thermistors that worked fine.

 

[skyungjae]

spray some water on it and then pull away hard .... see if the buzzing noise stays away. if so then you can provide the edges of the belt (not the tread / teeth themselves) with a thin layer of bee wax or other natural fat without plasticizers that can damage the rubber of the belt.

I tried basically everything including spraying water on the belt. It's just a badly designed product.

That sucks. I was really considering buying this kit. I guess I'll stick with my o-ring chain.

 

[fechter]

I opened up my charger and it looks completely different. The part in question on mine is buried in the potting and I can't read any numbers off it. It only has one.

 

[Joachim]

:lol:

 

[dirkdiggler]

Thanks for trying! Mine's the original version, couple pages back. The newer ones look much better inside! Did they try to waterproof them?

 

[crazy_dave]

Hey guys, gotta quick question for ya.
I put (supposedly) the latest version of the X controller on my Sur-ron and now its randomly cutting out on me. The dash and the battery indicator will light up but the bike will not move. I have removed the brake safety switches and the side stand switch and the bike still cuts out. If I let the bike sit, it will work as it should until it cuts out again. Sometimes I can flick the breaker off then back on and the bike will work again. Other times I just have to let it sit.
So…. I’m think I have a loose connection somewhere or there’s something up with the tip over switch. I removed the tip over switch when I instilled the X. Could I have messed something up when I reinstall the tip over switch, can the tip switch be deleted like the brake and the side stand switches?
Is there a way to tell what version of the x-controller I have?
Thanx guys, any help and direction would be greatly appreciated.

 

[crazy_dave]

One other thing, I did put some dielectric grease in the open connectors the I had from removing the brake and side stand switch as well as the open connector on the x-controller.
That shouldn’t matter but…. Thought I’d mention it.

 

[fechter]

The brakes, tip over switch and kickstand switch can all disable the output but will be OK when unplugged. Simply unplugging the tip over switch will disable it.
You might want to also double check the hairball of wires behind the controller for a pinched wire. It's a tight fit when re-installing the controller.

 

[crazy_dave]

Words of wisdom, thank you!
Ill go back in and disable the tip over and check the wiring. Ill report back.
Thanx again!
Dave

 

[that1guy]

spray some water on it and then pull away hard .... see if the buzzing noise stays away. if so then you can provide the edges of the belt (not the tread / teeth themselves) with a thin layer of bee wax or other natural fat without plasticizers that can damage the rubber of the belt.

I tried basically everything including spraying water on the belt. It's just a badly designed product.

I also installed the Luna belt kit. Listening to your recording, I can confirm i hear a very similar buzz. It's kinda annoying, but I'm not gonna throw the baby out with the bath water.

 

[wuhaichao443]

Do you like this tray?

 

[Rix]

Do you like this tray?

Nice!! What size is that? got to be 60T or so.

 

[wuhaichao443]

Do you like this tray?

Nice!! What size is that? got to be 60T or so.

60T

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

Do you like this tray?

Nice!! What size is that? got to be 60T or so.

60T

so where can we get one, link?

 

[Liu]

Do you like this tray?

Nice!! What size is that? got to be 60T or so.

60T

But the first thing is this part need ABE (Allgemeine Betriebserlaubnis für Fahrzeugteile)if use for L1e version.

 

[Merlin]

whats wrong with you? is pedelecforum.de closed or what? :lol:

 

[wuhaichao443]

http://bbs.sur-ron.com/#/t/115