SURRON LB: RESEARCH & DEVELOPEMENT

[fechter]

A solid state relay like that would work but it's huge (and kind of expensive). They do make smaller ones. Here is an example:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...GAEpiMZZMv%2b25x33JEohIyFx2cEByrU8yhwD0zlcsg=
$2.45 ea. Handles 1A load. DIP4 size (very small).

The easiest thing would be to use a NPN transistor as a voltage follower. Pretty much any NPN transistor with enough current rating will work. It will have about a 0.7v drop, but that should not be a problem. A TIP41 is an example. These are dirt cheap and can handle 6A.


My brake light draws about 80mA and hasn't had any issues with contact sticking (yet) but I was concerned about it.

 

[n2mb]

A solid state relay like that would work but it's huge (and kind of expensive). They do make smaller ones. Here is an example:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...GAEpiMZZMv%2b25x33JEohIyFx2cEByrU8yhwD0zlcsg=
$2.45 ea. Handles 1A load. DIP4 size (very small).

The easiest thing would be to use a NPN transistor as a voltage follower. Pretty much any NPN transistor with enough current rating will work. It will have about a 0.7v drop, but that should not be a problem. A TIP41 is an example. These are dirt cheap and can handle 6A.
Brake Switch Booster 1.jpg

My brake light draws about 80mA and hasn't had any issues with contact sticking (yet) but I was concerned about it.

that would work, except you need to add a base resistor on that transistor. otherwise it will draw too much current and the controller will never enable the motor since it won't go to 0V with the switches open.

are the switches normally open or normally closed?

And is the non-controller side of the switch connected to +12V or to ground? Just wondering if it is a pull up or pull down resistor in the controller.

 

[fechter]

The switches are normally open. The brake signal for the controller is normally low and gets pulled up to 12v when you hit the brakes.
The transistor doesn't need a resistor since it's working as a voltage follower.

 

[n2mb]

The switches are normally open. The brake signal for the controller is normally low and gets pulled up to 12v when you hit the brakes.
The transistor doesn't need a resistor since it's working as a voltage follower.

Oh, good call. I've never built a voltage follower using a BJT. Always built those with mosfets. That should work.

 

[fechter]

My brake light is just LEDs in series with a resistor and draws under 100mA, so the tiny switch seems fine. If your brake light uses any kind of switching mode LED driver circuit, there will be a capacitor across the input that would definitely cause problems for the switches. The transistor or relay will prevent that.

On another topic;

One issue I have is my legs are extra long and the distance from the foot pegs to the top of the seat is a little short for my knees to be comfortable. One solution would be to lower the foot pegs a little. An extender bracket would be easy enough to make and try. Since I am primarily riding on the street, the reduced ground clearance wouldn't be a problem.

Another approach would be to raise the seat a little. Even better if there was a way to make a little storage compartment under the seat that was accessible without tools. The seat is held on with 4 bolts, so it wouldn't be too hard to make some extenders. Since we don't want an open gap between the seat and frame, maybe make a "filler" piece with an access door on the side (3D printed?). Even a 1" extension would give enough room for the tool kit to fit in there somewhere.

 

[skyungjae]

My brake light is just LEDs in series with a resistor and draws under 100mA, so the tiny switch seems fine. If your brake light uses any kind of switching mode LED driver circuit, there will be a capacitor across the input that would definitely cause problems for the switches. The transistor or relay will prevent that.

On another topic;

One issue I have is my legs are extra long and the distance from the foot pegs to the top of the seat is a little short for my knees to be comfortable. One solution would be to lower the foot pegs a little. An extender bracket would be easy enough to make and try. Since I am primarily riding on the street, the reduced ground clearance wouldn't be a problem.

Another approach would be to raise the seat a little. Even better if there was a way to make a little storage compartment under the seat that was accessible without tools. The seat is held on with 4 bolts, so it wouldn't be too hard to make some extenders. Since we don't want an open gap between the seat and frame, maybe make a "filler" piece with an access door on the side (3D printed?). Even a 1" extension would give enough room for the tool kit to fit in there somewhere.

Are you part of the owner's group on Facebook? One of the taller members had a similar issue and fabbed this up not too long ago:

 

[fechter]

Are you part of the owner's group on Facebook? One of the taller members had a similar issue and fabbed this up not too long ago:

No, I haven't seen that. Pretty much what I was thinking of. Nice.

 

[Jonathan1981]

Testing out the 3D prints....everything looks pretty good... seems feasible. #1. The parts fit great
#2. They fold back very nicely, the pedal would tend to deflect and rotate upwards also which is good.

Just wish I could hop on and give them a test...

I think the only downside is that they sit out about .75" further than a standard peg... not sure how that will feel in terms of stance or if it will effect performance. Again, sort of thing that needs to be tested first...

Hi guys, just gonna thread bump this project and do a little update...

So I ordered these pegs from ebay:

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/CNC-Pit-Bike-Foot-Pegs-Rests-Footpegs-For-MX-CRF50-XR50-PW50-PW80-KLX110-TTR50/232578042968?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=531966902006&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I installed them and they're pretty cool. They're super fat so they feel almost like a pedal (2.25" front to back, 3.27" wide, right to left). The install was a bit of a PIA as the spring is pretty stiff and the pin is difficult to push through. I recommend grinding or sanding a bit of a chamfer on the tip of the pin to help guide it through the spring windings so it doesn't get hung up when pushing it through....

Also, the pins in the left peg were ALL loose and almost falling out, so not sure what happened there but I put some lock tight and all was good.

The angle is ok but not perfect, without modification, they don't quite sit right, but I found if I slipped a 3/8" washer in where the mount is, it puts them just about right, although the foot plane is still angled backwards by a few degrees but not really that noticeable...

I think for now, given the cost and convenience, this will work for me in terms of "aftermarket" foot peg solution so I'm personally going to put this project (pedal adapters) on the back bench for now.

 

[skyungjae]

Pedal -> motorcycle size

I ended up getting the same pegs in red.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF7S7QK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07BF7S7QK

I left a short review and posted photos on Amazon. :wink:

 

[Jonathan1981]

Pedal -> motorcycle size

I ended up getting the same pegs in red.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF7S7QK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07BF7S7QK

I left a short review and posted photos on Amazon. :wink:

Those are not the same as the one's I got....
Curious, how is the angle? do they sit angled back a bit? or are they just bolt on and go..

 

[skyungjae]

Pedal -> motorcycle size

I ended up getting the same pegs in red.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF7S7QK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07BF7S7QK

I left a short review and posted photos on Amazon. :wink:

Those are not the same as the one's I got....
Curious, how is the angle? do they sit angled back a bit? or are they just bolt on and go..

They feel fine for me. The one on the left side has a little more play, but I think that's due to the design of the spring.

A few people on the FB owners page also purchased them. They may be able to provide additional feedback.

 

[pipeking]

Hi sorry not sure if this is the right place but I need to replace the front wheel bearings on my light bee. Has anyone else done this yet? They look like they use the same axle as mountain bike hubs so I'm wondering if they are just mountain bike wheel bearings? Probably plastic if the headsets anything to go by... :lol:

 

[Rix]

Hi sorry not sure if this is the right place but I need to replace the front wheel bearings on my light bee. Has anyone else done this yet? They look like they use the same axle as mountain bike hubs so I'm wondering if they are just mountain bike wheel bearings? Probably plastic if the headsets anything to go by... :lol:

Yep, same 20mm axles that DH bikes use. Shouldn't be any problems getting bearings for the hub.

 

[Jonathan1981]

Hi sorry not sure if this is the right place but I need to replace the front wheel bearings on my light bee. Has anyone else done this yet? They look like they use the same axle as mountain bike hubs so I'm wondering if they are just mountain bike wheel bearings? Probably plastic if the headsets anything to go by... :lol:

Yep, same 20mm axles that DH bikes use. Shouldn't be any problems getting bearings for the hub.

Yep. Just go to your local bearing shop or look on-line for 20IDx32ODx6mm wide. bearings easy cheasy

 

[Rix]

Hi sorry not sure if this is the right place but I need to replace the front wheel bearings on my light bee. Has anyone else done this yet? They look like they use the same axle as mountain bike hubs so I'm wondering if they are just mountain bike wheel bearings? Probably plastic if the headsets anything to go by... :lol:

Yep, same 20mm axles that DH bikes use. Shouldn't be any problems getting bearings for the hub.

Yep. Just go to your local bearing shop or look on-line for 20IDx32ODx6mm wide. bearings easy cheasy

Woops, I guess I left the bearing dimensions out, thanks for catching that.

 

[pipeking]

Hi sorry not sure if this is the right place but I need to replace the front wheel bearings on my light bee. Has anyone else done this yet? They look like they use the same axle as mountain bike hubs so I'm wondering if they are just mountain bike wheel bearings? Probably plastic if the headsets anything to go by... :lol:

Yep, same 20mm axles that DH bikes use. Shouldn't be any problems getting bearings for the hub.

Yep. Just go to your local bearing shop or look on-line for 20IDx32ODx6mm wide. bearings easy cheasy

Woops, I guess I left the bearing dimensions out, thanks for catching that.

I know right, so I start searching for DH wheel bearings... no joy? I can only find hubs?

I then search for that specific size bearing and all I can find is this:

https://www.bearingandengineering.co.nz/shop/BEARINGS/Bearings/Deep+Groove+Ball/Single+Row+Metric/BALL+BEARING+6018+NIS.html

I know my options are somewhat limited considering I live in a third world country, but $35 a piece sounds a little bit steep to me...

This bikes only done 550Km in fcuking total

starting to wonder about these things, the range is suspect as hell too

 

[pipeking]

The 'dealer' doesn't even reply...

 

[fechter]

Are you sure the bearings aren't 7mm wide? 20mm x 32mm x 7mm seems to be a very common size you can find tons of on eBay for cheap.
This size is labeled 6804.

 

[Rix]

Are you sure the bearings aren't 7mm wide? 20mm x 32mm x 7mm seems to be a very common size you can find tons of on eBay for cheap.
This size is labeled 6804.

It may be 7mm instead of 6mm. I will need to check mine later this week.

 

[Jonathan1981]

Are you sure the bearings aren't 7mm wide? 20mm x 32mm x 7mm seems to be a very common size you can find tons of on eBay for cheap.
This size is labeled 6804.

It may be 7mm instead of 6mm. I will need to check mine later this week.

Yep. If all you can find is 7mm, which looks like the case, then they're 7mm. I measured quickly so

 

[pipeking]

thanks guys that number looks better, easy to find, and cheap too

chur!

 

[pipeking]

Right, so new bearings arrived this week, today I attempted replacement. They were rusty in behind the spacer seals and noisy too, so definitely toast. I have ridden this thing through around knee deep water a couple of times, so I'm guessing that would have done it. Not usually an issue on motor cross bikes, but they have a much better seal system in their hubs.

So anyway, the inner spacer won't shift enough to the side to get a grip on the inner race with the puller I had. Off to the shop... he had a go, and had the same issues I did, the spacer just won't move much more than half a mil to either side making it difficult to grab hold of the inner race. He has another puller at home that may work so I left the wheel with him.

Will keep you posted on how I get on, I assume I am one of the first people to need replacement wheel bearings?

 

[Jonathan1981]

10-4. Hope it works, keep us posted...

 

[pipeking]

Got the wheel back yesterday, the guy said he needed to use a puller that tightened up and clamped onto the inner race. Only cost me $20 so that was sweet anyway, bit of a hassle having to drive out of town, it sucks here no good shops.

I just got some Fox 40s picking them up next week...

 

[E-geezer]

If you guys are having rusting problems, get some fully stainless bearings, they aren't that expensive and it beats replacing them all the time.