Tabless A123 AMP20M1HD-A on Ebay?

that is so clever. ingenious in fact. he figured out how to reuse the cells after the tabs were torn off. maybe at the factory when they did not pass spec. they tear the tabs off to prevent them from going into circulation but this guy thought up a way to use them anyway. what he did is not easy either.

i have tried to cut the plastic off the surface of the tab underneath and it is impossible, but he did it. just wow.

that pack looks like 40Ah 21S.
 
Based on the appearance of the ones on the ebay page, it looks like the plastic was melted off. Probably by a clamping heated fixture, possibly powered by the cell itself.

The ones on teh taobao page look better and have much more usable tab area, but probably were stripped the same way, using a better fixture.

If I were to try such a thing, I would take a reasonably-sharp (but not cutting-sharp) edged shallow box, on either side of the tab area of the cell, with a heating element attached to each box to get them just hot enough to melt thru the plastic. If it is machined or otherwise made to tight tolerances, you could use razor edges on the boxes, so that htey cut thru the foil layers as well, as they melt thru the plastic. Then just pull the cell straight back out of the still-closed fixture, to pull the stuff off the tabs. Probably I'd make a lever-operated clamp that held the cell and was able to pull it back in a straight line, to help prevent tab damage.


Might be more complex than that, but that's what I'd try first.
 
The only thing that seals the pouch to the tabs is that heat sensitive glue.
Making that seal area any narrower than they come seems like a bad idea.


They could be RnD cells that were written off and "destroyed ".

They could be tab weld errors that were "destroyed ".

They could be QC rejected cells taken from the recycler.

Not sure, seems pretty sketchy though.
 
No tabs is sure suspicious. We are some skeptics here, but not for no reason.
 
I asked the seller why the tabs were missing, his response:

"Hello: The batteries are made in Korean,when them shipped to China,they cut off the tabs in order to remove tariffs as garbage.You know ,China always import Industrial waste from developed countries.
But in fact ,they are all new ones! The only thing is tabs,but we have already solved the problem as you see from the picture! Also ,you can connect them yourself.
These batteries have already sold hundreds to French?USA?Australia and Portugal?and they are all used well! You can know this from my feedback.
best wishes. xueming208"
 
djryanrhymes said:
"Hello: The batteries are made in Korean,when them shipped to China,they cut off the tabs in order to remove tariffs as garbage.You know ,China always import Industrial waste from developed countries.

Well, even if this is really the only reason, it look like 37 $ per cell is still a sensitive price ... :roll:
Better than 80 $ from sources that sell them new ... but HEY!!!!! :mrgreen:
From the pictures, posted by people that bought them, it looks like that all of them has tiny scratches,
handwritten labels or similar oddity .... to me this is a bit suspicious ... even if nobody than complained :?

I'm telling this because with the 500 $ needed to buy 16 of those 'crappy shiny new' cells to build a 60v 20Ah pack
you can as well buy a decent amount of hardcase LiPO bricks on HK to provide you with an equivalent capacity
battery and enough spares to overcome the few probable HK dude-shipped LiPOs and also few replacements left
for the eventual problems that can occur during the battery life ... not to forget the higher C rate ... 800 A peak ...
and the fact that you buy NEW cells ... 8) 8) 8)

have fun!
 
zEEz said:
I'm telling this because with the 500 $ needed to buy 16 of those 'crappy shiny new' cells to build a 60v 20Ah pack you can as well buy a decent amount of hardcase LiPO bricks on HK to provide you with an equivalent capacity
battery and enough spares to overcome the few probable HK dude-shipped LiPOs and also few replacements left
for the eventual problems that can occur during the battery life ... not to forget the higher C rate ... 800 A peak ...
and the fact that you buy NEW cells ... 8) 8) 8)
have fun!

That C rate is useful for RC, not for EV's; if you actually discharge at that high C rate you will run out of current in 2 minutes. Dunno why LiPo FanBoys always throw the c-rate stat out there like it is gonna make your bike run faster/further.

Of course, since HK LiPo is rated 300-500 cycles, and the a123 is rated at 2000 cycles, you will have to Buy The LiPo Pack 4+ times to cover the same cycle life as the a123's. That is a lot to pay for the mere 15% weight savings HK LiPo offers over a123 prisimatics.

You did not include the cost of the charging setup/cell monitors/etc, whereas the a123 can be safely charged with a $40 PSU.

And then there is that pesky little LiPo thermal runaway problem...

-JD
 
oatnet said:
That C rate is useful for RC, not for EV's; if you actually discharge at that high C rate you will run out of current in 2 minutes. Dunno why LiPo FanBoys always throw the c-rate stat out there like it is gonna make your bike run faster/further.


If your 50v pack sags to 40v under load, you just threw away 20% of your packs energy into resistive loss.
If your 50v pack says to 49v under load, you just threw away 2% of your packs energy into resistive loss.

It is never worse to have a lower resistance cell, and always better.

If it's better in enough of a way to be worth the cost difference is something the individual user needs to decide.

Likewise, RC LiPo can and does go 4-digit's on cycle life when treated right. More importantly, as a recreational user, I see under 100cycles per year on an ebike pack, even if it only was good for 300 cycles, it would last me 3 years into the future where I'm not going to want my old 3 year old battery tech anymore anyways, as things will be new and lighter and safer with more capacity for cheaper etc.


IMHO, what makes no sense at all is buying a battery that will last you 10 years of soggy performance. It's like buying a computer with a 10 year warranty or something, so what if you can still have it work 10 years from now? It's the last thing you would want to be using.
 
since i have had a lipo fire at my house, i think the risk of thermal runaway is the most important.

almost all of these people live in apartments too so they could be at risk of manslaughter charges if the DA shows the jury the clear and present danger these large power packs create in an uncontrolled thermal breakdown.

i don't think many of these people realize the risk and to minimize it implies it is not a true risk. and they should not be shipping them on airplanes either, imo. even though everyone thinks it is a not an issue. it is not pesky when a 30 unit apartment building burns down and millions of dollars in losses and lives are at risk. jmho.

but you see them burn down all the time from people putting their barbeque coals in the garbage, and smoking and cooking fires, but lipo fires are preventable if people just knew the risk and took adequate precautions
 
hi oatnet,
I'm not really a C fanboy, but in the first post it is declared the interest to use those cells
for a motorcycle, not an ebike ... motorbikes need current ... :p
Those a123 are just 60 A continuous that is fine for ebike, but too small for a motorbike.
Even with 3 parallel they would be just enough ... :roll:
Instead, using the LiPO cells far below their C rating is a guarantee of long life ...
Perhaps I'm biased because I don't like unknown cells, but HK is selling also
LiFE if needed, at reasonable cost... :oops:

That said, if I was now to build a pack for a motorbike of size 60v 80Ah, since I have
a small 10kW motor, I would have probably directed my mind to a set of 64x a123,
probably from this guy for the simplicity and intrinsic safety of this solution ... :wink:
not to mention the limited disbursement needed (2000$ or less if bought directly from him)

BUT, since my motorbike is not built yet, and I foresee a minimum of
1 year to achieve anything, I just hope to find a better deal in the future and for this reason
I happily skip this option!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

have fun!
 
liveforphysics said:
It's like buying a computer with a 10 year warranty or something, so what if you can still have it work 10 years from now? It's the last thing you would want to be using.

That reminds me... I have an old '486 system with one of those Pentium upgrade drop in processors (66 MHz! WooHoo!) that has a lifetime warranty. That upgrade processor is now dead... I need to send it to Intel and get a replacement :twisted: And I DO still have the original paperwork.
 
texaspyro said:
liveforphysics said:
It's like buying a computer with a 10 year warranty or something, so what if you can still have it work 10 years from now? It's the last thing you would want to be using.

That reminds me... I have an old '486 system with one of those Pentium upgrade drop in processors (66 MHz! WooHoo!) that has a lifetime warranty. That upgrade processor is now dead... I need to send it to Intel and get a replacement :twisted: And I DO still have the original paperwork.


LOL! They must love you. :)

I hope the warranty covers shipping, or the $15 to box and send it back is going to exceed the cost to buy 5 more of them. :) But it's priceless to have Intel trying to scramble to find replacement parts for you. lol
 
zEEz said:
hi oatnet,
Those a123 are just 60 A continuous that is fine for ebike, but too small for a motorbike.

Hmmm, thats making me second guess my plan... 11.5Kw ME1003, AXE7245, 72V 20Ah pack..... for a 40Km range and top speed of 110Km.... am I way off?
 
72V x 20Ah ~ 1.5KWh.

That's a pretty small pack for those kinds of speeds (68MPH) and ranges (25 miles). I don't think it will get you anywhere near what you want.

On my 26-30Wh/mile CrazyBike2, I do about 20MPH fastest, 14-15MPH average, getting around 20 miles out of a 12Ah 48V pack (about 600Wh).

If I were to go the nearly 70MPH you're planning, I doubt I would get 3-4 miles out of it (assuming I had it all setup for those speeds), even if I had a fairing to help with the wind. Even a full velo setup probably would not get me even 10 miles out of it, if that.

What Wh/mile (or Wh/km) are you expecting of your system? Because to do what you want, you'd have to have a system that *at the highest speeds* was only going to take 60Wh/mile. Maybe at 20-30MPH, maybe even up to 35MPH, but I doubt it could be such a small number at twice that speed.

If you havent' already done so, I think you will want to look at some vehicle simulators for how much power it's liekly to take to keep you running at the speeds you're after, just on the flats, not counting any hills (which will take notably more).
 
i dont know where the 60a max came from, they are good for more like 300a+, the spec sheet here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=32093&start=15 states 1200w nominal output power per cell..

when they are capable of giving their entire capacity within 3.5 mins and about the same wh/kg as lipo, i dont really see anywhere that lipo are ahead, and plenty of areas where a123's are.

the e-waste story about the cut off tabs appears odd but ive bought heaps from that dude and tested a few of them and they are perfect, new cells. you can also get these in full tab, brand new from a123rc (ive had hundreds of cells from them -all good) and others for around 50-$55 usd delivered, at present its fair to say they are "available", and they are the only cells (since nicads) that i have ever owned for over a year and many hundreds of cycles that i can say im happy with. :roll: -ALL others have been fun and games for a while, but dont last long after the daily grind in the real world.
 
toolman2 said:
i dont know where the 60a max came from, they are good for more like 300a+, the spec sheet here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=32093&start=15 states 1200w nominal output power per cell..

I just read the 3C rating the seller is quoting on his page, he tells 10C for 10 seconds ...
Considering the limited tab surface for contacting and Thundersky specs I was convinced it is a reasonable value ... :roll:

toolman2 said:
they are the only cells (since nicads) that i have ever owned for over a year and many hundreds of cycles that i can say im happy with. :roll: -ALL others have been fun and games for a while, but dont last long after the daily grind in the real world.

This is a very good news ... so you mean that you bought many cells from this guy and also from a123rc, you compare them,
you tested and abused them and they worked pretty consistently? This is very interesting .... 8)

djryanrhymes said:
Hmmm, thats making me second guess my plan... 11.5Kw ME1003, AXE7245, 72V 20Ah pack..... for a 40Km range and top speed of 110Km.... am I way off?

16 cells is more like a 60v 20Ah pack ... 110kmh is high speed for such a pack, even if your bike is a light
converted race gas 125cc. :)
As I said earlier about my motorbike plan, you should think about 60 to 80Ah pack with your wanted specs ...
20Ah is good for e-bike but is just a lousy 'test to see if it moves' pack for a motorbike ... :roll:
it is something like my 72v 2.2Ah pack to test an e-pocketbike ... if you need range you need 10 to 20 Ah ...

have fun!
 
djryanrhymes said:
zEEz said:
hi oatnet,
Those a123 are just 60 A continuous that is fine for ebike, but too small for a motorbike.

Hmmm, thats making me second guess my plan... 11.5Kw ME1003, AXE7245, 72V 20Ah pack..... for a 40Km range and top speed of 110Km.... am I way off?

Well given the Ebay sellers info on C rating (3C constant - 10C burst for 30 seconds) these cells gould well be rejects with higher than spec IR? These cells are supposed to be rated at ~20C are they not?

Well if they are 3C constant your 60a at 48V will be lucky to get you over about 70km/h. and with 20AH you will be looking somewhere around 20km range. To make a 100km/h and 40km range pack you will be looking at around 40AH minimum and what ever voltage you need to get your motor up to 110km/h
 
zEEz said:
toolman2 said:
i dont know where the 60a max came from, they are good for more like 300a+, the spec sheet here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=32093&start=15 states 1200w nominal output power per cell..

I just read the 3C rating the seller is quoting on his page, he tells 10C for 10 seconds ...
Considering the limited tab surface for contacting and Thundersky specs I was convinced it is a reasonable value ... :roll:


toolman2 said:
they are the only cells (since nicads) that i have ever owned for over a year and many hundreds of cycles that i can say im happy with. :roll: -ALL others have been fun and games for a while, but dont last long after the daily grind in the real world.

This is a very good news ... so you mean that you bought many cells from this guy and also from a123rc, you compare them,
you tested and abused them and they worked pretty consistently? This is very interesting .... 8)


ah yes, i remember now, that dude sends out some red wires and screws with the cells and says 60a max -so yes using that termination method i would not go above 40a!
but we scraped back the pouch and used a strip of copper and loaded the cells to 200-300a and they held around 3.0v, and the capacity was 19.4 to 19.7ah at 20a load -ie the cells are sweet. basically its been the same exact story for these cells no matter where ive had them from, but to be honest i would not bother pissing around again with the cut off tab ones unless you have heaps of time and no money, cos it took ages.
the better option to me is a123rc cos you can buy just one to check it all out, free shipping, and protected by paypal.
 
toolman2 said:
ah yes, i remember now, that dude sends out some red wires and screws with the cells and says 60a max -so yes using that termination method i would not go above 40a!
the better option to me is a123rc cos you can buy just one to check it all out, free shipping, and protected by paypal.

Good, I suspected something like this .... and I confess so much talking about this a123 cell made me curious :mrgreen:

Anybody has the email of this taobao guy?
I would ask him if he is willing to send me a single cell to test since I'm interested in making a big pack
in the future (60 cells) ... If he can offer me the taobao price (around 18$) + shipping with
paypal payment, I would be very keen to take 1 cell and to torture it :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

have fun!
 
amberwolf said:
72V x 20Ah ~ 1.5KWh.

That's a pretty small pack for those kinds of speeds (68MPH) and ranges (25 miles). I don't think it will get you anywhere near what you want.

+1 AW is right, 72v20a is not adequate for that duty cycle. My Vectrix came with a 150v30ah pack (3.7kw rated), and it MIGHT complete 20-25 miles at 70mph.

-JD
 
I posted this in another thread, but it is worth repeating here.

I have messed with a few of these tabless cells and found one very important thing to be careful about. The foil pouch material on these cells is connected to the negative anode side of the battery. It is separated from the positive terminal by a thin layer of teflon and is also coated with a plastic layer on the outside. On the regular tab cells the teflon insulator sticks out from under the foil about 1mm up the terminal to keep them well separated and there is plenty of tab to work with without getting your termination too close to the foil pouch material. On the short tabs, when you grind down the foil material and its underlying teflon insulator on the positive termainal, you don't have so much room to work with and it makes for a potential short circuit if any solder or screwed-on terminal lugs should come in contact with the pouch foil. Therefore, it is very important that any kind of solder or clamp used on the positive terminal have at least 1mm of clearance from touching the foil pouch material. Any overlap and it could touch the now-exposed edge of the foil or wear through the outer coating and short out the battery.
 
liveforphysics said:
oatnet said:
That C rate is useful for RC, not for EV's; if you actually discharge at that high C rate you will run out of current in 2 minutes. Dunno why LiPo FanBoys always throw the c-rate stat out there like it is gonna make your bike run faster/further.
If your 50v pack sags to 40v under load, you just threw away 20% of your packs energy into resistive loss.
If your 50v pack says to 49v under load, you just threw away 2% of your packs energy into resistive loss.

You schooled me here, I did not consider that when you are riding an exhibition bike with a 10c discharge and 6 minute run time, IR/sag really comes into play and significant current is wasted.

However, when one is commuting on a typical EV wath a 1c discharge and 60 minute run time, the discharge C=sag is small, so the current wasted is not as significant. For example, on the 20s LiFePO4 bike I rode to week this morning, I think that the resting voltage was 66v, and 64.3v under a 1.1c load, for a drop of .085/cell, so I guess I had 2.58% resistive losses through the pack/wiring/controller/motor.

liveforphysics said:
Likewise, RC LiPo can and does go 4-digit's on cycle life when treated right. More importantly, as a recreational user, I see under 100cycles per year on an ebike pack, even if it only was good for 300 cycles, it would last me 3 years into the future where I'm not going to want my old 3 year old battery tech anymore anyways, as things will be new and lighter and safer with more capacity for cheaper etc.

Seeing a 1000-cycle data point for HK LiPo would change my perception of lipo, I haven't seen folks posting that experience. Can you point me to someone who has demonstrated that? I'd expect you haven't experience that, as it would be 10 years of riding for you. :lol:

I remember reading one of your posts recently, where you mention that you have probably ridden less than 500 miles on an ebike despite being in the hobby for a few years. That makes sense, you like exhibition bikes, and as you stated you get more payoff from building, so you like spending more time under the bike than on it. You come up with some really cool stuff that we all love to see, but I assert that your duty cycle does not represent most of the folks here.

There is no 'right' answer for all builds, there are different 'right' answers for different builds. I wouldn't dream of suggesting that your bikes be powered like my commutor bikes are - our design criterea is totally different. However, you sometimes make recommendations to commuters based on your exhibition bike experience and assume it applys to everyone, when it may not, and I think this is such a case.

For example, I put a cycle a day or more on an ebike pack, either commuting, or errands, or riding along the beach. While your pack may die of calendar age before the cycles are used, 300 cycles is less than a year for commuters like me. Further, calendar age is important to me too - I have 4 year old LifePO4 bikes I built in 2007 that I still pull out and ride - even if there is a newer cooler battery, I don't want to replace the old one when the old one is just fine. I have other packs that I have repurposed onto new builds - why spend money on tomorrow's whiz-bang new chemistry to save 3lbs, when the old chemistry meets the discharge requirement just fine? I'd rather buy cells with enough cycles for a decade, and spend the savings buying/trying new motors.

liveforphysics said:
It's like buying a computer with a 10 year warranty or something, so what if you can still have it work 10 years from now? It's the last thing you would want to be using.

Great example. I have (8) computers scattered about my house, some 10+yo, some new. The old ones meet my needs just fine, they surf exactly as fast as the new ones. The only thing that dual quad-core does is give me bragging rights that my puter is fast, I don't use that extra horsepower. It would be different for a diehard gamer, we'd have different needs.

I can see how LiPo and chain/belt driven motors suits your needs very well, and how they are great for many applications. Can you see how my needs might be different, and LiFePO4 and hubbies a great fit for my them? :D

-JD
 
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