Test The Brake Lever Switch help

[omadawn]

Hi
As a newbie trying to fix my new e-scooter (off warranty) and looking for help on the process.

500W brushless motor, 24v battery (charged 1st time) showing on the LCD panel 29.7 Volt

Lights work fine, Horn too, the motor simply wont start.
Already tried with foot pushing with throttle on, but nothing...

Now am working on the "Test The Brake Lever Switch "

As you can see in the picture attached, both wires have a welding, I would not like to brake it....is there a way that with the multimeter only I can preform this check up?

thanks

 

[Voltron]

You should be able to test it right there, by poking the metal tabs with your meter... Just don't slip and bridge them together.

 

[omadawn]

Let's say the meter shows 1, there is no current obstruction, then what can I assume that the problem is?

Thanks

 

[Voltron]

There should be no current with the brake released.

 

[omadawn]

Let's say that there is, to test it I set the multimeter for 20 volt limit, and see see what happens right?

 

[Voltron]

You could either set it for volts (usually should be about 5 volts) or continuity (open circuit with the lever not pulled)
If you have 2 wire type brake switches, and if they plug in at the other end you can unplug them to test too

 

[omadawn]

No, I just have one brake on my left side, and those two red and black wires you see in the pic. Monday I will make the test and post here the result.

Thanks

 

[Voltron]

What I meant was some brake switches have 3 wires going to them (Hall sensor type... Harder to test).

Even though it's only one lever, yours is two wire type.

 

[omadawn]

Hi

Battery on, brakes off, resistance test shows a perfect "1", and the brake light turns on (have no idea why)

Voltage test shows 14.86 V, brake light off.

what to conclude from this regarding the initial quest ?


thanks

 

[Voltron]

I don't know what 1 means on your meter.. Is that perfect continuity or perfect resistance? If it's the same thing as touching the meter probes together gets you, and the brake light is on without the lever being pulled, then the wires are probably pinched and shorting the 2 wires together somewhere, or the switch in the lever failed in the on position. Either of those stop the motor...

 

[omadawn]

.. Is that perfect continuity or perfect resistance?

Perfect continuity, sorry.

the brake light is on without the lever being pulled

Yes, however, as soon as I disconnect the meter, it goes off...

then the wires are probably pinched and shorting the 2 wires together somewhere

what do u mean with this? the negative and positive poles are joined somewhere?
and what about the measurement of the 14.86 V ? you haven´t commented on that...
just for the record the LCD screen still shows full charge (29.6 V)

 

[omadawn]

Found the switch of the brake lever: if I turn it on, stop light is on, if I push it to turn off, stop light goes off. Neither of both modes makes the motor run.

With the stop light on, meter shows 14.9 V. With the switch to off position there is no current.

 

[omadawn]

From what I experimented it seems the brake lever is not the problem...am I right?

So now, considering it´s a completely new Scooter, what would be logical to check out next?


thanks

 

[MesquiteTim]

check all other connections at the controller

 

[omadawn]

You mean The throttle controller?

 

[omadawn]

There's the throttle controller, have no idea on how to open it, removed the 2 screws, don't want to force anything, need help.

 

[TommyCat]

Hi Omadawn,

Lets quick clear up a few things and then move on...

Hi
Battery on, brakes off, resistance test shows a perfect "1", and the brake light turns on (have no idea why)

Voltage test shows 14.86 V, brake light off.

First off you never test a circuit for continuity (resistance, ohms) with the power on. And then have one end at least of the circuit disconnected for reliable results.

The voltage is a reading of voltage potential... not current. (that would be amperage) :wink:

Found the switch of the brake lever: if I turn it on, stop light is on, if I push it to turn off, stop light goes off. Neither of both modes makes the motor run.

With the stop light on, meter shows 14.9 V. With the switch to off position there is no current.

Stop light operation sounds normal. The voltage reading seems wrong as I would expect a closed switch to energize the brake light. Your first post with the voltage reading sounded better... voltage with the brake off. But with it on it should equal 0 voltage potential or 0vdc. With that high of voltage you might be using a controller that supports High brake, or 12vdc or higher to energize braking/stop the motor. To summarize... Brake on-no voltage. Brake off 14.9 volts. = good switch.

But the brake function is to stop the motor operation... not actually start it. Unless your holding the throttle open (or on). But a bad switch (always closed) will keep it off.

For throttle testing you will need access to it's wires of course. Does the throttles cable go into the control panel? Or go directly to the controller? Some front control panels are easier to open.

Please look over my thread on hall sensor throttles. And we'll continue on... if needed.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/kits/golden-motor-magic-pie


Regards,
T.C.

 

[omadawn]

For throttle testing you will need access to it's wires of course. Does the throttles cable go into the control panel? Or go directly to the controller? Some front control panels are easier to open.

hi
you can see the way the cable is connected to the throttle in the picture, can you not?

thanks

 

[TommyCat]

It's the other end I was referring too. Some place (printed circuit board) or connection with easier access too, to do some testing.

You might even run across a bad connection that I think Tim was suggesting looking for...

check all other connections at the controller

Or a thumb throttle disassembly is in that thread. :thumb:

 

[omadawn]

As expected, a complete mess of cables to me...
however I see that the 2 large black cables, 1 comes from the throttle the other from the LCD panel.
One of those, you can see in the picture, that it is located the most on top (comes a green, yellow and red from it)

Is that the throttle one?

 

[TommyCat]

Nice easy to probe connections! Nice. Tip: If your meter leads are too big to back probe the pins. Stick a straight pin in and use alligator clips...

True that you would be looking for a three wire connection. But I'm not convinced that is the one. It would be odd that it is split up and goes to two different controller connectors. But take your voltage meter to it and check to see what you have. Use the testing procedure picture posted above. No harm will come by testing for voltages, unless you short the probes together. Do not short your probes together. Any high voltages, and your not in the right place. Should have 5vdc and lower. Don't the brake cable, and the two button push button switch assembly cable head down there too?

I'd look at the controller connections, for one with three wires. Test it, and see where it goes.
To review,
One wire 5vdc+ supply.
One wire 0vdc- supply ground or negative.
One wire sensor output ~.8 vdc to ~3.6 vdc as throttle is twisted to wide open throttle. (WOT)

Even better, provide the controller and scooter information. Makes and models, pictures of the stickers, wiring diagrams, links etc. Would cut down on questions and enable more accurate testing suggestions!

 

[omadawn]

Even better, provide the controller and scooter information. Makes and models, pictures of the stickers, wiring diagrams, links etc. Would cut down on questions and enable more accurate testing suggestions!

Surely it would be much better if I had them, but I don't, just a poor manual, with the basic info only, that's why I really depend on you guys for help and learning at the same time
So, by the way, thank you so much for your dedicated help!

It has to be that one, the other has 5 wires... The yellow is ground right?
As soon n as I get the measures, will post them here.

 

[omadawn]

Yellow with the green and got nothing... Shows 0 V.

It's the wires that come from the throttle right? That's right it can only be the 2 black I told you before (thickness issues) , will test the other now

 

[omadawn]

Now to the other possible black cable , there's is a white and brown that go somewhere, and there's a black red and blue, so black is the negative /ground, witch one is the signal?

 

[omadawn]

Ok, I got 0.83V on the blue, and 4.3V on the red...

For my desperation, it seems everything normal here too... :?