monkmartinez- very good. You've already done some work in this area. Did you arrive at using the braided copper strip on your own or by seeing it used elsewhere?
Yes, arguably the best feature of my design is the customizable single large case which accomplishes several things at once. That will eliminate the complexity of your multi-part prototypes as you've said. The case still must be securely attached to your bike or machine. It would be easy to zip tie it to a rear bike rack for example. For my builds I either welded or bolted sturdy brackets to the frames as pictured previously.
The side walls and end walls must be very stiff. The clear polycarbonate (Lexan) lid pegs the cool meter, and the see-thru cells are the first thing people notice when commenting about the bikes out on the street. Humorously, many people have asked "is that solar powered?"..........
Polycarbonate is a miracle material IMO. DO NOT, I repeat do not, use shatter prone acrylic instead for the lid- that stuff has no place in this application- and I never use it for anything. Poly is explosion and bulletproof in adequate thickness, is easily drilled, sawn and shaped. It's not very stiff however, hence the aluminum angle straps on the wider gray pack.
Reread my posts for construction and tolerance specs. Avoid shims. Absolute minimum clearances must be held- easy once you know your printer, which must be able to do at least 16" one way for 5s/layer.
Whole case is top loading with all internal and external buss plates in place and screws backed off. Be damn sure you design the internal plates (which are hand dimpled for contact) to be captured so they can't move and short your whole pack.
Lay in the bottom layer of cells and parallel strips, add the
.032" Lexan insulator sheet, reverse cell orientation and lay down second layer, etc.... when you're done the top layer of cells should be about .005" proud of the case sidewalls (which allows the whole stack to clamped down). Screw the lid on snug enough to keep all cells flat and such that they can still move longitudinally. Adjust the screws and lock nuts from the bottom row up, then screw lid down tight. This all takes skill and feel. And used cells must be burr free with old weld tabs carefully removed and make sure the + ends have no flaws in the overwrap insulation. I do not use additional fiber or plastic ring washers.
Also since you're printing- add projecting insulator fins between the external copper bus plates.
You have your work cut out for you. A lot of measuring to do!
