Throttle intermittently works

[Cbloom88]

Throttle intermittent and only works now when I play with or twist the throttle wires? Help!

 

[Ianhill]

Loose connection or a wire thas wrapped twisted and damaged ? Could just replace or find the issue and cut the cable and resolder depends how competent u are

 

[amberwolf]

Throttle intermittent and only works now when I play with or twist the throttle wires? Help!

Not enough detail to give much specific help, but:

The last part implies there is a wiring fault, probably a wire broken at the point the cable enters either throttle body or wherever the cable goes at the other end, or if there are connectors at the point where the cable enters those, or inside the connectors themselves. Can't say much else about that without knowing exactly where in the "wires" that moving them causes a change in operation.

It's very likely that it is not the ground wire, since if that breaks it usually makes the system go full throttle for teh many poorly designed controllers without protection against that. If that's not what happens, then it's probably the signal wire, or the power wire (if it has one; hall throttles do but some potentiometer throttles do not).

The "only works now" part implies it did work correctly at some time, and after some event it begain to fail...if you ponder on the events around that time, you may be able to figure out which of them was directly related to the problem, and use that to help you locate the fault.



Also, I moved your thread from Bike Mechanical & Structural (wierd place to post it) to EBike Troubleshooting (assuming that it's a bicycle and not a motorcycle, scooter, treadmill, boat, tractor, surfboard, skateboard, airplane, car, truck, etc., since you don't say what the throttle operates when it does work).

 

[Cbloom88]

Not enough detail to give much specific help, but:

The last part implies there is a wiring fault, probably a wire broken at the point the cable enters either throttle body or wherever the cable goes at the other end, or if there are connectors at the point where the cable enters those, or inside the connectors themselves. Can't say much else about that without knowing exactly where in the "wires" that moving them causes a change in operation.

It's very likely that it is not the ground wire, since if that breaks it usually makes the system go full throttle for teh many poorly designed controllers without protection against that. If that's not what happens, then it's probably the signal wire, or the power wire (if it has one; hall throttles do but some potentiometer throttles do not).

The "only works now" part implies it did work correctly at some time, and after some event it begain to fail...if you ponder on the events around that time, you may be able to figure out which of them was directly related to the problem, and use that to help you locate the fault.



Also, I moved your thread from Bike Mechanical & Structural (wierd place to post it) to EBike Troubleshooting (assuming that it's a bicycle and not a motorcycle, scooter, treadmill, boat, tractor, surfboard, skateboard, airplane, car, truck, etc., since you don't say what the throttle operates when it does work).

Sorry it’s it’s a Gary fisher mountain bike with a 1200w bike link electric conversion kit purchased on Amazon. I’ll post a couple pics. It seems to be about 8-10” down the wire coming from the throttle itself. (throttle body.) it is getting harder and harder to get it to work now. I have to twist it or pull or push sometimes to get it to respond.

 

[amberwolf]

It seems to be about 8-10” down the wire coming from the throttle itself. (throttle body.) it is getting harder and harder to get it to work now. I have to twist it or pull or push sometimes to get it to respond.

As noted, you'll have to locate the wiring or connection fault and repair it to fix the problem.

None of your pictures clearly show the throttle cable in the area you describe, so I can't look at it for you.

If there's no obvious external damage or visual indication to the cable jacket, then you may have to cut open the cable jacket at the spot you manipulate to make it work, and then start peeling back the jacket in both directions until you find the actual problem.

If you already know the location of the fault, cutting open the cable at that spot will probably reveal a wire broken or pulled apart inside the cable jacket, or inside the insulation of the individual wire there.

You may find it's actually spliced together there, in some unusual way, inside the cable jacket, from the cable manufacturer (long before the cable was used to make ebike parts). I've seen this multiple times, where the cable maker ran out of one of the wires in a multiple-wire cable, and put a new reel up on the stand of that wire, twisted the end of it together with the old one (or evne just overlapped the bare ends!) and kept it feeding into the machine that molds the jacket over the wires.

Once you find the fault, you can splice it back together, insulate it from the other wires, and re-cover the area with the cut-open jacket. There are a number of ways to do these things, and we can cover them when you reach this point.


You may also find it isn't actually broken where you're manipulating it, but rather that at that spot you're pulling on a connector or other spot that actually has the problem.