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w00000000000000t found it, the MSDS For the battery, This should answer all the questions I was getting
 

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So last time I asked apparently I lacked the required intel to garner any feedback, so I now have the required info , also my first build with them to get a serious work out was a success (8S 20AH Setup in an electric skateboard designed for 24V) Now moving on to a 60 or 72V Set up for a Hannebrink bike. Really would like some temperature sensors in this and/or the skateboard so if anyone has some practical experience with anything like that would love to hear your ideas.

So I recently started helping out a guy who likes to tinker with Ebikes, with his batteries. I was an electronics tech in the navy, went through Nuke EM A School, which is roughly an AA Degree in Elec. Engineering, but that was a decade and a lot of beer ago. Anyways I've done a couple repairs for him, but now he's got this source for all these 4S 4 AH Batteries, all with their own little BMS In them. I've tested them and they work great, I've put some together and ran them on bikes and scooters. All great results. Thing is he wants me to build a battery for a Columbia ParCar Summit out of these things. It's normal battery is 8 225AH 6 Volt Lead acids. I'm admittedly a little over my head scaling up that big, My First game plan was to find out was much as possible about these battery packs, and how their internal BMS works (I've read a little about the various types, and what they do when they are still getting current thrown at them but they are fully charged. With these they shut down at 12 volts, and I cant get a reading with my multimeter even, but they charge up from there no problem. My Plan was to make it very modular, and have active cooling & lots of temperature sensors. Any help is appreciated

attached is the MSDS for the lipo cels
 
Much of the info needed is in the old thread. Go back to it.
 
Need to know the max voltage and amperage the controller will support. If it's more than 67V, then you can run 16s. If not, you'll be limited to 12s, which will lower top speed by about 5%.
 
I got several requests for details about the battery, and even after I Figured they were pouch lipo I was told the specific chemistry of the battery was needed, then after I go and dig up the info, *crickets* , unless my browser is playing tricks on me I'm not tracking any replies since I posted all the info
 
For the Hannebrink? I actually just found out its:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17683

12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition


at least it's labeled that from the best I can tell, [\
 
as far as the all I got is what the pdf says:

Programmable, solid state, 400 amp, pedal proportional control and regenerative braking with reduced
speed reverse, diagnostic LED and calibrator interface
 
markass530 said:
For the Hannebrink? I actually just found out its:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17683

12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition


at least it's labeled that from the best I can tell, [\
You can run anything up to 24s with this controller, although you might want to limit it to 20s (5 4s packs in series). Problem is you will need to parallel at least 6 of those 20s packs to get an amp output high enough for the controller because of the onboard bms of each 4s pack. That would give you a 24ah 74V pack which would give you lots of range.
 
markass530 said:
as far as the all I got is what the pdf says:

Programmable, solid state, 400 amp, pedal proportional control and regenerative braking with reduced
speed reverse, diagnostic LED and calibrator interface
Ok, for the nev, with 225ah 48V system, to be safe, you can run it with a 12s pack. Tricky part here is the 400A controller and 2C 4s packs. You will need a 12s50p pack to provide 400A. That's 150 4s packs wired 3 wide and 50 deep. That's 200ah at 44.4V if my math is right, but should give you almost twice the range as the original lead batteries. Good luck wiring that sucker up. You'll need some big cables and/or some big buss bars.
 
To my untrained eye, the MSDS seemed to indicate a LiCo cell.

I've only used lico intended for model aircraft and these don't require temperature monitoring because they just don't get warm (their internal resistance is very low). You might want to test one of your cells by wrapping it in insulation and discharging and charging it at a high rate?

As for building lico into a large pack, I have no idea. I've seen some people on here have built some big ebike/emotorcycle packs with lico, you might want to check them out for ideas.
 
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