Tonaro User group

Only recently bought a Zoco Xtreme (Tonaro Unicorn). I'm still getting it set-up the way I want it. I've replaced the stem and handlebars with some with a 31.8mm diameter mainly so that I could attach my lights. Today I've fitted it with some panniers and a bracket to hold an additional tail-light, bar-ends and a computer.

The 48V 10Ahr battery is adequate for what I want but I have a 13Ahr battery on-order which should be far better. The bike is seriously heavy but that with the battery assist that isn't an issue.

Overall the bike seems like it will do everything I want.
 
Hi Guys,

Just picked up an Aseako ALTO bike (Tonaro Compy) for like $50 today with a "blown gearbox" said the seller. She said it just went crunch one day when she was riding. I took it home and charged it up, sure enough it was definitely not working. When I apply the throttle, I can hear the motor spin but no movement of the cranks or chain. It sounds like a freely spinning motor in there with a slight ringing of some gear, but no engagement at all to move the bike. I recorded a Youtube video to describe my problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1SPcIgjVvA

I think from my experience with cars and some little research, it might be a damaged sprag clutch or something to do with the reducer?

I did try to pedal normally and yes the bike moves when you pedal normally as a normal bike. However one occasion out of the 5 times I jumped on to ride as a normal heavy bike, the cranks felt kinda stuck so I applied more pedal force and it went "crunch" and "crunch" twice. Wasn't the derailleur but came from the center pedal crank somewhere. Other than that, it normally free wheels and pedals like a normal bike.

I should also add that when I opened the pannier box up the rear, I saw some parts sent from the manufacturer but never installed. The package said "Motor pin".



What might my problem be from this visual assessment? I'll open the thing up over the weekend.

Thanks.
 
Here is a Video on my Dropbox
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ns41u3nb68mhjbt/remove%20chainwheel.AVI
 
rroland said:
Hi
Good Buy I wish i could find one?
No problems to fix an get the parts at reasonable cost.
You need to pull it apart and find out what is wrong
This will assist

Thanks for that info. :)

I pulled the motor apart and found this...

IMG_84181.jpg


The spline gear has come loose from the motor. There seems to be a roll pin looking thing holding it in but that's broken. I used a nail (in my finger) to drill through and remove the left over bits of the roll pin.
 
Today I ordered a new bike!! My old RMartin (Tonaro) has over 3000 miles and still running well but the battery is starting to lag. So, good time for a new bike. I purchased the Evelo Aurora 48 volt 500 watt bike!! Really looking forward to it, feels like Christmas!!! I'm really curious to see the difference between a 36 volt 250 watt and 48 volt 500 watt bike. The bike wasn't cheap but if it last as well as the Rmartin, it will be worth it.
http://www.evelo.com/electric-bicycles/aurora/

View attachment 1
 
My bike came today!! Like Christmas morning!!! It's the 48 volt 10 amp version and wow it moves!! Almost too much power if that's possible. The only alterations was removing the handle bars and installing swept back cruiser style bars. The bike is 48 volts but the battery is lighter and the bike the same wt as my old Rmartin (Tonaro) 36 volt bike. If this bikes last as long as my old bike--3000 miles, I'll be very satisfied.
http://www.evelo.com/evelo-difference/nuvinci-n360-drivetrain/
View attachment 3
Evelo bike.jpg

Update to my new Evelo bike. June 29th, bike left me stranded!! 3 miles from home the bike died!! Power panel flashed no power--despite battery freshly charged. I unplugged and plugged the battery to the bike, panel kept reading no power--flashed a few times then turned off. I pushed/rode the dead bike home. I emailed Evelo--they responded immediately. Referred to a bike shop in Boston. Last week I made the 6 hour round trip to Boston, dropped off the bike at the Evelo recommended bike shop. They tested the battery--no problem. Now they will replace the power meter. From the start, the power meter had a strange hot spot and shadow. It's a "king meter". Any suggestions?? Evelo has been great at responding to my emails but that doesn't fix a dead bike. Very disappointed!! It was new 3000 dollar bike--only a month old!! Vermont summers are painfully short, hate missing the best biking month. Any suggestions? My last "tonaro" bike was from RMartin--lasted me 3000 miles trouble free. Unfortunately I sold it, not thinking why do I need two bikes??
Evelo Hot spot.jpg
View attachment SW-LCD en.pdf
 
The bike's wt feels the same probably d/t the Nuvinci N360 hub, does add a few lbs but it's worth it. Extremely smooth shifting. The bike is 500 watts, 48 volt and 10 amps. The Instrument Panel is large, easy to read and programmable. I only wish it had more features like the date/time and temperature. But do like the USB port for your cell phone.
http://www.king-meter.com/upload/files/SW-LCD%20en.pdf
http://www.evelo.com/electric-bicycles/aurora/
Evelo bike May 30 2014.jpg
Bike Instruement Panel.jpg
 
Just wanted to ask for a relative of mine who needs help about a Tonaro bike they bought online. The history of the bike is unknown apart from the fact they bought it second hand at a pawnbroker with a fault. I just saw the bike today but it was quite dark outside so I didn't take note of any details of the condition etc.

From what I can see (and feel), yes the motor still works... it spins when throttle is applied. The pedal crank wheel on the outside kinda moves slowly [bike does not move with motor] or sometimes doesn't move at all but the motor is still spinning. In both cases, the bike cannot move under motor power... feels like it is slipping in there.

Anyway, from what I can tell it seems to be a reducer related problem and not a motor problem as it does work and the crank can sometimes spin slowly for a few half revolutions at its own accord. Upon some research, I think it might be the sprag clutch bearing assembly that is broken? I haven't opened it as I said it was dark and I've only taken a glimpse. What are the symptoms of a damaged sprag clutch bearing?

Thanks.
 
Sounds like electrical is ok
Mechanical has an issue
Drawing of the drive train
 

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georgefromvt said:
Today I ordered a new bike!! My old RMartin (Tonaro) has over 3000 miles and still running well but the battery is starting to lag.
View attachment 1
Hold on there; your battery is starting to lag after 3000 miles? My battery is good as new with nearly 14,000 miles on it. I no longer own my IGO URBAN which is the TONARO COMPY but I have a chinese bike by the Achiever Bikes company, the battery is an 8.8amp/hr. lithium ion and it shows no sign of slowing down. You must have had a defective battery with such a short life. Bill
 
WASYLBRYTAN said:
georgefromvt said:
Today I ordered a new bike!! My old RMartin (Tonaro) has over 3000 miles and still running well but the battery is starting to lag.
View attachment 3
Hold on there; your battery is starting to lag after 3000 miles? My battery is good as new with nearly 14,000 miles on it. I no longer own my IGO URBAN which is the TONARO COMPY but I have a chinese bike by the Achiever Bikes company, the battery is an 8.8amp/hr. lithium ion and it shows no sign of slowing down. You must have had a defective battery with such a short life. Bill
You may have a point but I ride my bikes hard. I'm over 200 lbs, ride in very hill Vermont and hit the throttle too frequently. Yes I usually go from a dead start with the throttle; after 10-15 miles the bike really lagged. The suspension was mushy and the bike flexed too much. And to be truthful, I really wanted another bike. Especially a 48 volt 500 watt bike!
[ATTACH type="full" alt="R10 Sept 2011 038.JPG
[attachment=0]Evelo Bike.jpg"]1[/ATTACH]
 

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Greetings rroland from a fellow Perth Tonarian!

I have had my Tonaro Bighit for two years, and have clocked up just over 12,000km on it. It started out as a 36v 10A Bighit with derailleurs, but morphed over time to a 48v 10A battery, Grinfineon 20A controller, controlled with a Cycle Analyst v3, with the motor feeding through a 52t / 17t combo to a Nuvinci N360. Rear spring has been replaced with an air shock, and Avid brakes instead of the Tektro's.

That's the short story, long story is here - http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1949728

The NuVinci is the best thing since sliced bread IMO, makes for very efficient power use - both leg and battery!
 
I have a two year old Igo Urban and need some advice. Control panel is labeled Tonaro with battery level, light switch and mode switch for three levels of assist. Wires coming out of the panel are red, blue, yellow, green, black and white. Bike seems to function normally except for headlight, tail Light does function. Question being since the white wire isn't connected what the heck is it supposed to do or control? Kind of hate to try and pry open panel to see if there is a visible connection point and break it. :?

Bike is a hand me down to my wife. Riding position was too hard on back so I got an Electra Townie with an Ezee kit. She won't let me upgrade her ride :evil: .
 
Hope this helps
Wiring diagram shows that it is a lock device
 

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This wiring diagram might be of assistance too, although it is modified to suit my Cycle Analyst and 3rd party controller.
The colour coding and explanation is all there, but there was no white wire on my original dash panel...

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s529/Hypanor/e-Bikes/Bighit_zps7f16cc44.png

There are various other Tonaro-related images in my photobucket which might be of assistance to anyone doing maintenance!

As a wild guess, I would say that your headlight problem is possibly the connector behind the grommet on the frame where the wires disappear. For reasons unknown, the yellow wire from the dash panel connects to the headlight / taillight connector and comes back out the front as red/black and out the back as blue/black (or red & blue paired / black if you have the more recent dual light tail light).

Maybe easier as a first check though to remove the headlight and undo the screw at the base to remove the cover. One of the wires may have come adrift in there, it wasn't the best of connections on mine.
 
georgefromvt said:
My bike came today!! Like Christmas morning!!! It's the 48 volt 10 amp version and wow it moves!! Almost too much power if that's possible. The only alterations was removing the handle bars and installing swept back cruiser style bars. The bike is 48 volts but the battery is lighter and the bike the same wt as my old Rmartin (Tonaro) 36 volt bike. If this bikes last as long as my old bike--3000 miles, I'll be very satisfied.
http://www.evelo.com/evelo-difference/nuvinci-n360-drivetrain/
View attachment 6
Evelo bike.jpg

Update to my new Evelo bike. My new bike left me stranded!! 3 miles from home the bike died!! Power panel flashed no power--despite freshly charged battery. I unplugged and plugged the battery to the bike numerous times, panel kept reading no power--flashed a few times then turned off. I pushed/rode the dead bike home. I emailed Evelo--they responded immediately. Referred to a bike shop in Boston. Last week I made the 6 hour round trip to Boston, dropped off the bike at the Evelo recommended bike shop. They tested the battery--no problem. Now they will replace the power meter. From the start, the power meter had a strange hot spot and shadow. It's a "king meter". Any suggestions?? Evelo has been great at responding to my emails but that doesn't fix a dead bike. Very disappointed!! It was new 3000 dollar bike--only a month old!! Vermont summers are painfully short, hate missing the best biking month. Any suggestions? My last "tonaro" bike was from RMartin--lasted me 3000 miles trouble free. Unfortunately I sold it, not thinking why do I need two bikes??
View attachment 2
View attachment 1
View attachment SW-LCD en.pdf
 
georgefromvt said:
georgefromvt said:
My bike came today!! Like Christmas morning!!! It's the 48 volt 10 amp version and wow it moves!! Almost too much power if that's possible. The only alterations was removing the handle bars and installing swept back cruiser style bars. The bike is 48 volts but the battery is lighter and the bike the same wt as my old Rmartin (Tonaro) 36 volt bike. If this bikes last as long as my old bike--3000 miles, I'll be very satisfied.
http://www.evelo.com/evelo-difference/nuvinci-n360-drivetrain/
View attachment 6
View attachment 5

Update to my new Evelo bike. My new bike left me stranded!! 3 miles from home the bike died!! Power panel flashed no power--despite freshly charged battery. I unplugged and plugged the battery to the bike numerous times, panel kept reading no power--flashed a few times then turned off. I pushed/rode the dead bike home. I emailed Evelo--they responded immediately. Referred to a bike shop in Boston. Last week I made the 6 hour round trip to Boston, dropped off the bike at the Evelo recommended bike shop. They tested the battery--no problem. Now they will replace the power meter. From the start, the power meter had a strange hot spot and shadow. It's a "king meter". Any suggestions?? Evelo has been great at responding to my emails but that doesn't fix a dead bike. Very disappointed!! It was new 3000 dollar bike--only a month old!! Vermont summers are painfully short, hate missing the best biking month. Any suggestions? My last "tonaro" bike was from RMartin--lasted me 3000 miles trouble free. Unfortunately I sold it, not thinking why do I need two bikes??
View attachment 2
View attachment 1

Hello George,
Did you get your bike fixed?
If so, what part(s) did they replace?
I also own an Evelo bike, so I'm interested in how it's working for you now!
Thanks!
 
Yes my bike was "repaired". It took almost three weeks. The Evelo recommended bike shop "MYBIKE" admitted to knowing nothing about Evelo bikes and don't even sell the brand. Also, there was virtually no communication between the bike staff. They said they replaced the power panel but it still had a shadow, hot spot, same odometer reading and settings from when I dropped it off. Evelo said they changed the controller but not according to the bike shop staff. I could have done the work myself and saved myself missed work and a 5 hour drive to Boston. Evelo mailed me a new controller and power panel. I changed the panel myself--now no hot spot and yes the Odometer reading is now zero. So I guess it wasn't changed? I knew something wasn't right when the bike staff thought the problem was fixed when they found a dead fuse. The bike failed when I was coasting down hill. There was no heavy load, the power panel read low battery power. Fuses are all or non, was it a short or a bad component? Fuses don't blow for no reason, so just replacing a blow fuse doesn't fix the problem. I will give Evelo credit for responding to my emails, they called a number of times and responded promptly even on weekends and evenings. The MYBIKE bike shop staff were friendly and I'm sure are experts on non electric bikes but admitted to knowing almost nothing about the Evelo brand. They suggested next time I purchase an EG brand bike. They also said if my bike fails again " demand a new bike".
Two weeks after the bike was "fixed" the headlight blew. But I can do without the headlight, it's anemic light wasn't effective anyway. Would I buy another Evelo bike? My last Tonaro was from Rmartin--it lasted over 3000 trouble free miles. This bike has been a big disappointment. A new 3000 dollar bike shouldn't develop problems less than a month old. Evelo did extend my warranty another 6 months and give me a 50 dollar Ebay gift certificate but I'm done with the Evelo brand.
http://www.mybike.com/products/oahu-500-ex
 
Good news if your motor packs up:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/central-motor/693-tonaro-central-motor.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/central-motor/694-tonaro-central-motor.html
 
For anyone interested, I swapped everything off my old 2+ year old Tonaro frame and transplanted it onto the current Aseako / Zoco frame (same bike, different name).
The swing arm pivot on the old frame was quite worn, so there was a lot of sideways movement in the back wheel (it's had a hard life).

Old frame at the top, new one below:
Frames_zpsda14d4fc.jpg


And the completed bike:
Finished_zps286a6d77.jpg


There is more detail here on Whirlpool
 
My bike came with a 48V 13amp-hr battery which is only just adequate. I am told that the biggest battery that will fit in the case is 14.5amp-hr what I really want is to increase my battery capacity up to around 20amp-hr.

Has anyone fitted larger than standard batteries to their Tonaro and how was it done?
 
Their is nothing stopping you from buying another battery pack and running them both parallel
or just one pack too destination and switch to the fresh pack for return ..
the only desision is how you want the asthetics
you could either build an tall batterypack or just mod the second pack to strap ontop of the pack thats mounted onto the bike that way you can either run dual pack or single pack when ever you please
as far as I know you just need to make an Y cable to link the two packs the cells should all balance out ?

I have the ZOCO extream 48v 500watt

it came with an 13s4p 48v pack 10 AH ( your lucky no such 13Ah beast where I am :S )

I was able to cram 80 18650 cells into the case
18mm wide 65mm long the case is 1300mm wide on the bottom and ULTRA tight sqeeze having cells butt to butt

my build is 16s5p and I am just waiting on speedict to release their hardware which with their BMS i can controll the charge / discharge voltages
currently its 60~67v ( the ZOCO 48v fully charged are 54v ) i am thinking 4.1v over-charge 3.7 over-discharge for my cell settings



pretty much the space you have to play with inside of the battery packs is

130mm wide
150mm long
90mm high
of cause their is a litte more room on the length side but width is VERY tight and the height can be modified by attaching the lid higher

I have my cells mounted
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--

with 5 layers and I have an aluminium band going around the case for the top to attach to which allows more layers to be expanded as I wish

how ever the safest way to mount these would be

|||||
|||||
or
||||
||||
||||

that leaves air / crush space
but less cells fit



personally when I get my speedict hardware I will build another battery box that also uses the ZOCO's controller area for battery cells and mount the controller further down near the seat post where the rear support frame is just empty space hopefully I can then have ~160 cells

i5qhra.jpg


pictures are of the 52 cell zoco battery

23jk5k8.jpg

4v1v2v.jpg
 
MasterCATZ,

Thanks for your reply. I'm currently thinking that an enlarged battery case might be the way to go.
 
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