Trek 3900 RC Build

[AussieJester]

The reason I want the throttelizer is for it's easy throttle setup and the watt meter (which is still not out).
I don't want to get a Cycle analyst due to the fact that it needs a huge ugly shunt.

I have attached a photo of the destroyed throttelizer, the quality seems decent (if you clean up the charred remains)
Do these no last very long after all?

I can't comment on real time useage compared to failure as mine never worked to start with cost 100 bucks no refund offered or apology i can recall, just an offer to repair it if i paid all the freight costs!! Blow that would of ended up costing me ~200 bucks by the time i got it back again, and no guarantee it would be any better than before, lets just say if it was bought on EBay seller would be getting negative feedback from me.

Matts setup allows for plug and play throttle setup, and get a Turnigy Meter for 25 bucks for monitoring if you don't want a CA
possibly? either way get something we want to see this machine running damnz it! haha

KiM

 

[knoxie]

The Shunt on the CA is small so small in fact it fitted inside Fechters throttle box? it depends on what you want, the Turnigy meter is a big meter for what it does, I have both but much prefer the watts up meter, its smaller and lighter and can be left connected with a few ma current drain, the Turnigy draws more and runs pretty warm under use.

More parts toasted you RC boys sure know how to burn money

The reason I want the throttelizer is for it's easy throttle setup and the watt meter (which is still not out).
I don't want to get a Cycle analyst due to the fact that it needs a huge ugly shunt.

I have attached a photo of the destroyed throttelizer, the quality seems decent (if you clean up the charred remains)
Do these no last very long after all?

 

[AussieJester]

The Shunt on the CA is small so small in fact it fitted inside Fechters throttle box? it depends on what you want, the Turnigy meter is a big meter for what it does, I have both but much prefer the watts up meter, its smaller and lighter and can be left connected with a few ma current drain, the Turnigy draws more and runs pretty warm under use.

I have a 100amp shunt here its bigger in length alone than Fechters box, and not suitable, i need over 200amp plus capable shunt ... where can you get a 200amp capable shunt small enough to fit in fechters box Knoxie? Actually...where can you get a 100amp capable shunt small enough too fit haha , Would love to hook my CA (Drain Brain Up) Also, he connected something incorrectly hence it burnt out, i'm sure he didn't do it just to waste money mate c'mon LoL

KiM

 

[liveforphysics]

Fetchers box uses a hall effect type current sensor rather than a shunt. They are compact and run cool. They aren't used in most controllers because the part costs a lot more than a $0.01 piece of shunt wire.

 

[AussieJester]

Fetchers box uses a hall effect type current sensor rather than a shunt. They are compact and run cool. They aren't used in most controllers because the part costs a lot more than a $0.01 piece of shunt wire.

OP is actually after a shunt for his CA Luke thats isn't enormous, he doesn't even have a Fechter box Knoxie was just making use of the box (he saw Deecs a week or so ago) as a comparison for size i think. Is thee a shunt Luke that will do 100-200amp that is like an inch long? This what the OP is after mate..and i would love one too if you know of any

KiM

 

[recumpence]

The drive unit will definitely hold up to a little 3210 but the other question umm... Matt you there?

Yup, I'm here.

My life is finally back to normal (somewhat). We had a death in the family (a couple actually) and a few other nightmares. But, life is back to normal.

I can ship you out another set of clamps. We just made another run of them.

Matt

 

[Nanoha]

I'm really sorry to hear that Matt

Regarding the clamps, I'll pay for shipping via express and when the other set arrives I'll send them back again.
Does this sound ok?

I asked at the post office again, they said that if your post office forgot to put an airmail sticker on the box, then
it will be sent via surface mail and it could take 3 months

 

[recumpence]

That may be possible. However, everything goes out airmail from the US postal service. You cannot even choose surface shipping anymore.

But, that does not mean there was not a similar issue happening.

Matt

 

[Nanoha]

Ok guys, as I was screwing down the battery terminals, I accidentally bridged both terminals with my spanner.
Needless to say I got my first arc weld.

Does anyone here seem to get streaks of bad luck while building their bikes as well? :?

 

[Whiplash]

Yikes!

 

[Nanoha]

Yo

I'm with Kim on this one, that just doesn't look right even if it is right?

hehee glad i am not the only one, at least put some sleeving over themz wires Nanoha preferable 3 or 4 layers or wrap a roll of insulation tape around to make it look like it can handle some herbs damn it!


KiM

Actually being thin has its advantages ie. when I get pulled over I can say "It's only a 150w motor, look at those 3 tiny wires!"

 

[Nanoha]

Found another problem, I think it's because the sprockets are not perfect which makes
the chain tension variable.
This wriggles the drive unit back and forth loosening the chain.
Also the belt seems to want to slide towards the inside of the pulley which eventually results in a bit of it coming
over the large pulley.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mic5xH4O2s


Any ideas?

 

[Miles]

Also the belt seems to want to slide towards the inside of the pulley which eventually results in a bit of it coming
over the large pulley.
Any ideas?

Alignment.... See pages T-13 and T-53, here: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=17607 Reversing the belt might help (or make it worse....)

 

[recumpence]

Its not an issue of the pulleys not being parralel. All you need to do is move the motor plate slightly out so the large pulley is closer to the face of the motor plate. Loosten the two pich screws for the motor plate (the screws that plich the plate to the bearing tube) and move the whole plate over toward the right a bit. That will make the belt track more toward the right side of the pulley.

Simple.

Matt

 

[Miles]

I guess I should have looked at the video Sorry, Matt

 

[Ypedal]

Nice !!!

I got my throttle box from Fechter, works awsome, i disabled the current limit ( pff.. who wants limits lol... )

as LFP said, secure those motor wires, you don't want them flexing, i kinda cringed the first time i saw mine and was like WTF ???... but rest assured, they do take 100 amps just fine. I soldered a lenght of silicone 10 gauge to mine and secured those to the frame, soldered to the HV controller from there.

At 2 to 3 kw continuous the motor will get well into 70+ celcius so watch your legs if you wear shorts !!!!.. :wink:

 

[Nanoha]

Thanks guys, I got the belt problems solved.
Regarding the current limiter, it's there to protect my battery instead of the ESC.

As for the chain, I'm currently considering some sort of spring loaded idler but have no idea where to mount one.
Does anyone else have problems with the chain?

 

[Ypedal]

oh hell yeah... i had to spring load everything ( 2nd, 3rd and 4th stages )

with a tight spot in the chain you risk warping your chain if you adjust it on a loose spot and throttle on.. once spring loaded everything rolls smoothly.. must do !

see :

http://www.ypedal.com/RC/RC2.htm

for pictures of 2 of them.. i need to start Page 3 on my RC bike lol..alot has changed since the above link ..

 

[Nanoha]

LOL ypedal, if only I had read your warning on the 2nd picture first, I feel your pain literally

I love the way you made an idler for the 3rd stage chain, I'll probably try hack up a derailleur.


Thanks for the inspiration!

 

[Nanoha]

Hi guys, I've decided to remove the post I made to offside the drive to the right side.
Does anyone knows how I can shift the drive sprocket to the right?
I was thinking of switching the silver part to the other side but I can't seem to get my head around the idea and
I don't want to take it all apart and then realize that it's not possible.

 

[Ypedal]

Flip the entire drive system over, it requires a different freewheel adapter however.

 

[Miles]

Hi guys, I've decided to remove the post I made to offside the drive to the right side.
Does anyone knows how I can shift the drive sprocket to the right?
I was thinking of switching the silver part to the other side but I can't seem to get my head around the idea and
I don't want to take it all apart and then realize that it's not possible.

Maybe Matt can supply you with a longer bearing tube?

 

[Nanoha]

Flip the entire drive system over, it requires a different freewheel adapter however.

Wouldn't it drive the left side then?

Hi guys, I've decided to remove the post I made to offside the drive to the right side.
Does anyone knows how I can shift the drive sprocket to the right?
I was thinking of switching the silver part to the other side but I can't seem to get my head around the idea and
I don't want to take it all apart and then realize that it's not possible.

Maybe Matt can supply you with a longer bearing tube?

I also would need a longer shaft + more expensive shipping fees, I was wondering if it was possible to quickly and cheaply do it.
Has anyone actually managed to drive the outside sprockets? If I drive the inner sprocket I don't get enough reduction.
I'm aiming for around 15mph in first gear.

 

[Miles]

You need to move it about 13mm? Move the tube across 5mm and the freewheel assembly 8mm on the axle? That will share the overhang on the bearings....

 

[Nanoha]

You need to move it about 13mm? Move the tube across 5mm and the freewheel assembly 8mm on the axle? That will share the overhang on the bearings....

I need around 30mm to drive the outside sprocket, that way I can shift the 2 inner sprockets.
Matt suggested I put a spacer in between the bearing and freewheel but I still think 30mm is pushing it.