twist throttle does nothing

[cejar21640]

So i have a thumb throttle that works fine. I bought a twist throttle both higo connectors thinking it would work straight. When i plug it in the lcd shows error 9 code and doesnt do anything but the old one back and wors fine. What could be the prob ? thanks.

 

[E-HP]

So i have a thumb throttle that works fine. I bought a twist throttle both higo connectors thinking it would work straight. When i plug it in the lcd shows error 9 code and doesnt do anything but the old one back and wors fine. What could be the prob ? thanks.

What is error code 9 on your lcd?

 

[cejar21640]

i dont know, i bought the bike off someone and it was a diy kit with no information on the controller or the battery. Is there a way i could check ? thanks

 

[amberwolf]

What markings are on the LCD, front and back, and what markings are on the controller (all sides)?

That will help us find out what the error code is.


Regarding the throttle, it's possible the new one is not wired the same way as the old, or there's a broken wire between the connector and the sensor inside it. Difficult to test without opening the throttle up and measuring a few things, so I'd wait until we verify the error code is indeed a throttle error, and which one, before doing that.


A much less likely possibility is that the new one is a potentiometer throttle and not a hall-based one (since the thumb throttle is probably hall-based). They can still be used but not directly; they need a couple of extra resistors added.

 

[cejar21640]

What markings are on the LCD, front and back, and what markings are on the controller (all sides)?

That will help us find out what the error code is.


Regarding the throttle, it's possible the new one is not wired the same way as the old, or there's a broken wire between the connector and the sensor inside it. Difficult to test without opening the throttle up and measuring a few things, so I'd wait until we verify the error code is indeed a throttle error, and which one, before doing that.


A much less likely possibility is that the new one is a potentiometer throttle and not a hall-based one (since the thumb throttle is probably hall-based). They can still be used but not directly; they need a couple of extra resistors added.

Hi, Thanks for the response. The bike isnt with me right now but afterwards i could take some images. The lcd itself has 4 grey buttons power, set, up, and down and has a white backlight. It also has 6 levels of speed.

I was under the assumption that as long as the connections are both (higo ?) the same then it should work so i only find the very most suitable connection right down to the colour and pins. The throttle error only comes up once the new throttle has been attached. Once the old thumb throttle is put back on, the error doesnt come and thumb throttle works fine.

As for it being a hall sensor, i have opened it up very quickly and it does indeed have magnets either side (2 little magnets within each holes opposite of each other). Is that classed as a hall sensor ?

 

[amberwolf]

. The lcd itself has 4 grey buttons power, set, up, and down and has a white backlight. It also has 6 levels of speed.

Those are common to any number of systems, unfortunately.

I was under the assumption that as long as the connections are both (higo ?) the same then it should work so i only find the very most suitable connection right down to the colour and pins.

That should be the case, but unfortunately not everybody does things correctly or to the "standard". (there are not actually any true standards in ebike stuff, even though there are a few things that have become very common and are almost like a standard...but no guarantee that any particular device will follow it).

It could be as simple as there being a broken wire in the throttle's cable. Or it could be an accidental miswire from the factory.

The throttle error only comes up once the new throttle has been attached. Once the old thumb throttle is put back on, the error doesnt come and thumb throttle works fine.

That makes it very likely that the throttle is indeed the problem; knowing what the specific error is (if the code tells us, it might not) will help figure out why.

As for it being a hall sensor, i have opened it up very quickly and it does indeed have magnets either side (2 little magnets within each holes opposite of each other). Is that classed as a hall sensor ?

Yes, the sensor will be on the part that doesnt' move, it's very tiny.

Be careful with the spring and magnets, if they get dislodged or altered, it's difficult to get them back where they should be in the correct angles, etc., and it won't work right if they're not the same as designed. It is even possible that the magnets were not installed correctly to start with, and are causing the wrong output at power on, triggering the controller error.

 

[cejar21640]

. The lcd itself has 4 grey buttons power, set, up, and down and has a white backlight. It also has 6 levels of speed.

Those are common to any number of systems, unfortunately.

I was under the assumption that as long as the connections are both (higo ?) the same then it should work so i only find the very most suitable connection right down to the colour and pins.

That should be the case, but unfortunately not everybody does things correctly or to the "standard". (there are not actually any true standards in ebike stuff, even though there are a few things that have become very common and are almost like a standard...but no guarantee that any particular device will follow it).

It could be as simple as there being a broken wire in the throttle's cable. Or it could be an accidental miswire from the factory.

The throttle error only comes up once the new throttle has been attached. Once the old thumb throttle is put back on, the error doesnt come and thumb throttle works fine.

That makes it very likely that the throttle is indeed the problem; knowing what the specific error is (if the code tells us, it might not) will help figure out why.

As for it being a hall sensor, i have opened it up very quickly and it does indeed have magnets either side (2 little magnets within each holes opposite of each other). Is that classed as a hall sensor ?

Yes, the sensor will be on the part that doesnt' move, it's very tiny.

Be careful with the spring and magnets, if they get dislodged or altered, it's difficult to get them back where they should be in the correct angles, etc., and it won't work right if they're not the same as designed. It is even possible that the magnets were not installed correctly to start with, and are causing the wrong output at power on, triggering the controller error.

Many thanks for the response. What im going to do is wait for a bud of mine to come down with his throttle and put that on see if it works. But lets say the wires are reversed, how could i found out which wires are the same. And is it probable i could do this with a multi meter without splicing the wires. The reason why im hesitant in splicing the wires is that i would like to retain the waterproof properties of the connectors. Many thanks.

 

[amberwolf]

Many thanks for the response. What im going to do is wait for a bud of mine to come down with his throttle and put that on see if it works. But lets say the wires are reversed, how could i found out which wires are the same. And is it probable i could do this with a multi meter without splicing the wires. The reason why im hesitant in splicing the wires is that i would like to retain the waterproof properties of the connectors. Many thanks.

Yes, you can test without cutting into the cable, but you have to open the throttle body enough to touch one of the meter probes to the actual sensor leads inside it,

To just test for which wire is which, you'll need to be able to see which way the hall sensor is facing, so the order of pins can be determined. (the wire colors aren't enough because we suspect a miswire). If you can see the marking, it's on the bevelled side, so the pictures below show the order as it would be there. If you can't, you're probably looking at the flat side, and the order is reversed:




This diagram has the Bafang BBSHD throttle connection in the lower left corner, as marked on the male (pins sticking out). If your throttle uses this style, then it uses the female connector (holes for the pins) and then the red and black 6 and 8 wires are mirror-imaged from the picture.
https://custom-ebike.com/products/higo-mini-c-3-pin

I don't know what wiring order your system actually uses, but that's a common one.

The meter leads may not fit in the holes so you may have to use a straight-pin or needle to go into the pin and touch the contact, then touch the meter lead to that. If you have alligator clips on at least one meter lead, it will help you do this test with less hands.

If your system is different, you would need to open your old throttle to verify which wire from each sensor pin goes to which pin on it's connector, unless you can tell us which system it is and we can find a diagram to show what it should be.


Have paper and a pencil or pen handy. Draw a circle with three dots in it that looks like your throttle connector, as it looks facing you, along with a bump on the circle to represent the little plastic key mark. Draw a square with three lines off the bottom to represent the sensor as if it were facing you with the bevelled side (even if it's not).

Set the multimeter to 200ohms or continuity. Put the black lead on the first pin of the connector. Put the red lead on the pin of the sensor that equals the leftmost one of the bevelled side with the pins pointing down (like in the diagrams). You should get either a very low number (or beep), or OL on the screen. IF it's OL, that means no connection; the other two mean that's the connector pin that is connected to the sensor pin your'e measuring now.

If you get OL, move the red lead to the next sensor pin, and repeat again if needed for the last pin. Do the set of tests again for each of the connector pins to each of the sensor pins.

Each time you get a beep or low reading, draw yourself a line from the pin on the connector you drew to the pin you measured the low reading on, so now you know which connector pin is connected to which sensor pin.

If that matches the Bafang BBS diagram I posted above, then the connections are probably correct, and further testing as noted below will be needed (assuming your system uses the standard connection pinout). If it doesn't match, tehn you would need to alter the wiring to match it; this is delicate work inside the throttle (the leads break off the sensor quite easily, and heat can damage it).


For certain tests, like verifying the signal is valid and the right voltage range (which you probably wont' have to do), you'd also need to do this while also keeping it assembled enough to rotate normally and keep the magnets where they are designed to be (or else you don't get normal readings).

If that's not possible, you may have to attach an extra set of wires to the sensor, or the wires inside the throttle body before they reach teh sensor, to then touch the meter lead to. We'll worry about that after verifying the wiring.

 

[cejar21640]

Many thanks for the response. What im going to do is wait for a bud of mine to come down with his throttle and put that on see if it works. But lets say the wires are reversed, how could i found out which wires are the same. And is it probable i could do this with a multi meter without splicing the wires. The reason why im hesitant in splicing the wires is that i would like to retain the waterproof properties of the connectors. Many thanks.

Yes, you can test without cutting into the cable, but you have to open the throttle body enough to touch one of the meter probes to the actual sensor leads inside it,

To just test for which wire is which, you'll need to be able to see which way the hall sensor is facing, so the order of pins can be determined. (the wire colors aren't enough because we suspect a miswire). If you can see the marking, it's on the bevelled side, so the pictures below show the order as it would be there. If you can't, you're probably looking at the flat side, and the order is reversed:

A3144-Hall-effect-Sensor-Pinout[1].jpg
FxWvw5r[1].jpg

This diagram has the Bafang BBSHD throttle connection in the lower left corner, as marked on the male (pins sticking out). If your throttle uses this style, then it uses the female connector (holes for the pins) and then the red and black 6 and 8 wires are mirror-imaged from the picture.
https://custom-ebike.com/products/higo-mini-c-3-pin
image_14922v_1024x1024[1].jpg
I don't know what wiring order your system actually uses, but that's a common one.

The meter leads may not fit in the holes so you may have to use a straight-pin or needle to go into the pin and touch the contact, then touch the meter lead to that. If you have alligator clips on at least one meter lead, it will help you do this test with less hands.

If your system is different, you would need to open your old throttle to verify which wire from each sensor pin goes to which pin on it's connector, unless you can tell us which system it is and we can find a diagram to show what it should be.


Have paper and a pencil or pen handy. Draw a circle with three dots in it that looks like your throttle connector, as it looks facing you, along with a bump on the circle to represent the little plastic key mark. Draw a square with three lines off the bottom to represent the sensor as if it were facing you with the bevelled side (even if it's not).

Set the multimeter to 200ohms or continuity. Put the black lead on the first pin of the connector. Put the red lead on the pin of the sensor that equals the leftmost one of the bevelled side with the pins pointing down (like in the diagrams). You should get either a very low number (or beep), or OL on the screen. IF it's OL, that means no connection; the other two mean that's the connector pin that is connected to the sensor pin your'e measuring now.

If you get OL, move the red lead to the next sensor pin, and repeat again if needed for the last pin. Do the set of tests again for each of the connector pins to each of the sensor pins.

Each time you get a beep or low reading, draw yourself a line from the pin on the connector you drew to the pin you measured the low reading on, so now you know which connector pin is connected to which sensor pin.

If that matches the Bafang BBS diagram I posted above, then the connections are probably correct, and further testing as noted below will be needed (assuming your system uses the standard connection pinout). If it doesn't match, tehn you would need to alter the wiring to match it; this is delicate work inside the throttle (the leads break off the sensor quite easily, and heat can damage it).


For certain tests, like verifying the signal is valid and the right voltage range (which you probably wont' have to do), you'd also need to do this while also keeping it assembled enough to rotate normally and keep the magnets where they are designed to be (or else you don't get normal readings).

If that's not possible, you may have to attach an extra set of wires to the sensor, or the wires inside the throttle body before they reach teh sensor, to then touch the meter lead to. We'll worry about that after verifying the wiring.

Hi, many thanks for the very detailed response. I have yet to carry out the multi meter test but do hope it will provide me with a working throttle. However, if i may post a few images of the parts of my ebike could you any way identify which make lcd or make of battery i have so that i could get a new battery and such ? I very much appreciate all the replies you have given in such an articulate and concise manner. Many thanks.

 

[E-HP]

However, if i may post a few images of the parts of my ebike could you any way identify which make lcd or make of battery i have so that i could get a new battery and such?

Bafang C300 ?

 

[amberwolf]

However, if i may post a few images of the parts of my ebike could you any way identify which make lcd or make of battery i have so that i could get a new battery and such ?

The LCD appearance itself isn't necessarily different enough to tell me which one it might be. It resembles many. If it has no names or numbers on it anywhere, then you will need to trace it's wiring (usually one main cable) to the controller itself, which should have a label on it. Most controllers look very similar as well; only a very few brands tend to have a distinctive appearance different enough from others to identify it, but pictures of it may help as well (especially if they include the label(s)).

ATM, the closest thing I can remember seeing to the LCD you have is one on an old 2016-ish Pedego bike that uses an old Dapu system. None of their current models look like that, though. I suspect yours is an older version than that, if it is a Dapu, because the faceplate and button design looks more "primitive". But it could be just a passing resemblance, and not a Dapu.

But I suppose you can check some old Pedego manuals and see if any look like yours and have error codes listed.

One example here that doesn't list error codes but does have a picture of the "similar" LCD in the Pedal Assist Mode section.
https://pedegoelectricbikes.ca/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Pedego-Owners-Manual.pdf

This search for Pedego Error Codes
https://www.google.com/search?q=Pedego+error+codes
finds a few, but I don't know that any of them will match yours, even if it's the same kind of kit.

This is a search for Dapu error codes, if it helps.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Dapu+error+codes

I very much appreciate all the replies you have given in such an articulate and concise manner.

You're welcome; I like to help where I can, when I have time; sometimes I learn things too. Right now I have a more time than usual (out of work).